Suspension refresh/upgrade planning/documenting thread
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Suspension refresh/upgrade planning/documenting thread
Hey all, I'd like to seek some input for my upcoming suspension refresh/upgrade plans. First this car is completely a fun, fair weather toy. I may take it to work once in a while, but its not my daily driver. At this point I don't have any plans to track it. I have many years of wheel to wheel racing experience under my belt, and have successfully kept my distance from that addiction. My goals are to make the car feel as connected to the road with direct steering input as possible. I'm not very concerned with NVH. Here are my tentative plans, please feel free to provide input. FYI I realize a lot of this is overkill for a street car.
Steering:
- Bushings/ rack mount reinforcement
- ER bump steer tie rods
Sway bars:
- Was going to leave stock sways in place.
- Adjustable drop links
Coilovers:
PSS10
Camber plates (would like some input here):
Elephant racing
ERP
Ground Control (These look interesting as they have built in caster adjustment. I don't see that many folks are using them here)
Front bushings, from my assessment, the ball joint boots are worn and the bushings are worn as well, I can see some cracking and there is more play than there should be when tested with the pry bar
- New ball joints
- Elephant racing monoballs (I like that these are weathersealed)
Rear bushings/arms, Rear control arm monoball and ball joints seem ok on inspection. I'll have to take it all apart to know for sure:
This is the section where I have less clarity.
Option 1
- RS bushings all around
- Rennline or other adjustable toe link with lockout plate
Option 2:
- ER Monoballs all around
- Adjustable toe link with lockout
Option 3
- Monoball for Lower control arm
- Adjustable camber, KT and toe link
Rear carrier. Hard to know the condition of the rubber without pulling it all apart.
- Solid vs rs mount.
Steering:
- Bushings/ rack mount reinforcement
- ER bump steer tie rods
Sway bars:
- Was going to leave stock sways in place.
- Adjustable drop links
Coilovers:
PSS10
Camber plates (would like some input here):
Elephant racing
ERP
Ground Control (These look interesting as they have built in caster adjustment. I don't see that many folks are using them here)
Front bushings, from my assessment, the ball joint boots are worn and the bushings are worn as well, I can see some cracking and there is more play than there should be when tested with the pry bar
- New ball joints
- Elephant racing monoballs (I like that these are weathersealed)
Rear bushings/arms, Rear control arm monoball and ball joints seem ok on inspection. I'll have to take it all apart to know for sure:
This is the section where I have less clarity.
Option 1
- RS bushings all around
- Rennline or other adjustable toe link with lockout plate
Option 2:
- ER Monoballs all around
- Adjustable toe link with lockout
Option 3
- Monoball for Lower control arm
- Adjustable camber, KT and toe link
Rear carrier. Hard to know the condition of the rubber without pulling it all apart.
- Solid vs rs mount.
#2
Hey all, I'd like to seek some input for my upcoming suspension refresh/upgrade plans. First this car is completely a fun, fair weather toy. I may take it to work once in a while, but its not my daily driver. At this point I don't have any plans to track it. I have many years of wheel to wheel racing experience under my belt, and have successfully kept my distance from that addiction. My goals are to make the car feel as connected to the road with direct steering input as possible. I'm not very concerned with NVH. Here are my tentative plans, please feel free to provide input. FYI I realize a lot of this is overkill for a street car.
Steering:
- Bushings/ rack mount reinforcement
- ER bump steer tie rods
Sway bars:
- Was going to leave stock sways in place.
- Adjustable drop links
Coilovers:
PSS10
Camber plates (would like some input here):
Elephant racing
ERP
Ground Control (These look interesting as they have built in caster adjustment. I don't see that many folks are using them here)
Front bushings, from my assessment, the ball joint boots are worn and the bushings are worn as well, I can see some cracking and there is more play than there should be when tested with the pry bar
- New ball joints
- Elephant racing monoballs (I like that these are weathersealed)
Rear bushings/arms, Rear control arm monoball and ball joints seem ok on inspection. I'll have to take it all apart to know for sure:
This is the section where I have less clarity.
Option 1
- RS bushings all around
- Rennline or other adjustable toe link with lockout plate
Option 2:
- ER Monoballs all around
- Adjustable toe link with lockout
Option 3
- Monoball for Lower control arm
- Adjustable camber, KT and toe link
Rear carrier. Hard to know the condition of the rubber without pulling it all apart.
- Solid vs rs mount.
Steering:
- Bushings/ rack mount reinforcement
- ER bump steer tie rods
Sway bars:
- Was going to leave stock sways in place.
- Adjustable drop links
Coilovers:
PSS10
Camber plates (would like some input here):
Elephant racing
ERP
Ground Control (These look interesting as they have built in caster adjustment. I don't see that many folks are using them here)
Front bushings, from my assessment, the ball joint boots are worn and the bushings are worn as well, I can see some cracking and there is more play than there should be when tested with the pry bar
- New ball joints
- Elephant racing monoballs (I like that these are weathersealed)
Rear bushings/arms, Rear control arm monoball and ball joints seem ok on inspection. I'll have to take it all apart to know for sure:
This is the section where I have less clarity.
Option 1
- RS bushings all around
- Rennline or other adjustable toe link with lockout plate
Option 2:
- ER Monoballs all around
- Adjustable toe link with lockout
Option 3
- Monoball for Lower control arm
- Adjustable camber, KT and toe link
Rear carrier. Hard to know the condition of the rubber without pulling it all apart.
- Solid vs rs mount.
add 8.5ET54 & 10ET65 x18 wheels and 225/40 //265/35 to 245/35//285/30 tires
set it up low
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rgupta250 (09-06-2020)
#3
Rennlist Member
Timely post wallyman, as I am going under-take the same project. I am constantly on Elephant Racing's site configuring and re-configuring a package to get it straight in my head what I want.
Bill confirmed my thoughts about the wheel carriers also.
Bill confirmed my thoughts about the wheel carriers also.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Any thoughts on how to handle the rear bushings/arms? Worth it to go all adjustable with a low ride height?
#5
round one was RS wheel carriers, Sport rubber bushes or RS arms, Tarret toe arm w/ locks, thi was a really great combination but the rear would nor hold alignment on the track, specifically WGI, I think that hitting the turtles was too much for the eccentrics.
RS wheel carriers and RSR tierods
RS sways
RS rear A arms and RS KT arms
Solid side mounts
Mode front camber plates
Elephant Sport rubber bushes for front A arm
TArret toe arms w/ locks, Cup shocks custom digressive revalve, 8.5 & 10 wheels
Mode front Rennline rear shock mounts
Extra locks on sway bar mounts, 600/750# springs
How it sat, w/ the street wheels
On track
The following users liked this post:
LimeyBoy (06-29-2020)
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#10
Rennlist Member
As for your question the h&r setup is a bilstein kit rebadged with their springs and valving...
For my subjective view, I like the pss10s as you can adjust them up and down. I keep them on moderate setting for everyday driving and crank them up on the de events. I am at RS ride height. I had some track oriented bilsteins and they were too stiff for my streets... Maybe ok where the roads are better in other parts of the country or needed if you are running really low like cup height, which the car was setup for before.
#11
Three Wheelin'
Good advice above from our resident expert BillV. I did the option 1 he described above along with pss10s and thicker m030 anti roll bars. I had 100k miles and the bushings in the front failed and the back were starting to. I daily my car as well as take it to de/ax events when I can and good compromise for a fun car but not too rough as a daily. Really transformed the car and you will notice a difference for each component: shocks, anti roll bars, and bushings/control arms. They work as a system and when one is not right you can feel it.
As for your question the h&r setup is a bilstein kit rebadged with their springs and valving...
For my subjective view, I like the pss10s as you can adjust them up and down. I keep them on moderate setting for everyday driving and crank them up on the de events. I am at RS ride height. I had some track oriented bilsteins and they were too stiff for my streets... Maybe ok where the roads are better in other parts of the country or needed if you are running really low like cup height, which the car was setup for before.
As for your question the h&r setup is a bilstein kit rebadged with their springs and valving...
For my subjective view, I like the pss10s as you can adjust them up and down. I keep them on moderate setting for everyday driving and crank them up on the de events. I am at RS ride height. I had some track oriented bilsteins and they were too stiff for my streets... Maybe ok where the roads are better in other parts of the country or needed if you are running really low like cup height, which the car was setup for before.
#13
Rennlist Member
I did it 2x
round one was RS wheel carriers, Sport rubber bushes or RS arms, Tarret toe arm w/ locks, thi was a really great combination but the rear would nor hold alignment on the track, specifically WGI, I think that hitting the turtles was too much for the eccentrics.
RS wheel carriers and RSR tierods
RS sways
RS rear A arms and RS KT arms
Solid side mounts
Mode front camber plates
Elephant Sport rubber bushes for front A arm
TArret toe arms w/ locks, Cup shocks custom digressive revalve, 8.5 & 10 wheels
Mode front Rennline rear shock mounts
Extra locks on sway bar mounts, 600/750# springs
How it sat, w/ the street wheels
On track
round one was RS wheel carriers, Sport rubber bushes or RS arms, Tarret toe arm w/ locks, thi was a really great combination but the rear would nor hold alignment on the track, specifically WGI, I think that hitting the turtles was too much for the eccentrics.
RS wheel carriers and RSR tierods
RS sways
RS rear A arms and RS KT arms
Solid side mounts
Mode front camber plates
Elephant Sport rubber bushes for front A arm
TArret toe arms w/ locks, Cup shocks custom digressive revalve, 8.5 & 10 wheels
Mode front Rennline rear shock mounts
Extra locks on sway bar mounts, 600/750# springs
How it sat, w/ the street wheels
On track
I have 3 question : where is still possible to buy for a decent price the RSR tie rods, did you install the tilt kit as well and in the picture with M 003 Aerokit, which tires are you using?
#15
Rennlist Member
Thank you Kan: Yes, but then I need the outer side to work with the right angle with the RS wheel carrier.
I am asking not just for the yellow project, but also for the other 993 that now is running with standard tie roads, which is something not just ugly to see, I suppose, but most of all, inefficient.
Few months ago I contacted a company here in Italy that don't know how much time ago was producing the standard and the RS tie rods and selling them for something like a fourth of what is priced right now.
these parts are so crazy expensive that probably it would be way cheaper to CNC cut them from solid steel or maybe make a group buy and see what this company would answer to a 1000 pieces order.
I am asking not just for the yellow project, but also for the other 993 that now is running with standard tie roads, which is something not just ugly to see, I suppose, but most of all, inefficient.
Few months ago I contacted a company here in Italy that don't know how much time ago was producing the standard and the RS tie rods and selling them for something like a fourth of what is priced right now.
these parts are so crazy expensive that probably it would be way cheaper to CNC cut them from solid steel or maybe make a group buy and see what this company would answer to a 1000 pieces order.