autobonrun

96 993 C4S M030 suspension

This week I noticed a clunking noise from the right front when I backed to the bottom of my driveway. I removed the wheel to find the inside covered with grease and this arm pulled out. On closer inspection I can see part of the bolt still in the hole. I haven’t hit anything and haven’t struck any large potholes.

What replacement part do I need? Any suggestions how to remove the sheared off bolt? I’ve attached some photos.

Thanks.

Bill Verburg

That's your roll bar connector, gonna be tough to get the broken end out of the wheel carrier

autobonrun

Thanks Bill. I know that end is going to be difficult. I’ll give it a try myself and take it in if I can’t.

autobonrun

I took a closer look at the connection, trying to map out the repair process . It appears when the sway bar connection failed it also contacted the axle boot and ripped it. That was the source of all the grease inside the rim. I fear the joint may be contaminated so I may just replace the entire axle. I’ve replaced the axle on my SC but have never tried the front on a AWD car. These are 25 year old parts so I should probably just buy a new axle. Is there anything specific to watch out for on AWD front axle replacement?

MarinS4

There’s a good opportunity to make one hell of a mess with that repair. Since the wheel carrier is softer than the broken stud anytime the drill bit wanders it will easily chew through it.

Do yourself a favor and remove the wheel carrier and use a drill press and clamp carrier down. If you’re not comfortable with that pay a local machinist to do it for you.

budge96

That is a strange bit of damage ...as prior poster suggested removal of the upright and someone skilled with drilling out broken stud i.e. a machinist could make quick work of it where try as you might it could result in damage to the carrier .
you can find them used and if repair is difficult to achieve that may be an easier option...Bert

morsini

I’m going to be putting up for sale one used and one brand new set of swaybar connections. Not sure, yet if they’ll help, but I can probably save you some money.

autobonrun

I agree and will take this advice. There’s not even space to line up a drill to start a pilot hole to remove the stud. Those dissimilar metals makes the decision firm.

autobonrun

Thanks for the offer. I’ll keep it in mind. However if I have a mechanic do all the work they will probably want to provide the parts. I’ll check.

samurai_k

Not sure how handy you are but if worse comes to worse you can just replace the carrier. Loosen the front axle nut with an impact wrench, remove the brake caliper, remove the few bolts that hold the carrier, remove the tie rod end, separate the carrier from the front suspension arm, and the carrier will come right out. Some sockets, breaker maybe, and a cheapo harbor freight tie rod separator is all the tools you need. Then you can decide to drill that broken bolt out or just get a new one.

autobonrun

Thanks for describing the process. I’m going to give it some thought. I’m fairly handy with tools so it’s an option.

95_993

If you take the carrier off yourself, you may find a shop with an EDM bolt/tap removal near you.

paranoidandroid

If you've done the SC then its basically same. You may have to loosen the bolts around the control arm and fully detach the anti-roll bar to get it out but its easy. Looking at the pics..we should all give thanks to the Porsche engineers for protecting the front brake lines! You could have been looking at a nicked brake line too.

autobonrun

Thanks. I’ve been letting it sit while I’m on vacation but will get it fixed soon.

autobonrun

Do know what the torque spec is on the axle nut? Sounds like it’s pretty high.