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Suspension upgrades... mild to wild (where to start)

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Old 04-15-2024, 08:52 AM
  #76  
boomboomthump
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They need to be installed like this...




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Coleman (04-15-2024)
Old 04-15-2024, 10:53 AM
  #77  
ch3tman
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Regarding your comments in a recent thread:

Originally Posted by boomboomthump
I've been chasing my tail trying to order the 993RS versions from KW.
Originally Posted by boomboomthump
Thinking about moving to the RS-specific kit from KW (shorter bodies + longer threaded shaft) since my build now has full RS geometry (RS uprights, etc) and ride height.
Are there any other differences between shorter bodies + longer threaded shaft?

Also, can you share the KW part numbers for the RS-specific kit please ? DIdn't realise it existed, unless you are referring to what they call the 'KWv3 Clubsport'? It's interesting they make a "RS-specific" solution given the RS pre-dates their v3, and that the RS is a limited production model.

Last edited by ch3tman; 04-15-2024 at 10:54 AM.
Old 04-15-2024, 12:05 PM
  #78  
Coleman
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ERP is making a set as well, and considering ERP's reputation, and BBI's reputation, I would definitely be buying the ERP.. Or the factory, GT2's ..
Old 04-15-2024, 12:27 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by ch3tman
Regarding your comments in a recent thread:




Are there any other differences between shorter bodies + longer threaded shaft?

Also, can you share the KW part numbers for the RS-specific kit please ? DIdn't realise it existed, unless you are referring to what they call the 'KWv3 Clubsport'? It's interesting they make a "RS-specific" solution given the RS pre-dates their v3, and that the RS is a limited production model.


Not Clubsports, they are RS-specific V3's. It is PN: 35271020 on their Euro site. [Link] [also link to instructions]

1) Both front/rear struts are different part numbers as they have shorter bodies to contend with the lower ride height. If you're running standard V3 coilovers at RS height, you're too close to bottoming out/riding on the bump stops, so the shorter body compensates for that.

2) The shouldered/threaded portion at the top of the shaft is longer, which allows for the thread to sufficiently pass through the spherical bearings in the RS top mounts (and aftermarket camber plates which use RS style top mounts + spherical bearings). There are aftermarket nuts available which provide more thread engagement via a stepped shoulder that fits inside the center of the bearing but there is no way to hold the shaft and torque the nut to spec. Common practice to just zap it "good & tight" with an impact gun.

3) The spring rates are the same as standard C2/C2S kit but no clue about dampening characteristics. I'd imagine there are some internal differences in the valving/oil to deal with the shorter bodies but given the adjustability of compression/rebound, this is likely irrelevant.

4) I'd imagine (not confirmed) that since they are designed for an RS specifically, that the mounting tab for the rear sway bar link is in the correct location and doesn't require fabricating an extension when using RS sway bars/links.



In my case, since I'm running RS uprights, RS ride height and everything else RS when it comes to suspension, it doesn't make sense to run coilovers designed for a non-RS.








Last edited by boomboomthump; 04-15-2024 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 04-15-2024, 01:05 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by boomboomthump
Looks like your front control arms are mixed up left to right?

The ball joint is supposed to mount on the underside of the control arm, not the top. So that ball joint is mounted upside down.
Originally Posted by boomboomthump
They need to be installed like this...



control arms are upside down in the pics above. Trust me they’re on correctly.




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Old 04-15-2024, 02:26 PM
  #81  
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Glad to see they were fixed when mounted to the car. The pic you first posted was very clear the ball joints were mounted upside down.




Last edited by boomboomthump; 04-15-2024 at 04:05 PM.
Old 04-15-2024, 06:55 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by boomboomthump
They need to be installed like this...



BBi started mounting them on the top, it's the 993 equivalent of raising the spindle on a 911, don't think it's necessary w/ the RS or BBi wheel carriers.
Old 04-15-2024, 07:06 PM
  #83  
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This came up recently in another thread where apparently some 964 folks have done this. Scratching my head though...

How would it raise the spindle? The wheel carrier/hub are fixed to the wheel. The centerline through the hub is a constant measurement to the ground. The ball joint is attached to the carrier, so the ball joint to ground measurement is also constant, no?

The only thing I believe that would accomplish is changing the angle of the control arm (putting it more in harms way relative to road obstacles) and make the ball joint angle more severe.


A quick simplified drawing. Perhaps I need more coffee. Or perhaps I'm still too aggravated with my tax bill due to the IRS today to give this more thought.



Old 04-15-2024, 07:35 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by boomboomthump
Not Clubsports, they are RS-specific V3's. It is PN: 35271020 on their Euro site. [[url=https://www.kwsuspensions.net/catalog/product/view/id/21908/category/2/?c_make=92&c_model=160&c_car=16034&ag=&pgs=160]Link] [also [url=https://docs.kwsuspension.de/ea-KWGFwEA-h68671020.pdf]link to instructions]

1) Both front/rear struts are different part numbers as they have shorter bodies to contend with the lower ride height. If you're running standard V3 coilovers at RS height, you're too close to bottoming out/riding on the bump stops, so the shorter body compensates for that.

2) The shouldered/threaded portion at the top of the shaft is longer, which allows for the thread to sufficiently pass through the spherical bearings in the RS top mounts (and aftermarket camber plates which use RS style top mounts + spherical bearings). There are aftermarket nuts available which provide more thread engagement via a stepped shoulder that fits inside the center of the bearing but there is no way to hold the shaft and torque the nut to spec. Common practice to just zap it "good & tight" with an impact gun.

3) The spring rates are the same as standard C2/C2S kit but no clue about dampening characteristics. I'd imagine there are some internal differences in the valving/oil to deal with the shorter bodies but given the adjustability of compression/rebound, this is likely irrelevant.

4) I'd imagine (not confirmed) that since they are designed for an RS specifically, that the mounting tab for the rear sway bar link is in the correct location and doesn't require fabricating an extension when using RS sway bars/links.

In my case, since I'm running RS uprights, RS ride height and everything else RS when it comes to suspension, it doesn't make sense to run coilovers designed for a non-RS.
Thanks for the comprehensive reply - all great info! They'll compliment your RS setup brilliantly.
That said, considering the quality and extensiveness of your project, I'd have bet on you going for (or at least considering) the likes of MCS or EXE-TC (what Tuthill may have preferred?) or TracTive (what Tuthill may now prefer?) for your suspension rebuild.

Originally Posted by Coleman
ERP is making a set as well, and considering ERP's reputation, and BBI's reputation, I would definitely be buying the ERP.. Or the factory, GT2's ..
We don't hear such gossip in the UK - what does each reputation entail? Or, what's been reported re: the BBi items?
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Old 04-15-2024, 08:02 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by boomboomthump
This came up recently in another thread where apparently some 964 folks have done this. Scratching my head though...

How would it raise the spindle? The wheel carrier/hub are fixed to the wheel. The centerline through the hub is a constant measurement to the ground. The ball joint is attached to the carrier, so the ball joint to ground measurement is also constant, no?

The only thing I believe that would accomplish is changing the angle of the control arm (putting it more in harms way relative to road obstacles) and make the ball joint angle more severe.


A quick simplified drawing. Perhaps I need more coffee. Or perhaps I'm still too aggravated with my tax bill due to the IRS today to give this more thought.


It pushes the outer end of the A-arm do

wn, this lowers the instant centers which raises the roll center, that's a good thing
Old 04-15-2024, 09:21 PM
  #86  
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OK, will take your word on that. I thought we meant physically raising the spindle, which of course isn't possible (unless the tires are hovering off the ground).


Thanks for clarifying.


Old 04-16-2024, 07:32 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by boomboomthump
OK, will take your word on that. I thought we meant physically raising the spindle, which of course isn't possible (unless the tires are hovering off the ground).


Thanks for clarifying.
should have said , raise the spindle relative to the outer end of the a-arm

Thats what he RS and BBi wheel carriers do

the goal is to keep the roll center near the CoM, this reduce roll forces and keeps the wheels planted.
Old 04-17-2024, 07:47 AM
  #88  
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I'm sure someone will have interest.

I've got the RS/GT2 spindles as well but have the RSR/Evo tie rods.


Edit: this was in response to a message that was since deleted, where someone was offering GT2 uprights and RS tie rods for sale.




Last edited by boomboomthump; 04-18-2024 at 07:53 PM.
Old 04-17-2024, 11:09 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
It pushes the outer end of the A-arm do

wn, this lowers the instant centers which raises the roll center, that's a good thing
doesn't do anything. you'll notice the lines in he diagram pass through the center of the articulating elements, ball joints on the outboard and pivot bushings on inboard sides respectively.

The uninformed owner could add several inches of spacers between the ball joints and lower arm and it still wouldn't do a thing for kinematics.
Old 04-18-2024, 01:01 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by ToSi
doesn't do anything. you'll notice the lines in he diagram pass through the center of the articulating elements, ball joints on the outboard and pivot bushings on inboard sides respectively.

The uninformed owner could add several inches of spacers between the ball joints and lower arm and it still wouldn't do a thing for kinematics.
True the uninformed don't understand the geometry here

The basic principle was introduced back in the '70s on Porsche sedan derived race cars.
These are Bilstein struts that have had the spindles raised 30mm.



The reason to do this is to restore the front-end geometry on a lowered car. When lowered to angle of the Arm goes from down to straight to up
normal


lowered some


lowered too much





what happens as the car is lowered is the instant center which is determined by the A-arm is lowered, this in turn caused the roll center to go down which increases the moment arm causing roll , here you can see that A1 < A2

This is exactly what RS or BBi wheel carriers do.

BBi raised the spindle than the RS version
RS



Here you can see the raised spindle on an RS compared to a stock 993-wheel carrier.


placing the ball joint on top of the A-arm does the same thing, I don't know that it's a good idea but BBi seems to think it is.






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