UK993RS

Hi just picked up a kenwood ksc-sw11 under seat sub.. anyone got one of these and if so where in the bulk head did you route the power cable to the battery ? I dont want to take the dashboard apart so assuming there must be an alternative route

alsamrob4

I installed an amp under the passenger seat and routed the power under the soundproofing in passenger footwell, up to bottom of dash, then over to driver's footwell. There was a hole in the firewall there. I bought a rubber grommet that fit it, fed the power through it into the frunk and down to the battery. I didn't have to make any additional holes

pp000830

Hi alsamrob,
I found a pass-through grommet on the passenger side and did this as well.
In retrospect, I am not sure it was necessary, in my car, because the current draw from the amp is only high for a few milliseconds at a time and only when maxing out the listening volume. Most of the time, it uses less than 1/10 of its rated current draw.

There are two constant on high amperage circuits under the seat one to power the Premium Sound amp if present the other is a prewired plug to power the heated seat option. A good chassis /body ground is also under the front edge of the seat.

The under-seat heated seat connection is part of the multi-pin power seat plug. The plug is designed to be disassembled to have an added wire soldered to Pin "2", the hot (+) pin. Pin "2" leads to the heated seat 25 amp. fuse in the fuse box even if the car is not heated seat equipped.

Adding a large gauge direct-to-battery constant-on high-current carrying wire needs to be carefully protected from abrasion and it needs to be fused on the battery end so a short doesn't induce a car fire.

Andy

993Porsche

Just wanted to know if you have powered seats? If so, the spacing for an amp or speaker is super tight. And how is the sound from this device?

Thanks,
Ken

Kika

Interested in how this turns out, been thinking about adding an Infinity Basslink under the passenger seat myself. If there is already power, that would make it super easy to install.

71-3.0-911

Power is already there, yes but is likely insufficient to supply the needed power levels required by the amp. You'll likely blow the fuse, regularly. You'll still need to run power from the frunk.

pp000830

Hi Ken,
I nixed the subwoofer idea and went with a bass reconstruction DSP. Works great and doesn't eat up cabin space.
Discussed about halfway down on this page:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...or-993-in.html

Andy ;-)

Kika

Andy,

so, as I understand it the DSP recreates lower frequencies based on harmonics in the higher frequncies, but if you don’t add a subwoofer, wouldn’t you still be limited by the existing speakers ability to reproduce low frequencies, whether the source contains it or it is recreated by a DSP?

Maybe I should spend less time thinking about it, and just listen to what a DSP can do. Like many, I like a full sounding audio system, but dont want to use a bunch of space up in my car.

anything you can explain about what the results of installing and tuning a DSP contributes would be great!

thanks

pp000830

Hi Kika,
My impression of adequate low-frequency sound (100 hz and lower) is that it is greatly influenced by the acoustic harmonics they induce in the listening environment. In absence of the harmonics, the bass can sound flat. Low-frequency compliant door speakers and a low-frequency recovery DSP do a good job of making up for the harmonics missing in the 911 cabin's acoustics.
If one is looking for lowrider thumping bass, it will still require a good size power amp in the 150 Watt RMS or greater to avoid amp clipping distortion
My experience is discussed halfway down this page:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...or-993-in.html

Thanks for asking,
Andy

fnckr

Andy, you posted an incorrect link.

pp000830

Whoops, fixed,
here it is:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...or-993-in.html