mferris

Having a new clutch put into my 63K mile 1995 993. The engine has no leaks and has been serviced annually since new but since the clutch slave went out a bearing sound is now present when shifting gears so I might as well replace the clutch while dropping the engine.

Is there any other preventative maintenance (not upgrades) I should do in a completely stock drivetrain? Not looking for upgrades given how original the car is.

TDW993

This is what I did when I completed my clutch replacement:993 - Engine removal tasks completed.

• Remove engine and seperate engine and gearbox as per Porsche repair manual
• Cleaned gearbox bell housing and external areas. Fitted new OE input shaft seal. Fitted new OE selector shaft seal.
• Replaced rear gearbox mount with new genuine Porsche mount. Remove drive flanges and replace axle shaft seals. Re-torque to correct specs.
• Removed power steering cover, belt and housing. Replaced rear camshaft O ring and camshaft seal behind power steering pump.
• Replaced power steering belt with OEM unit
• Removed and replaced rear camshaft cover O ring - passenger side
• Drop off starter motor for overhaul/service
• Remove front airconditioning bracket and front pulley. Remove front timing chain covers. Inspect chains and guides - all in good condition.
• Engine tin and braced engine cross bar dropped off for powder coating
• Removed valve covers. Removed all rocker assemblies and replaced hydraulic lifters x 12 with new OE parts. Check head bolts for correct tension - all perfect. Clean valve covers and assemble with new OE rocker cover gaskets (Wrightwood Racing) and new OE bolts.
• Remove spark plugs x 12 and replace with new NGK BCPR7ET and torque to correct specs.
• Remove CV joint/axle assemblies from car. Disassemble and inspect/ clean. Repack CV joints, replace 4 x boots with new OE kits. Reassemble and refit to car. Torque hub nuts to correct specs.
• Remove fan/ alternator assembly from engine. Disassemble fan/housing from alternator. Drop off alternator for inspection and service.
• Remove injectors x 6 from fuel rails. Drop off to Brisbane Fuel Injection for ultrasonic clean and flow test - perfect results detected in flow/spray pattern tests. New O rings fitted, new filters on each injector and nozzle caps.
• Fit new crank reference and cylinder head temp sensors with genuine OE parts
• Fit new OE knock sensors x 2
• Remove old engine bay sound pad, remove old adhesive and fit new Appbiz premium sound pad using 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
• Fit new “Pad Keeper” to newly fitted sound pad
• Drop off catalytic converter and associated hardware to get high temp ceramic coating
• Drop off engine fan and housing for Cerakote finish as well as front timing chain covers.
• Install new genuine Porsche intake stacks/seals x 6 and torque to correct specification.
• Remove fuel rails and fuel cross hose, remove engine wiring harness and engine shroud. Wash down engine and clean associated parts. Replace engine thermostat cover O ring. Replace oil pressure switch and oil temperature sensor with new OE parts.
• Replace breather cover gasket
• Replace oil pressure sensor and oil temperature switch with genuine Porsche parts
• Replace ignition plug leads with new OE Beru lead set. Replace 2 x distributor caps and rotor buttons with OE Bosch parts.
• Install new fuel rail and hose assembly with genuine Porsche part. Install reconditioned injectors and new O rings.
• Fit rear engine tin and side tinware after powder coating.
• Fit new intermediate shaft O ring with OE part
• Install rear camshaft housing with new OE O ring.
• Clean engine wiring harness and fit to engine in original position - confirmed this is the upgraded harness without faulty insulation. Recall performed previously.
• New 996/997 GT3/Turbo Bosch starter motor sourced due to original starter solenoid being unable to be serviced (sealed unit) and replacement unavailable/out of production.
• Alternator rebuilt including new genuine regulator, new slip joints and replacement Japanese quality bearings bearings.
• Fit rear main seal, fit front seal - both OEM Elring made in Germany
• Fit new OE Luk duel mass flywheel and new genuine flywheel bolts. Torque to correct specs.
• Remove and clean inlet air control valve
• Clean inlet manifold runners/resonance valve and throttle body
• Clean inlet manifold external areas
• Fit new OE inlet stacks and rubber gaskets sleeves
• Refit intake manifold assembly to engine and connect associated vacuum lines and hoses
• Replace crank reference sensor, knock sensor and cylinder head temperature sensor plugs on body harness to suit new sensors
• Fit rebuilt alternator, new genuine Porsche RS pulley assembly and new belt tensioned to correct spec.
• Refit newly powder coated engine tinware
• Fir new starter bush to gearbox bell housing
• Replace clutch slave cylinder and flexible hose with OE parts. Flush fluid with new brake fluid and bleed system as required
• Fit new genuine clutch throw out bearing assembly to clutch pressure plate in preparation for install
• Fit new OE clutch fork, OE cross-shaft and bearings
• Mate gearbox to engine - specific Porsche grease used
• Fit engine cradle, airconditioning bracket, heat shields and catalytic converter (newly high temp ceramic coated)
• Fit new Bosch GT3 996/997 starter motor
• Refit engine/gearbox assembly to car. Fit exhaust (newly high temp ceramic coated) heater tubes, CV joints to gearbox ( new bolts)and undercarriage ancillaries.
• Rear suspension cross member fitted including toe arms - eccentric bolts set to original position
• Reconnect engine bay wiring, intake filter assembly and associated ducting. Fit blower motor and pipe work.
• Change both oil filters and add 9.5 litres of Brad Penn 20w/50 PENN 1 oil.
• Exhaust tips fitted and adjusted ( newly polished)
• Rear hub nuts torqued up to spec - 331 ft pounds
• Road wheels fitted and wheel nuts torque to spec
• Start engine and monitor oil pressure, oil temperature and level. Check for oil leaks - none present. Oil pressure and temperature perfect.
• Road test - excellent result

pp000830

Hi M.,
No need to drop the engine to service a transmission or clutch in a 993. The only air-cooled 911 that is designed to do this. While the tranny is out replace the power steering pump belt.
If you do remove the engine, at considerable added labor hours, consider replacing the wires to the air pump on the top back of the engine as wire failure is common even though the pump itsself has proven to be extremely durable.
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...horror-of.html

Andy

TDW993

I am guessing you have never done a transmission only drop on a 993? If you had, you wouldn’t recommend it. Yes they can be done but just not worth the headache. Pull the engine and do it all properly.

orangecurry

Another view (which happens to support Andy) - my mechanic, Porsche trained, only drops the tranny to do a clutch. Massively cheaper (for me) than doing an engine drop.

OP - if you really are going to drop the engine for a clutch, I would consider looking at the starter motor - if it is at all lazy or struggling when hot. This is something where I would strongly urge you to upgrade within OEM, and fit the Bosche SR0451N, which was factory fit for the 996 Turbo. Difference in ease of starting is astonishing, as the 'spec' is clearly more robust. IMO replace the starter-motor GROUND WIRE with new, and do this even if you decide your existing starter motor is fine.

PS and his labor rates don't include me paying for a nice workshop for him to work in

jfischet

same. my mechanic said he would not drop the engine to replace the clutch on my 993 when i asked him about it a few years ago.

TDW993

Nice workshop😬

akrca4

I think only necessary for C4/C4S because of the AWD center drive shaft?

Edward

I know some of you guys say/recommend not pulling the engine to do a clutch job. I will counter with: pull the engine and get a lot of stuff done that you'd otherwise not get done, put off to get done, later, or wait till it breaks then have to get done. The OP mentioned preventative maintenance: well, engine out at clutch time is exactly that time.

The list at post #2 is seriously comprehensive, wow did TDW do a job there! So at the risk of oversimplifying, here's my rec:

• all belts, including distributor belt
• all fluids, and check/replace hoses and boots especially power steering.
• IIRC there's a sensor or sender up there that's a bear to get to engine in, so now's the time
• replace the clutch slave ...yeah, just replace the sucker: its seriously old and a new one will assure you won't have a hanging clutch pedal.
• replace plugs; plug wires depends on condition

It's expensive, to be sure, and will add considerably to the total bill as opposed to doing just the clutch. But it is time and money well spent to help assure you have a sound car that not only will run better, but also greatly mitigate against a roadside breakdown. Again, time and money well spent, IME.

Edward

TDW993

I did probably go a bit over the top when I did my engine out “while I’m in there clutch replacement” but as Edward has mentioned, the key item are worth doing with the engine out. Absolutely worth the extra couple of hours doing the complete engine removal for these items.

PRSWILL

Nope- you can remove the torque tube and trannie without a drop in a C4/C4s.

JimPA

If you have any synchro issues at all, particularly 2nd gear, this is the perfect time to replace.