crw

Both F and R rotors were lipped - likely original from 97.

Did the rear 1st - still squealed.

I did the front and made the mistake or re-using the old pads which had a ton of pad left. Trying to save some $ cost me a lot of time.

The squeal persisted, so took them off after 100 miles.

I tried the brake hard technique to re-bed the old pads from many different speeds - the only thing I accomplished was giving myself vertigo.

When I took them off, the pads seemed burnished and I could tell they were contacting the rotor unevenly.

New pads solved the problem.

A few hints to the DIY crowd:

1. New everything - discs, pads, caliper bolts, and spiders. Note the 36mm spiders from FCP euro don't fit real well, you have to play with the splines.

2. Remove about 100cc of brake fluid out of your reservoir when you compress the pistons - remember to put it back.

3. Compressed air (wear a mask), brake kleen and soap and water work well on the calipers.

4. May sure the metal part of the caliper that comes in contact with the metal edges of the pad is coated with a brake lubricant.

5. Proper torque

6. Textar pads are the same as the pads in the Porsche Box, Porsche tax on these are 100%

7. Beware of gouging on the price of rotors, pads, and shipping.

8. The pad wear sensors aren't needed - cut them and twist the wires together. Visual inspection of the pad thickness is easy.

rdad993

I did the whole brake thing on our C2 at 80,000 miles (3 years ago), original with heavily lipped rotors and the pads were just about done. I didn't know about the Textar pads so I paid the full Porsche tax, and got Zimmerman rotors. I reused the spiders and saved a few bucks, someone on here gave me the tip to use a 3M product to hold them in place during the install. i also pulled off the calipers to closely inspect them and they were fine. New bolts on the fronts. One thing nice about a car that has lived its whole life in the South is no corrosion anywhere, connections all broke free no stress. Full flush and no squeals! Happy camper!

pp000830

Hi CRW,
I would add to this to chamfer the inner edge to help with getting the new pads in and chamfering the lead and tail edge of the new pads before installing them to avoid squeal.
Keep in mind the total width difference between a new and worn rotor is just 2mm total or 1mm per side so a rotor with a pronounced ridge on the edge is most likely nearly or completely out of specification and so prone to produce noisy brakes if just new pads are installed. Rotors, pads, and spiders (noise clips) are inexpensive from Rock Auto. The last time I purchased Sachs branded rotors with the OE drill hole pattern left & right.
Here is my page on the subject:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...es-rotors.html
Every time I feel enough years have gone by to replace the pads, I get the car up on stands and when I pull them they seem to have a good bit of meat on them however since I already have the car on jack stands and the pads are relatively inexpensive I end up replacing them, go figure?
Andy

71-3.0-911

10mm of wear? Are you sure that is correct? Seems an awful lot.

pp000830

Thanks for the heads-up Should be 1mm - fixed my posting above

993c4ie

Do you remember the name of that 3M product ? Thanks

rdad993

Yes, it is 3M 467MP clear transfer tape. I got it on Amazon for about $7. for a little roll.

pp000830

Hi 993c4ie,
It is described midway down on this page:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...es-rotors.html
Andy

Edward

I have NEVER had squeal with stock Textar real Porsche box pads. No spiders, I hate em. I use LubroMoly's high-temp copper grease in a tube on the backs of the pads. Been doing this since 2001 and now have 185k miles. The right grease and pads are the trick ...never a sound!

Edward

Matsuzaka

The other thing that is important when renewing pads is the break in procedure.
Do not “burn them in”, you have to break them in gently, if you get them too hot initially the chemicals will come to the surface and glaze the surface which can cause the brakes to be less effective and squeal.
I do not care for factory pads due to their heavy dusting qualities, I’m old school so I like Repco/Axxis/PBR Deluxe pads(not Metal Masters) although, I’m not sure if they’re available for my 993. I use them on my 930 and my E30 M3. Deluxe pads are easier on rotors than MM and dusting is minimal.
Repco’s instructions on break in was to get car up to 35mph or so and brake gently but not to a complete stop and repeat this like 10 times.
Of course, this is just my opinion.

pp000830

Hi Edward,
Fascinating, I have never heard of using a lube compound.
Are you speaking of LIQUI MOLY Kupfer Paste 3080 Copper grease?
Do you think using the soft OE pads or the lube is the primary influence in quiet operation?
Andy

Sigs993

I just removed the spider clips a few years ago and I havent had any noise since.

Edward

Hey Andy,

I once bought (looong ago) the "OEM" pads which were Jurids and supposedly had good reviews. Less dust than the OE Textar to be sure, but squealed. I could not, for the life of me, shut these suckers up! So I thrashed them on the track then ditched em after the event ...good riddance! Went back to the real OE Textar with the LubroMoly grease. It's an ooollld tube so who knows what it's called today, if they still make it, but I'd think they would. It's copper based, hi-temp, and even the tube is copper colored, fwiw, anyway.

I'd have say the bulk of the quiet operation is the pad itself. But before my last pad change the fronts started with a mild squeal. Popped the pads off, applied some LM grease, and that bought me many more miles of quiet driving. It was only a few months ago that I finally had to replace the fronts (and I figured I was due for rotors) so Textars again, Zimm rotors, LM grease, and yet again, all is perfect. Yes, I have to deal with the brake dust ...and mine is a daily driver. But with the stock Cup wheels, it's a 30 seconds/wheel job once a week which I will gladly accept given how well these stock pads perform and last. Hope that helps ya a bit

Edward