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Hey all, have searched countless threads but having an issue with my LED brake lights. I installed not one, but two smart ballasts in the brake circuit (one ballast on each side of the brake light assembly). I even went a little crazy and got rid of spliced connections, and cleaned up pigtails with freshly soldered in ballasts and insulation.
Current Setup:
2x LED brake lights
1x Bergvill LED third brake light
2x Bergvill LED Smart Ballast
Verified fuse 19 is OK. Lights work, cruise control works
Verified brake microswitch for cruise control operational
Verified clutch microswitch for cruise control operational
Verified cruise control works with incandescent bulbs in both sockets
Cruise control breaks when one LED is in the brake light circuit
Installed 2 Bergvill ballasts
Resistance without any ballast: 8.1 ohm
Resistance with 1 or more ballast: 2.6 ohm
Would love to bounce some ideas around of how to best triage this. At this point, I feel like I've ruled out as much as I can, short of putting in my broken incandescent bulb-laden third brake light. Would anyone happen to have resistance readings on hand? If done quickly, I'd be very grateful to compare notes.
I'm curious if I could create a false resistance by splicing in an incandescent bulb somewhere…
I had the same experience as flyau98. I purchased an "upgraded" ballast (you need to request a special link from Tore to purchase as it isn't listed on Bergville's website) but it did not solve the issue; however, if you reinstall 1 incandescent bulb the cruise control will work again. I have considered reinstalling the original 3rd brake light bulb strip in order to have a functioning cruise control but I ultimately decided to retain the all-LED rear setup.
Hi Guys,
It seems that there is no compelling reason to swap out the stop lights for LEDs.
I do have Tore's high-mounted stop light LED array installed on my car with no other LEDs in the exterior lighting, and the cruise control works properly. The benefit for me was I was able to add an inline LED strobe module to the high-mounted light so it strobes for a moment before going solid red. It makes the 993 with a low roof height that doesn't rise above the widow sill of many other vehicles on the load much more noticeable when it counts. When applying the breaks on the Dallas Tollway North, a road where folks drive very fast, and their situational awareness is not particularly good, especially during rush hour.
Here is my page that shows how they work: https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...h-mounted.html
Andy
I installed Tore's LED lights, and no problem, however I kept the 3rd Brake Light as incandescent which seems to draw enough current to allow cruise control to work.
Andy, I just liked that Tore's LED lights are so much better than the original, better color and much brighter, plus the full brightness instantly makes a bigger visual impact. I used the US Amber set, the red rear turn signals with the amber bulbs make for a very bright orange. Electrically speaking, the amount current saved by LEDs is minimal when considering the draw from other circuits.
I installed Tore's LED lights, and no problem, however I kept the 3rd Brake Light as incandescent which seems to draw enough current to allow cruise control to work.
Andy, I just liked that Tore's LED lights are so much better than the original, better color and much brighter, plus the full brightness instantly makes a bigger visual impact. I used the US Amber set, the red rear turn signals with the amber bulbs make for a very bright orange. Electrically speaking, the amount current saved by LEDs is minimal when considering the draw from other circuits.
Have to agree here re: amber turn signals, the visual impact through a full red lens is stunning.
I installed Tore's LED lights, and no problem, however I kept the 3rd Brake Light as incandescent which seems to draw enough current to allow cruise control to work.
Andy, I just liked that Tore's LED lights are so much better than the original, better color and much brighter, plus the full brightness instantly makes a bigger visual impact. I used the US Amber set, the red rear turn signals with the amber bulbs make for a very bright orange.
Installed Tore's rear LED brake and turn bulbs a few weeks ago but didn't change the high mounted light. I guess I haven't tried the cruise since. As noted by the OP and StevenGilroy, the increased bightness and color are great.
FWIW, I saw a 1998 study from the DOT which reported that the long-term effectiveness (crash reduction) of the high mounted light (CHMSL), first mandated in 1986, was 4.3%.
@JSF I have the exact same issues with the exact same setup including 2x toreb ballasts, working switches etc but no working cruise.
Tbh I stopped working on this for a while but your post has me wondering again. If you want to compare stuff, help troubleshoot, let me know.
Subscribed...
@JSF I have the exact same issues with the exact same setup including 2x toreb ballasts, working switches etc but no working cruise.
Tbh I stopped working on this for a while but your post has me wondering again. If you want to compare stuff, help troubleshoot, let me know.
Subscribed...
Thx for the feedback. This morning I just tried ruling out the crimps as well and I’ve soldered in the ballast. Still getting 3.6 ohm as expected.
I do. I started down this road because a few of the bulbs were out on my 3ed light strip. So I bought the LED one and the LED bulb package (also with amber turns).
I Ohm’d things out too, including having an aircraft mechanic friend make sure I was doing it right. Though that was a year+ ago. Don’t remember the value, but I sent it to bergville as per of his troubleshooting.
I do a lot of highway driving, so the cruise is important to me.
2 ballasts, good wiring and it still seems the only solution is to have at least one incandescent bulb in the brake lights.
I do. I started down this road because a few of the bulbs were out on my 3ed light strip. So I bought the LED one and the LED bulb package (also with amber turns).
I Ohm’d things out too, including having an aircraft mechanic friend make sure I was doing it right. Though that was a year+ ago. Don’t remember the value, but I sent it to bergville as per of his troubleshooting.
I do a lot of highway driving, so the cruise is important to me.
2 ballasts, good wiring and it still seems the only solution is to have at least one incandescent bulb in the brake lights.
Perfect. We do have the same setup then. And I’m troubleshooting between one and two ballasts at a time to no avail. I’ll let you know if I find out or make any developments here. Cruise control and a fully functioning car is important to me.
As per website : https://www.bergvillfx.com/products/led-smart-ballast If you left the 3rd brake light incandescent, the ballast is not needed. Also states if you need a ballast , only one is needed. Curious why you guys went with two ballasts? Did you start with one and then tried two, or went with two right away?
12-15-2023, 07:26 PM
LED Ballast / Cruise Control Woes
