crw

I haven't bled the clutch myself in the past, will tackle it this time.

From what I gather, best to use a short 7mm box wrench.

It seems most people (unless having upgraded to Andreas modification), do it blind from the driver-rear wheel well of from below.

I assume the black cap either just screws or pulls off the bleeder nipple?

To maximize access, after jacking up the car, let the wheels and suspension hang?

- best approach from wheel well (after removing wheel) or from below (remove orange hoses and other items for access?)

I can get the car pretty high up on jackstand, just looking for some useful tips from others. Thanks.

AX993

Photos in order: A)The cheap 7mm wrench I use for clutch slave cyl. bleed.
B)Don't know when the factory removed the overflow hose and replaced it with a rubber cap, but if using a pressure bleeder make sure it's clamped off.
C) I put red sharpie ink inside the 2 arrows with "PP" between them to mark as My lowest fluid level when bleeding the clutch fluid.
I like to think the "PP" means "Pressure Plate" as a reminder for clutch slave fluid lower level, but I have no idea what it really means.
It is important to realize that the clutch slave cyl. bleeds much faster than the brake calipers. I bled the clutch fluid system dry when I first attempted this job so now I check the level frequently.

I put the car up on sturdy jack-stands, remove the transaxle undertray (nothing else needs removing for me), and while laying on my back and head towards the rear, reach up with my left hand and locate the slave cyl. by feel and remove the black rubber dust cap which just pulls off. Try not to drop the cap! There is room to use a mechanics mirror to locate it, but not fun. I put the box end of the wrench on the bleed nipple and then push on the clear bleed hose. I've never tried bleeding the clutch slave from the wheel well.
I use a Motive pressure bleeder "dry" to push out the old fluid. If it's been a while, it will be easy to see when the old dark fluid ends and the new clean fluid comes out.

I don't know if this is the best way to do the job, just the way I do it. HTH.

Floyd540

Nice reply.
The <PP> means the plastic material the reservoir is made of is polypropylene. Identified for recycling use..

crw

Thanks, very helpful.

Previously, when I used Motive to bleed the brakes it seemed that it automatically kept the brake side of the MC full. After disconnecting the Motive I recall removing some fluid with a syringe - not so on the clutch side?

AOW162435

It's all one reservoir, so if you're using the Motive as designed, then you'll keep the clutch circuit full as you bleed.


Andreas

AX993

CRW,

Notice I said I use the Motive pressure bleeder "Dry".
As Andreas says, the Motive is designed to be used "Wet" with brake fluid in the pressure vessel and used that way it would be harder to make a mistake and bleed the system out.
I find the "Dry" method less messy and have been doing it that way for over 15 years. It just means I have to check the reservoir fluid level more frequently.
To each their own, and also like I said, just the way I do it.
"YMMV"

Glenn

AOW162435

Agree. I've been using the Motive 'dry' for more than 18 years.


Andreas

Foxman

This is why I go with the “wet” method. And it’s much more entertaining when you forget to clamp the overflow hose, ha. (I finally broke down, complied with the TSB, and replaced it with a proper venting cap).

Andreas’s excellent remote bleeder design for the clutch slave also makes this job so much easier.

Novice

After you jack it up, and wheels hanging, position a flashlight or laser pointer at around ( 10 o'clock position of the driver rear tire) to light up the bleeder. Tape the flashlight down if necessary and then you can actually see the bleeder from underneath. You hand will block the light, but before that you already have a visual of where it is.