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The motor will be built on the cases shown above (original cases for the car). So I'll be starting from there and the crank and most other bits will be moved over from the existing motor. I may as well go with the machine-in cylinders since the cases are just sitting there right now. It's only a $1000 job. It's not like I have to pay someone to take it all apart, machine the cases and then put the bottom-end all back together for me. For most that wouldn't be economical and the slip-fit route is a quick, easy and cheap top-end only job. In my scenario, it's purely a $1000 decision and doesn't take much convincing.
The route I'm pretty convinced on taking (for now):
- keeping Varioram
- swapping intake plenums to larger RS version
- new RS heads. <-- pricey but between selling my existing heads and the spare engine cases this is likely a wash
- RS camshafts
- back-dated cam sprockets
- 3.8L machine-in p/c
- turbo head studs
(rods, valve springs/retainers tbd)
Essentially, end up with my original goal of RS spec motor. Might have just bit more insurance in a few spots, so we'll call it "RS+". But as far as power goals, I'm staying true to wanting RS-spec and calling it a day. I'm not on a quest for more than that.
Appreciated the offer on the tools. Between you and Mike, I'm pretty well covered. Mike and I have done some tool swapping previously.
The motor will be built on the cases shown above (original cases for the car). So I'll be starting from there and the crank and most other bits will be moved over from the existing motor. I may as well go with the machine-in cylinders since the cases are just sitting there right now. It's only a $1000 job. It's not like I have to pay someone to take it all apart, machine the cases and then put the bottom-end all back together for me. For most that wouldn't be economical and the slip-fit route is a quick, easy and cheap top-end only job. In my scenario, it's purely a $1000 decision and doesn't take much convincing.
The route I'm pretty convinced on taking (for now):
- keeping Varioram
- swapping intake plenums to larger RS version
- new RS heads. <-- pricey but between selling my existing heads and the spare engine cases this is likely a wash
- RS camshafts
- back-dated cam sprockets
- 3.8L machine-in p/c
- turbo head studs
(rods, valve springs/retainers tbd)
Essentially, end up with my original goal of RS spec motor. Might have just bit more insurance in a few spots, so we'll call it "RS+". But as far as power goals, I'm staying true to wanting RS-spec and calling it a day. I'm not on a quest for more than that.
Appreciated the offer on the tools. Between you and Mike, I'm pretty well covered. Mike and I have done some tool swapping previously.
That sounds like a great build and exactly what Colin recommended when he does it for his customers (right down to turbo studs and larger intake). He calls it his "X-50" engine package.
He said the slip-ins should be fine, but they make him a little nervous under high temps, he prefers the bore-in.
Great thread here.
You’re on the right path to having a amped up 993. I went a little nutty and did the 4.0 liter crankshaft with big cams and ITB’s which to be honest is too much for a street car imo but would be perfect for a lightweight track car. If I were to do it all over again I would go this route.
My 4 liter parts are off the car as I’m going a different way with the car..
Also, Sol Snyderman (Perfect Power) is a great engine builder and a wealth of knowledge, definitely worth a call if you have any questions.
@boomboomthump add to you list an old spark to use as a pin puller. I have an old plug from my lawn mower with the threaded end that’s perfect for pulling the pin in and out while timing the cams. Another special tool. Gimme a shout when you’re ready, I can give some tips and have some techniques to align the sprockets. I am in NJ quite frequently. Only a short 993 drive from Boston.
The funny thing is, I didn't even notice the pins had a threaded end. When I saw some photos online and a few videos, it just looked like a hollow pin (but not threaded).
When mine showed up yesterday, I didn't remove them from the bag and only saw the solid end, so I presumed they were updated and now fully solid. I went and looked and see now that one end is solid but yes, the other end is hollow and threaded. Thanks for the tip.
Another little homemade tool. Although I have the Stomski chain tensioners, I also made a “low profile” chain tensioner out of a brake caliper spreader and a couple pieces from the hardware store. It’s handy for tensioning the chains and timing the cams with the heat exchangers in place. Useful when you’re just pulling the cam boxes for oil seals without a full tear down since standard tensioners are tool long to fit. Just drop the motor on a lift table, pull the cam boxes, back together and time the cams, seal it up.
I decided to place an order for one of the RS-spec magnesium intake runners (had some cash sitting in PayPal account). Delaware informed me it is on back order but with "no ETA". They told me that typically there is a month or quarter where the part is expected but the part has neither.
I was already concerned about getting the RS version, as the standard Varioram intake runners are "NLA" (no longer available). Suppose it could be worse if these were also listed "NLA" but the "no ETA" is not giving me the warm and fuzzies that they'll be making another batch considering the standard version is no longer available and you'd think there's definitely more demand for that version.
I decided to place an order for one of the RS-spec magnesium intake runners (had some cash sitting in PayPal account). Delaware informed me it is on back order but with "no ETA". They told me that typically there is a month or quarter where the part is expected but the part has neither.
I was already concerned about getting the RS version, as the standard Varioram intake runners are "NLA" (no longer available). Suppose it could be worse if these were also listed "NLA" but the "no ETA" is not giving me the warm and fuzzies that they'll be making another batch considering the standard version is no longer available and you'd think there's definitely more demand for that version.
Have you checked other suppliers?
I assume we're talking about both P/N 993.110.181.43 and 993.110.722.00 ?
I see them listed in several other places, AutoAtlanta is notorious for only marking things as NLA after someone orders and then they check, but RosePassion is pretty good about that stuff, and they show them both as available - just be sure to select 1996 RS as the 993 sub-model to get the right parts.
I know you're looking to go all original equipment, but Colin mentioned that he grinds out the standard ones for customers to increase the bore, so... there's that...
I did try emailing RosePassion. I'm hopeful (with more RS's over in Europe) that there is indeed stock somewhere aside from Porsche itself. An extra $200/ea but beggars can't be choosers.
Their website says it ships next day but I asked them to confirm. No answer yet but if they don't reply I'll just try ordering and see what they say.
The ID is 3MM larger, which corresponds with the larger plastic manifolds that sit on the head and the larger intake ports on the RS cylinder heads. There is also larger OD rubber couplers to mate them to the plastic manifolds.
Last edited by boomboomthump; 04-04-2024 at 12:19 AM.
The regulars are 275 and the RS are 1100, you need two
Someone grabbed the regulars it seems, and are boring them
If you need me to call Porsche here and check that they could be ordered to the US, let me know.
I can order them but I will be hit with 21% VAT
Why not look into the boring option ?
You could do good stuff with an old one maybe ?
I got a great finish with refreshing mine in no effort
03-22-2024, 08:14 PM
