~~DIY Suspension Install for Dummies~~~
03-09-2006, 09:28 PM
#1
Nordschleife Master
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~~DIY Suspension Install for Dummies~~~
DIY Suspension Install for Dummies
© 2006 Jeff
Created on March 10, 2006
Updated on November 7, 2008
© 2006 Jeff
Created on March 10, 2006
Updated on November 7, 2008
The following Do-It-Yourself (DIY) instructions are provided to help you replace your existing shocks, springs, sway bars, and/or strut brace (if equipped) with Bilstein Heavy-Duty (HD) shocks, Porsche Rest-Of-World (ROW) M030 springs, Porsche ROW front and rear M030 sway bars, and a KLA Industries front strut brace. These instructions have been laid out so that you can simply pick and choose what parts to change out—for example, you can use these instructions to simply install new shocks without installing any additional parts.
Although the sheer length of these instructions may turn some off to the idea of a suspension DIY, I hope that the level of specificity here will have the opposite effect and will help walk you through ever step—holding your hand, so to speak. Just print this out and dive in. If you need to view larger photos, you can visit the link above.
UPDATED 2011: For over five years I have personally paid to host the pictures for this DIY on a third-party site due to the ease of presentation and clarity. Unfortunately, I have had to discontinue my account on that third-party site and as such the site has removed my photos.
This has obviously left this DIY as minimally useful, because without pictures it doesn't truly rise to the level of being a DIY for "Dummies".
I have spent a lot of time reassembling this DIY into a PDF document that I can email. However, due to the time and cost it has taken to assemble this DIY and now reassemble it, I will be asking for a nominal fee to receive a copy ($19.99). Please note that this will be for a single, non-transferable, non-reproducible (you can print for your own use) copy that will be emailed to you upon payment.
This DIY has helped hundreds since 2006.
UPDATED 2021 - For anyone interested in a copy, please PM me with your email address. I'll send a Venmo Request for $19.99 and upon receipt, I'll send you the DIY Install Instructions with pictures.
Thanks!
Last edited by InTheAir; 03-08-2021 at 10:23 AM.
03-09-2006, 09:31 PM
#2
Nordschleife Master
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INSTALLING FRONT SWAY BAR
(F9.) If you have decided to install a new front sway bar, you should follow the above instructions to remove the second front shock/spring assembly from the other side of the vehicle. This will provide you with the most room to work—which still isn’t much.
(F10.) Remove the five (5) 10mm nuts from the rearward edge of the front plastic shroud under the nose of the vehicle. Although in some cases this might not be absolutely required, it makes access to the bottom of the U-shaped sway bar mounting brackets much easier. Some have chosen to remove the extra fasteners along the front edge to completely remove this shroud for easier access.
(F11.) Remove the 13mm bolt and 13mm nut from the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets using a 13mm socket and 13mm wrench. With the nuts removed from the front plastic shroud, you can use the 13mm socket from below to permit additional room for ratcheting.
(F12.) The two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets can ~not~ be removed completely. They are tethered along the forward edge (forward vehicle direction) with a tab that holds the forward portion of the bracket in place. Simply pivot the U-shaped mounting bracket ~into~ this forward slot. In other words, you will be rotating this bracket so that a greater portion of the bracket is below the vehicle cross-member. This picture shows the bracket rotated forward (any new bar installed....just as a peek).
Alternative method (by Steve Tresser): On the underside of the front tab that holds the bracket in place is a midline raised ridge that abuts the rear of the slot. Place a flat-tip screwdriver against the ridge and strike hard several times with a mallet. The screwdriver should be oriented towards the ceiling with the blade angled some towards the rear. The whole bracket will pop out on the bushing side. Getting it back in is another trick. You have to grind off the ridge with your trusty Dremel so the tab will fit back into the slot from above.
(F13.) Remove the 17mm bolt and 17mm nut connecting the ends of the existing sway bar to the front drop links (if so equipped). The existing front sway bar should now be fully disconnected.
(F14.) Remove the two (2) existing bushings from the existing sway bar while the sway bar is still installed. This helps when maneuvering the existing front sway bar out of the vehicle.
(F15.) Remove the existing front sway bar (NOTE THE INITIAL ORIENTATION TO INSURE THE NEW SWAY BAR IS POSITIONED CORRECTLY). This will take some effort and will most likely be the most difficult step of this process, so be patient. In some cases, you might want to use your floor jack to lift one of the front wheel assemblies to provide additional room for maneuvering the sway bar.
(F16.) Insert the new front sway bar. Do not install the new bushings until the bar is inserted. Again, you might want to use your floor jack to lift one of the front wheel assemblies to provide additional room for maneuvering.
(F17.) Grease the inside of the two (2) new front sway bar bushings. You can use Teflon grease or other thick silicone-based grease. Spread it with your finger to evenly coat the inside of the bushing. Insert the new front sway bar bushings on the new front sway bar OUTBOARD of the small sway bar flanges. Grease the outside of the sway bar bushing.
(F18.) Reinstall the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets over the two (2) new front sway bar bushings. The mounting bracket may not want to collapse far enough over the new front sway bar bushings and front sway bar, which will prevent you from inserting the 13mm bolt into the hole in the vehicle cross-member. If you have a large clamp or Vise-Grip®, use it to draw the U-shaped mounting bracket closer to the cross-member. In my case, I used a longer, thinner machine screw and nut to capture the mounting bracket and pull it down into position. I then removed the machine screw and nut was able to again insert the existing 13mm bolt and 13mm nut.
(F19.) Reinstall the 17mm bolt and 17mm nut connecting the ends of the new sway bar to the front drop links.
(F20.) Tighten the 13mm bolt and 13mm nut combination of the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets to a torque setting of 17 ft/lbs using the 13mm socket and 3/8” torque wrench.
(F21.) Tighten the 17mm bolt and 17mm nut combination connecting the front sway bar to the drop links to a torque setting of 34 ft/lbs using the 17mm socket and 17mm wrench. If you’d like, you can delay this step until the new front shock/spring assemblies are installed.
(F22.) Reinstall the five (5) 10mm nuts (or more, if you removed the entire shroud) from the rearward edge of the front plastic shroud under the nose of the vehicle.
PREPARING/INSTALLING NEW SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(F23.) Cut a slot into the brake line holder of the Bilstein HD shock to permit the existing brake line to be slid therein. The width of this slot can be about or slightly less than the diameter of the hole in the brake line holder. The first picture shows the brake line and the narrowed diameter portion that gets clipped and held.
Some have questioned this method, so suffice it to say that it is NOT novel and Porsche Motorsports has been doing the same on Cup cars for 10-15 years.
(F24.) Remove the 21mm nut from the top of the top spring perch of the existing shock/spring assembly using the 21mm Hazet socket and the 7mm Allen wrench. Hold the 7mm Allen wrench with one hand and loosen the 21mm nut using the ratchet in the other hand.
TIP: Some use a spring compressor to compress the existing spring during this process, however this is not required. HOWEVER, BE AWARE THAT ONCE THE 21mm NUT IS REMOVED, THE ASSEMBLY WILL POP APART SLIGHTLY PROPELLING THE TOP SPRING PERCH JUST A FEW INCHES. THEREFORE, MAKE SURE THE SPRING PERCH IS NOT POINTED IN ANY DANGEROUS DIRECTION.
(F25.) Disassemble the existing shock/spring assembly. You will need to reuse the top spring perch, the thick washer/spacer, the spring hat, and the lower spring perch that supports the bottom of the spring. See pictures below for detail on assembly.
(F26.) Position and then tighten the two lock collars on the lower shaft of the Bilstein HD shock to the desired height (see Ride Height discussion above). If you do not have a pair of lock collar wrenches, you can loosen these lock collars using a flat head screwdriver placed in one of the notches and hitting with a hammer (be careful as you will be hitting aluminum lock collars with a steel screwdriver). Once loose, position the lock collars to achieve the desired ride height and retighten. This can be easily varied even after installation on the front of the vehicle; however, the rear of the vehicle will require partial disassembly to adjust the ride height.
TIP: If you are using the Bilstein HD shocks and the Porsche M030 ROW springs and you want to generally achieve the ROW Standard or Sport ride height, you can position the LOWER lock collar such that the BOTTOM edge thereof is about 63mm from the top edge of the mounting bracket. This will get you very close to the ROW settings, especially within the +/- 10mm tolerance.
TIP: If additional lowering/raising is desired, it is helpful to know that for each 1mm adjustment on the shock results in about a 2mm adjustment in fender height.
(F27.) Install the existing lower spring perch so that it rests on the locking collars of the Bilstein HD shock.
(F28.) Install the Porsche M030 spring on the lower spring perch. Although the exact orientation of the M030 spring is not critical in the front because of its constant coil diameter, experienced has shown that installing the smaller wire diameter end on the bottom helps fitment on the top later on. Make sure that the bottom of the spring sits properly in the lower spring perch (see picture).
(F29.) Install the existing spring hat, washer/spacer, top spring perch, and NEW 22mm nut (in that order from lowest to highest) onto the Bilstein HD shock to capture the M030 spring. Be sure to use the new shock nut, which is a 22mm nut, that came with the Bilstein HD shock rather than the existing 21mm nut.
(F30.) Tighten the 22mm nut using the 22mm Hazet Socket and 7mm Allen wrench. Just tighten the 22mm nut enough so that the assembly is firmly connected and is safe (i.e. not going to separate). You will torque the 22mm nut once the new shock/spring assembly is reinstalled in the vehicle.
(F31.) If you have purchased the optional plastic parts listed above, install the new plastic parts on the new Bilstein HD shock. If you chose not to buy the optional plastic parts listed above, then you will need to remove these parts from your existing shock and install them on the new Bilstein HD shock. You can use the existing shock/spring assembly as a guide to determine the proper placement of these parts. However, note that you will need to force the fastener lock plug into each of the plastic parts as illustrated. When installing the plastic parts, each has a center, frangible post that needs to be driven between the retaining legs to lock the plastic parts in connection with the shock. I have used various size socket extensions and a rubber mallet to drive these frangible posts, as pictured.
(F32.) Install the new shock/spring assembly in the shock tower and hand-tighten the four 13mm nuts. Remember to position the small paint dot in the same orientation as prior to removal. Others have suggested that a second person should be available to hold the new shock/spring assembly in position from below. However, I found that it is very easy to lift and hold the new shock/spring assembly within the wheel well and still hand tighten the 13mm nuts with the other hand.
TIP: If you are installing a strut brace, this would be the time to install the strut tower brackets under the four (4) 13mm nuts. You can install one 13mm nut to hold the new shock/spring assembly in place while you position the strut tower bracket in place. Hand-tighten the remaining 13mm nuts.
(F33.) Reconnect the lower end of the new shock/spring assembly by installing the existing 18mm bolt. Do not fully tighten this bolt yet nor install the existing nut bracket.
TIP: Some have suggested lifting the wheel assembly using a floor jack, however I found that your can simply lift it with you hand into the correct position without much effort.
(F34.) Install the 10mm Allen bolt. Install the existing nut bracket such that the 18mm bolt and 10mm Allen bolt threadingly engage the existing nut bracket. Do not fully tighten the 18mm bolt or 10mm Allen bolt, but snug both down.
(F35.) Tighten each of the four (4) 13mm nuts at the top of the shock tower to a torque setting of 18-24 ft/lbs using the 13mm socket, 3/8” extension, and 3/8” torque wrench.
TIP: The proper Porsche spec for the torque of these four (4) 13mm nuts is 24 ft/lbs. However, there have been cases of the stud shearing off under 24 ft/lbs, possibly due to metal fatigue. If this happens, you will need to replace the entire spring perch. (Ask me how I know.)
(F36.) Push the top of the wheel hub assembly toward the center line of the vehicle and simultaneously tighten both the 18mm bolt and 10mm Allen bolt. This will set maximize your camber setting and make sure that both front wheels are equally set, which will allow you to drive the vehicle to the alignment shop. PLEASE NOTE THAT THE ALIGNMENT SHOP WILL ADJUST THESE SETTINGS AS NECESSARY.
(F37.) Tighten the 22mm nut at the top of the Bilstein HD shock to a torque setting of 59 ft/lbs using the 22mm Hazet socket, ½” torque wrench, and 7mm Allen wrench.
(F38.) Tighten the 18mm bolt to a torque setting of 147 ft/lbs.
(F39.) Tighten the 10mm Allen bolt to a torque setting of 88 ft/lbs.
(F40.) Reclip the three brake components from the lower end of the front shock—specifically the brake sensor onto the back side of the front shock, ABS sensor pod into the horizontal black holder, and the small wire into the white clip.
(F41.) Reinsert the existing brake line clip (the downwardly-pointing U-shaped clip) into the brake line holder extending from the shock housing.
(F42.) Complete installation of your strut brace according to the instructions from the manufacturer.
(F9.) If you have decided to install a new front sway bar, you should follow the above instructions to remove the second front shock/spring assembly from the other side of the vehicle. This will provide you with the most room to work—which still isn’t much.
(F10.) Remove the five (5) 10mm nuts from the rearward edge of the front plastic shroud under the nose of the vehicle. Although in some cases this might not be absolutely required, it makes access to the bottom of the U-shaped sway bar mounting brackets much easier. Some have chosen to remove the extra fasteners along the front edge to completely remove this shroud for easier access.
(F11.) Remove the 13mm bolt and 13mm nut from the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets using a 13mm socket and 13mm wrench. With the nuts removed from the front plastic shroud, you can use the 13mm socket from below to permit additional room for ratcheting.
(F12.) The two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets can ~not~ be removed completely. They are tethered along the forward edge (forward vehicle direction) with a tab that holds the forward portion of the bracket in place. Simply pivot the U-shaped mounting bracket ~into~ this forward slot. In other words, you will be rotating this bracket so that a greater portion of the bracket is below the vehicle cross-member. This picture shows the bracket rotated forward (any new bar installed....just as a peek).
Alternative method (by Steve Tresser): On the underside of the front tab that holds the bracket in place is a midline raised ridge that abuts the rear of the slot. Place a flat-tip screwdriver against the ridge and strike hard several times with a mallet. The screwdriver should be oriented towards the ceiling with the blade angled some towards the rear. The whole bracket will pop out on the bushing side. Getting it back in is another trick. You have to grind off the ridge with your trusty Dremel so the tab will fit back into the slot from above.
(F13.) Remove the 17mm bolt and 17mm nut connecting the ends of the existing sway bar to the front drop links (if so equipped). The existing front sway bar should now be fully disconnected.
(F14.) Remove the two (2) existing bushings from the existing sway bar while the sway bar is still installed. This helps when maneuvering the existing front sway bar out of the vehicle.
(F15.) Remove the existing front sway bar (NOTE THE INITIAL ORIENTATION TO INSURE THE NEW SWAY BAR IS POSITIONED CORRECTLY). This will take some effort and will most likely be the most difficult step of this process, so be patient. In some cases, you might want to use your floor jack to lift one of the front wheel assemblies to provide additional room for maneuvering the sway bar.
(F16.) Insert the new front sway bar. Do not install the new bushings until the bar is inserted. Again, you might want to use your floor jack to lift one of the front wheel assemblies to provide additional room for maneuvering.
(F17.) Grease the inside of the two (2) new front sway bar bushings. You can use Teflon grease or other thick silicone-based grease. Spread it with your finger to evenly coat the inside of the bushing. Insert the new front sway bar bushings on the new front sway bar OUTBOARD of the small sway bar flanges. Grease the outside of the sway bar bushing.
(F18.) Reinstall the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets over the two (2) new front sway bar bushings. The mounting bracket may not want to collapse far enough over the new front sway bar bushings and front sway bar, which will prevent you from inserting the 13mm bolt into the hole in the vehicle cross-member. If you have a large clamp or Vise-Grip®, use it to draw the U-shaped mounting bracket closer to the cross-member. In my case, I used a longer, thinner machine screw and nut to capture the mounting bracket and pull it down into position. I then removed the machine screw and nut was able to again insert the existing 13mm bolt and 13mm nut.
(F19.) Reinstall the 17mm bolt and 17mm nut connecting the ends of the new sway bar to the front drop links.
(F20.) Tighten the 13mm bolt and 13mm nut combination of the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets to a torque setting of 17 ft/lbs using the 13mm socket and 3/8” torque wrench.
(F21.) Tighten the 17mm bolt and 17mm nut combination connecting the front sway bar to the drop links to a torque setting of 34 ft/lbs using the 17mm socket and 17mm wrench. If you’d like, you can delay this step until the new front shock/spring assemblies are installed.
(F22.) Reinstall the five (5) 10mm nuts (or more, if you removed the entire shroud) from the rearward edge of the front plastic shroud under the nose of the vehicle.
PREPARING/INSTALLING NEW SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(F23.) Cut a slot into the brake line holder of the Bilstein HD shock to permit the existing brake line to be slid therein. The width of this slot can be about or slightly less than the diameter of the hole in the brake line holder. The first picture shows the brake line and the narrowed diameter portion that gets clipped and held.
Some have questioned this method, so suffice it to say that it is NOT novel and Porsche Motorsports has been doing the same on Cup cars for 10-15 years.
Classification: Suspension
Subject: 1997 993 ROW M030 Shock Installation
Model: 993
Year: 1997
Total Mileage: 37500
Car Use: Street use only
Question:
Joel - The following is from the p-car website. My concern is - will cutting a slot in the brake line holder of the shock risk a safety or operating issue?
Tks, Ken
PREPARING/INSTALLING NEW SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(F23.) Cut a slot into the brake line holder of the Bilstein HD shock to permit the existing brake line to be slid therein. The width of this slot can be about or slightly less than the diameter of the hole in the brak e line holder. The first picture shows the brake line and the narrowed diameter portion that gets clipped and held.
Answer:
Porsche Motorsports was doing this when they were Andial 10-15 years ago with all the Cup cars that came through their shop, and a number of us have been doing it ever since.
This is a good mod, I do this all the time, and have never seen or heard of a problem doing so. Just see to it that the brake line is then clipped in place, or at least tie-wrapped with a heavy duty tie wrap like the T&B in the large thickness & width with the metal tongue.
Joel Reiser - PCA WebSite - 4/10/2006
Subject: 1997 993 ROW M030 Shock Installation
Model: 993
Year: 1997
Total Mileage: 37500
Car Use: Street use only
Question:
Joel - The following is from the p-car website. My concern is - will cutting a slot in the brake line holder of the shock risk a safety or operating issue?
Tks, Ken
PREPARING/INSTALLING NEW SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(F23.) Cut a slot into the brake line holder of the Bilstein HD shock to permit the existing brake line to be slid therein. The width of this slot can be about or slightly less than the diameter of the hole in the brak e line holder. The first picture shows the brake line and the narrowed diameter portion that gets clipped and held.
Answer:
Porsche Motorsports was doing this when they were Andial 10-15 years ago with all the Cup cars that came through their shop, and a number of us have been doing it ever since.
This is a good mod, I do this all the time, and have never seen or heard of a problem doing so. Just see to it that the brake line is then clipped in place, or at least tie-wrapped with a heavy duty tie wrap like the T&B in the large thickness & width with the metal tongue.
Joel Reiser - PCA WebSite - 4/10/2006
(F24.) Remove the 21mm nut from the top of the top spring perch of the existing shock/spring assembly using the 21mm Hazet socket and the 7mm Allen wrench. Hold the 7mm Allen wrench with one hand and loosen the 21mm nut using the ratchet in the other hand.
TIP: Some use a spring compressor to compress the existing spring during this process, however this is not required. HOWEVER, BE AWARE THAT ONCE THE 21mm NUT IS REMOVED, THE ASSEMBLY WILL POP APART SLIGHTLY PROPELLING THE TOP SPRING PERCH JUST A FEW INCHES. THEREFORE, MAKE SURE THE SPRING PERCH IS NOT POINTED IN ANY DANGEROUS DIRECTION.
(F25.) Disassemble the existing shock/spring assembly. You will need to reuse the top spring perch, the thick washer/spacer, the spring hat, and the lower spring perch that supports the bottom of the spring. See pictures below for detail on assembly.
(F26.) Position and then tighten the two lock collars on the lower shaft of the Bilstein HD shock to the desired height (see Ride Height discussion above). If you do not have a pair of lock collar wrenches, you can loosen these lock collars using a flat head screwdriver placed in one of the notches and hitting with a hammer (be careful as you will be hitting aluminum lock collars with a steel screwdriver). Once loose, position the lock collars to achieve the desired ride height and retighten. This can be easily varied even after installation on the front of the vehicle; however, the rear of the vehicle will require partial disassembly to adjust the ride height.
TIP: If you are using the Bilstein HD shocks and the Porsche M030 ROW springs and you want to generally achieve the ROW Standard or Sport ride height, you can position the LOWER lock collar such that the BOTTOM edge thereof is about 63mm from the top edge of the mounting bracket. This will get you very close to the ROW settings, especially within the +/- 10mm tolerance.
TIP: If additional lowering/raising is desired, it is helpful to know that for each 1mm adjustment on the shock results in about a 2mm adjustment in fender height.
(F27.) Install the existing lower spring perch so that it rests on the locking collars of the Bilstein HD shock.
(F28.) Install the Porsche M030 spring on the lower spring perch. Although the exact orientation of the M030 spring is not critical in the front because of its constant coil diameter, experienced has shown that installing the smaller wire diameter end on the bottom helps fitment on the top later on. Make sure that the bottom of the spring sits properly in the lower spring perch (see picture).
(F29.) Install the existing spring hat, washer/spacer, top spring perch, and NEW 22mm nut (in that order from lowest to highest) onto the Bilstein HD shock to capture the M030 spring. Be sure to use the new shock nut, which is a 22mm nut, that came with the Bilstein HD shock rather than the existing 21mm nut.
(F30.) Tighten the 22mm nut using the 22mm Hazet Socket and 7mm Allen wrench. Just tighten the 22mm nut enough so that the assembly is firmly connected and is safe (i.e. not going to separate). You will torque the 22mm nut once the new shock/spring assembly is reinstalled in the vehicle.
(F31.) If you have purchased the optional plastic parts listed above, install the new plastic parts on the new Bilstein HD shock. If you chose not to buy the optional plastic parts listed above, then you will need to remove these parts from your existing shock and install them on the new Bilstein HD shock. You can use the existing shock/spring assembly as a guide to determine the proper placement of these parts. However, note that you will need to force the fastener lock plug into each of the plastic parts as illustrated. When installing the plastic parts, each has a center, frangible post that needs to be driven between the retaining legs to lock the plastic parts in connection with the shock. I have used various size socket extensions and a rubber mallet to drive these frangible posts, as pictured.
(F32.) Install the new shock/spring assembly in the shock tower and hand-tighten the four 13mm nuts. Remember to position the small paint dot in the same orientation as prior to removal. Others have suggested that a second person should be available to hold the new shock/spring assembly in position from below. However, I found that it is very easy to lift and hold the new shock/spring assembly within the wheel well and still hand tighten the 13mm nuts with the other hand.
TIP: If you are installing a strut brace, this would be the time to install the strut tower brackets under the four (4) 13mm nuts. You can install one 13mm nut to hold the new shock/spring assembly in place while you position the strut tower bracket in place. Hand-tighten the remaining 13mm nuts.
(F33.) Reconnect the lower end of the new shock/spring assembly by installing the existing 18mm bolt. Do not fully tighten this bolt yet nor install the existing nut bracket.
TIP: Some have suggested lifting the wheel assembly using a floor jack, however I found that your can simply lift it with you hand into the correct position without much effort.
(F34.) Install the 10mm Allen bolt. Install the existing nut bracket such that the 18mm bolt and 10mm Allen bolt threadingly engage the existing nut bracket. Do not fully tighten the 18mm bolt or 10mm Allen bolt, but snug both down.
(F35.) Tighten each of the four (4) 13mm nuts at the top of the shock tower to a torque setting of 18-24 ft/lbs using the 13mm socket, 3/8” extension, and 3/8” torque wrench.
TIP: The proper Porsche spec for the torque of these four (4) 13mm nuts is 24 ft/lbs. However, there have been cases of the stud shearing off under 24 ft/lbs, possibly due to metal fatigue. If this happens, you will need to replace the entire spring perch. (Ask me how I know.)
(F36.) Push the top of the wheel hub assembly toward the center line of the vehicle and simultaneously tighten both the 18mm bolt and 10mm Allen bolt. This will set maximize your camber setting and make sure that both front wheels are equally set, which will allow you to drive the vehicle to the alignment shop. PLEASE NOTE THAT THE ALIGNMENT SHOP WILL ADJUST THESE SETTINGS AS NECESSARY.
(F37.) Tighten the 22mm nut at the top of the Bilstein HD shock to a torque setting of 59 ft/lbs using the 22mm Hazet socket, ½” torque wrench, and 7mm Allen wrench.
(F38.) Tighten the 18mm bolt to a torque setting of 147 ft/lbs.
(F39.) Tighten the 10mm Allen bolt to a torque setting of 88 ft/lbs.
(F40.) Reclip the three brake components from the lower end of the front shock—specifically the brake sensor onto the back side of the front shock, ABS sensor pod into the horizontal black holder, and the small wire into the white clip.
(F41.) Reinsert the existing brake line clip (the downwardly-pointing U-shaped clip) into the brake line holder extending from the shock housing.
(F42.) Complete installation of your strut brace according to the instructions from the manufacturer.
Last edited by InTheAir; 08-24-2011 at 04:46 PM.
03-09-2006, 09:34 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Neither Here Nor There
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4 Posts
INSTRUCTIONS – REAR SUSPENSION:
These instructions are for one side of the vehicle. You can either do both sides simultaneously or repeat the process once one side is done. However, you will need to have both rear wheels off the ground simultaneously.
REMOVING EXISTING REAR SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(R1.) Remove engine tray (if you haven’t already).
(R2.) Remove transmission tray by unlocking each of the five (5) Phillips head locking fasteners. The transmission tray is the plastic tray forward of the engine.
(R3.) Remove the 15mm nuts from the ends of the rear sway bar by inserting a 16mm open end wrench in between the link and bolt and using a 15mm wrench or socket.
(R4.) Remove each of the four (4) 13mm bolts/nuts from the two (2) U-shaped brackets that hold the rear sway bar to the vehicle cross-member using a 13mm socket and 13mm wrench.
(R5.) Mark the position of the rearward (relative to the vehicle) bolt that connects the lower suspension arm to the vehicle cross-member. This 19mm bolt is an “eccentric” that when turned from the rear of the vehicle will either push/pull the lower suspension arm to adjust the camber of the rear wheel. By marking the position of the rearward end of that bolt you will be able position it into the same location during reassembly. This will not be a perfect position for your alignment, but it will be close and provide you a reasonable setting to safely drive to your alignment shop.
(R6.) Remove the 19mm eccentric bolt (see picture above) described above using a 19mm socket on the eccentric bolt to prevent rotation and a 18mm wrench on the opposing 18mm nut (see picture below). This 18mm nut will require a lot of force to loosen in most cases. As you can see below, the 19mm bolt includes a fixed eccentric washer, a removable eccentric washer, and the 18mm nut. Note that both the fixed eccentric washer and removable eccentric washer are captured between small walls formed on the vehicle cross-member. These washers will need to fit back within these small walls during reassembly.
TIP: Some say that it is difficult to remove the 19mm eccentric bolt from the vehicle cross-member and lower suspension arm on the left side of the vehicle due to the heat exchanger being in the way. For some, this leads them to suggest lifting the engine a few millimeters using the floor jack to provide additional room. However, I found that if you simply rotate the eccentric bolt so that the fixed eccentric washer points downward, there is sufficient room to remove the 19mm eccentric bolt completely.
(R7.) Remove the now-freed lower suspension arm using a rubber mallet.
(R8.) Remove the 18mm nut from the opposing end of the lower suspension arm at the wheel assembly, BUT KEEP THE SPINDLE SHAFT IN PLACE TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY DURING THE NEXT STEP. To prevent the shaft from rotating while removing the 18mm nut, you will need to use a T-40 Torx socket in a 3/8” ratchet. With the T-40 Torx socket inserted into the end of the shaft, you will need to use an 18mm wrench to loosen and remove the bolt.
(R9.) Remove the airbox cover and air filter to provide at least some additional room to work on the right side of the vehicle.
(R10.) See TIP below. Remove each of the four (4) 13mm nuts at the top of the shock tower using a 13mm socket and 3/8” ratchet—you may need a 3” extension for some of the 13mm nuts. The space is very limited on the right side of the vehicle. Therefore, in some cases (such as illustrated below), you may need to remove the airbox in addition to the airbox cover.
TIP: Note the orientation of the small paint dot on the top of the shock tower/top spring perch. You will need to ensure that the orientation of the top spring perch is the same during reinstall. There may not be a paint dot; therefore, you should mark the proper perch orientation using a marker or other devise.
(R11.) Remove the existing rear shock/spring assembly by simply supporting the weight of the shock/spring assembly and removing the spindle shaft from the lower end of the shock.
(R12.) The standard rear shock/spring assembly does not employ a 21mm nut like the standard front assembly. However, you can remove the existing 18mm nut simply by apply a Vise-Grip® pliers to hold the top shaft of the shock itself. Once held, you can use an 18mm socket (deep socket, if you have it handy. If you don't, just don't snap the socket fully onto the ratchet so that you will have enough depth to reach the nut.) to remove the 18mm nut.
TIP: Some use a spring compressor to compress the existing spring during this process; however, this is not required at all. In fact, the assembly will not separate itself even once the nut is removed.
(R13.) Remove the existing 15mm nuts from the existing drop links using a 15mm wrench and a T-25 Torx bit. These 15mm nuts will be used with the new drop links that came with the new Bilstein HD shocks.
PREPARING/INSTALLING NEW SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(R14.) Position the two lock collars on the lower shaft of the Bilstein HD shock to the desired height. If you do not have a pair of lock collar wrenches, you can loosen these lock collars using a flat head screwdriver placed in one of the notches and hitting with a hammer. Once loosened, position the lock collars to achieve the desired ride height, but do not completely tighten (just snug). This can NOT be easily varied after installation on the rear of the vehicle and will require partial disassembly to adjust the ride height.
TIP: If you are using the Bilstein HD shocks and the Porsche M030 ROW springs and you want to generally achieve the ROW Standard or Sport ride height, you can position the UPPER lock collar such that the TOP surface thereof is about 200mm from the centerline of the lower bushing. This will get you very close to the ROW settings, especially within the +/- 10mm tolerance.
TIP: If additional lowering/raising is desired, it is useful to know that for each 1mm adjustment on the shock will result in about a 2mm adjustment in fender height.
TIP: You may want to mark the relation of the locking collar to the shock body so that if the locking collar is inadvertently moved, it can be easily repositioned.
(R15.) Install the Porsche M030 spring on the lower spring perch. The rear M030 springs have a smaller coil diameter on one end—this smaller coil diameter should be on the bottom with the larger coil diameter end on the top.
(R16.) Install the existing washer/spacer, top spring perch, metal cup member, and NEW 19mm nut (in that order from lowest to highest) onto the Bilstein HD shock to capture the M030 spring. Be sure to use the new shock nut, which is a 19mm nut that came with the Bilstein HD shock, rather than the existing 21mm nut. Also be sure that the contour of the upper spring perch is properly positioned relative to the end of the M030 spring.
TIP: Due to the depth of the 19mm nut relative to the end of the shock shaft, which is fitted with a 6mm Allen slot, you will not be able to use the 19mm Hazet socket and 6mm Allen wrench technique that was used for the front as the Allen wrench will prevent the Hazet socket from reaching the 19mm nut as you fully tighten the nut. Therefore, you will need to use a 6mm Allen wrench and a 19mm wrench to tighten the assembly. The 19mm nut should be tightened to a torque setting of 43 ft/lbs. However, this may be difficult to gauge using the above tool arrangement. I simply tightened to my estimate of 43 ft/lbs and will have my alignment shop confirm.
(R17.) Reinstall the new shock/spring assembly in the shock tower in the orientation you noted prior to removal.
TIP: Some suggest having a helper hold the new shock/spring assembly in the shock tower while you hand tighten the four (4) 13mm nuts within the engine compartment. However, I found it easier to simply insert the new shock/spring assembly into the shock tower from below and quickly insert the spindle shaft of the lower suspension arm into the wheel assembly to capture and support the lower end of the new shock/spring assembly. This enabled me to then simply hand tighten the four (4) 13mm nuts within the engine compartment myself. You may need to use a rubber mallet to insert the lower end of the shock between the two flanges of the wheel assembly.
TIP: Note that when installing the M030 rear springs and Bilstein HD shocks, the M030 rear spring will not seat up within the upper spring perch—there will be a gap. However, once weight is applied to the rear wheels, the spring will properly seat itself.
(R18.) Tighten the 18mm nut from the end of the lower suspension arm at the wheel assembly. To prevent the shaft from rotating while tightening the 18mm nut, you will need to use a T-40 Torx socket in a 3/8” ratchet. With the T-40 Torx socket inserted into the end of the shaft, you will need to use an 18mm wrench to tighten the nut.
TIP: The 18mm nut should be tightened to a torque setting of 63 ft/lbs. However, this may be difficult to gauge using the above tool arrangement. I simply tightened to my estimate of 63 ft/lbs.
(R19.) Reinsert the opposing end of the lower suspension arm into the mounting location using a rubber mallet.
(R20.) Reinsert and tighten the 19mm eccentric bolt, removable eccentric washer, and 18mm nut noting the previous orientation prior to removal. This will at least reasonably set the toe setting of the rear wheel. Insure that both the fixed eccentric washer and removable eccentric washer are captured between the small walls formed on the vehicle cross-member.
(R21.) Tighten each of the four (4) 13mm nuts at the top of the shock tower using a 13mm socket and 3/8” ratchet.
INSTALLING REAR SWAY BAR
(R22.) Grease the inside of the two (2) new rear sway bar bushings. Spread it with your finger to evenly coat the inside of the bushing. Insert the new rear sway bar bushings on the new rear sway bar INBOARD of the small sway bar flanges. Grease the outside of the sway bar bushing.
(R23.) Insert the new rear sway bar so that the ends of the sway bar are ABOVE the lower suspension arm.
(R24.) Reinstall the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets over the two (2) new rear sway bar bushings. Tighten the 13mm bolt and 13mm nut combination of the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets to a torque setting of 17 ft/lbs using the 13mm socket and 3/8” torque wrench.
(R25.) Install the new drop links between the ends of the rear sway bar and the drop link bracket extending from the Bilstein HD shock using a 15mm socket and a 16mm wrench positioned between the drop link and the rear sway bar. Do not completely tighten.
TIP: It is critical that the rear drop links are properly positioned and tighten, including the drop link bracket on the Bilstein HD shocks. Although it is possible to generally set the drop link orientation with the vehicle raised, it is easier to lower the rear of the car to put weight on the rear wheels. While doing so, you will then want to position the rear drop links and drop link brackets on the Bilstein HD shocks so that the end of the drop link bracket is in the same plane as the end of the rear sway bar when viewed directly from below. Once this is achieved, the rear drop links and drop link bracket/locking collar can be tightened. Proper positioning of these drop links ensure that the rear drop links do not break, twist, or contact the rear suspension components while driving.
(R26.) Tighten the 15mm nut on the rear drop links to a torque setting of 34 ft/lbs.
These instructions are for one side of the vehicle. You can either do both sides simultaneously or repeat the process once one side is done. However, you will need to have both rear wheels off the ground simultaneously.
REMOVING EXISTING REAR SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(R1.) Remove engine tray (if you haven’t already).
(R2.) Remove transmission tray by unlocking each of the five (5) Phillips head locking fasteners. The transmission tray is the plastic tray forward of the engine.
(R3.) Remove the 15mm nuts from the ends of the rear sway bar by inserting a 16mm open end wrench in between the link and bolt and using a 15mm wrench or socket.
(R4.) Remove each of the four (4) 13mm bolts/nuts from the two (2) U-shaped brackets that hold the rear sway bar to the vehicle cross-member using a 13mm socket and 13mm wrench.
(R5.) Mark the position of the rearward (relative to the vehicle) bolt that connects the lower suspension arm to the vehicle cross-member. This 19mm bolt is an “eccentric” that when turned from the rear of the vehicle will either push/pull the lower suspension arm to adjust the camber of the rear wheel. By marking the position of the rearward end of that bolt you will be able position it into the same location during reassembly. This will not be a perfect position for your alignment, but it will be close and provide you a reasonable setting to safely drive to your alignment shop.
(R6.) Remove the 19mm eccentric bolt (see picture above) described above using a 19mm socket on the eccentric bolt to prevent rotation and a 18mm wrench on the opposing 18mm nut (see picture below). This 18mm nut will require a lot of force to loosen in most cases. As you can see below, the 19mm bolt includes a fixed eccentric washer, a removable eccentric washer, and the 18mm nut. Note that both the fixed eccentric washer and removable eccentric washer are captured between small walls formed on the vehicle cross-member. These washers will need to fit back within these small walls during reassembly.
TIP: Some say that it is difficult to remove the 19mm eccentric bolt from the vehicle cross-member and lower suspension arm on the left side of the vehicle due to the heat exchanger being in the way. For some, this leads them to suggest lifting the engine a few millimeters using the floor jack to provide additional room. However, I found that if you simply rotate the eccentric bolt so that the fixed eccentric washer points downward, there is sufficient room to remove the 19mm eccentric bolt completely.
(R7.) Remove the now-freed lower suspension arm using a rubber mallet.
(R8.) Remove the 18mm nut from the opposing end of the lower suspension arm at the wheel assembly, BUT KEEP THE SPINDLE SHAFT IN PLACE TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY DURING THE NEXT STEP. To prevent the shaft from rotating while removing the 18mm nut, you will need to use a T-40 Torx socket in a 3/8” ratchet. With the T-40 Torx socket inserted into the end of the shaft, you will need to use an 18mm wrench to loosen and remove the bolt.
(R9.) Remove the airbox cover and air filter to provide at least some additional room to work on the right side of the vehicle.
(R10.) See TIP below. Remove each of the four (4) 13mm nuts at the top of the shock tower using a 13mm socket and 3/8” ratchet—you may need a 3” extension for some of the 13mm nuts. The space is very limited on the right side of the vehicle. Therefore, in some cases (such as illustrated below), you may need to remove the airbox in addition to the airbox cover.
TIP: Note the orientation of the small paint dot on the top of the shock tower/top spring perch. You will need to ensure that the orientation of the top spring perch is the same during reinstall. There may not be a paint dot; therefore, you should mark the proper perch orientation using a marker or other devise.
(R11.) Remove the existing rear shock/spring assembly by simply supporting the weight of the shock/spring assembly and removing the spindle shaft from the lower end of the shock.
(R12.) The standard rear shock/spring assembly does not employ a 21mm nut like the standard front assembly. However, you can remove the existing 18mm nut simply by apply a Vise-Grip® pliers to hold the top shaft of the shock itself. Once held, you can use an 18mm socket (deep socket, if you have it handy. If you don't, just don't snap the socket fully onto the ratchet so that you will have enough depth to reach the nut.) to remove the 18mm nut.
TIP: Some use a spring compressor to compress the existing spring during this process; however, this is not required at all. In fact, the assembly will not separate itself even once the nut is removed.
(R13.) Remove the existing 15mm nuts from the existing drop links using a 15mm wrench and a T-25 Torx bit. These 15mm nuts will be used with the new drop links that came with the new Bilstein HD shocks.
PREPARING/INSTALLING NEW SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(R14.) Position the two lock collars on the lower shaft of the Bilstein HD shock to the desired height. If you do not have a pair of lock collar wrenches, you can loosen these lock collars using a flat head screwdriver placed in one of the notches and hitting with a hammer. Once loosened, position the lock collars to achieve the desired ride height, but do not completely tighten (just snug). This can NOT be easily varied after installation on the rear of the vehicle and will require partial disassembly to adjust the ride height.
TIP: If you are using the Bilstein HD shocks and the Porsche M030 ROW springs and you want to generally achieve the ROW Standard or Sport ride height, you can position the UPPER lock collar such that the TOP surface thereof is about 200mm from the centerline of the lower bushing. This will get you very close to the ROW settings, especially within the +/- 10mm tolerance.
TIP: If additional lowering/raising is desired, it is useful to know that for each 1mm adjustment on the shock will result in about a 2mm adjustment in fender height.
TIP: You may want to mark the relation of the locking collar to the shock body so that if the locking collar is inadvertently moved, it can be easily repositioned.
(R15.) Install the Porsche M030 spring on the lower spring perch. The rear M030 springs have a smaller coil diameter on one end—this smaller coil diameter should be on the bottom with the larger coil diameter end on the top.
(R16.) Install the existing washer/spacer, top spring perch, metal cup member, and NEW 19mm nut (in that order from lowest to highest) onto the Bilstein HD shock to capture the M030 spring. Be sure to use the new shock nut, which is a 19mm nut that came with the Bilstein HD shock, rather than the existing 21mm nut. Also be sure that the contour of the upper spring perch is properly positioned relative to the end of the M030 spring.
TIP: Due to the depth of the 19mm nut relative to the end of the shock shaft, which is fitted with a 6mm Allen slot, you will not be able to use the 19mm Hazet socket and 6mm Allen wrench technique that was used for the front as the Allen wrench will prevent the Hazet socket from reaching the 19mm nut as you fully tighten the nut. Therefore, you will need to use a 6mm Allen wrench and a 19mm wrench to tighten the assembly. The 19mm nut should be tightened to a torque setting of 43 ft/lbs. However, this may be difficult to gauge using the above tool arrangement. I simply tightened to my estimate of 43 ft/lbs and will have my alignment shop confirm.
(R17.) Reinstall the new shock/spring assembly in the shock tower in the orientation you noted prior to removal.
TIP: Some suggest having a helper hold the new shock/spring assembly in the shock tower while you hand tighten the four (4) 13mm nuts within the engine compartment. However, I found it easier to simply insert the new shock/spring assembly into the shock tower from below and quickly insert the spindle shaft of the lower suspension arm into the wheel assembly to capture and support the lower end of the new shock/spring assembly. This enabled me to then simply hand tighten the four (4) 13mm nuts within the engine compartment myself. You may need to use a rubber mallet to insert the lower end of the shock between the two flanges of the wheel assembly.
TIP: Note that when installing the M030 rear springs and Bilstein HD shocks, the M030 rear spring will not seat up within the upper spring perch—there will be a gap. However, once weight is applied to the rear wheels, the spring will properly seat itself.
(R18.) Tighten the 18mm nut from the end of the lower suspension arm at the wheel assembly. To prevent the shaft from rotating while tightening the 18mm nut, you will need to use a T-40 Torx socket in a 3/8” ratchet. With the T-40 Torx socket inserted into the end of the shaft, you will need to use an 18mm wrench to tighten the nut.
TIP: The 18mm nut should be tightened to a torque setting of 63 ft/lbs. However, this may be difficult to gauge using the above tool arrangement. I simply tightened to my estimate of 63 ft/lbs.
(R19.) Reinsert the opposing end of the lower suspension arm into the mounting location using a rubber mallet.
(R20.) Reinsert and tighten the 19mm eccentric bolt, removable eccentric washer, and 18mm nut noting the previous orientation prior to removal. This will at least reasonably set the toe setting of the rear wheel. Insure that both the fixed eccentric washer and removable eccentric washer are captured between the small walls formed on the vehicle cross-member.
(R21.) Tighten each of the four (4) 13mm nuts at the top of the shock tower using a 13mm socket and 3/8” ratchet.
INSTALLING REAR SWAY BAR
(R22.) Grease the inside of the two (2) new rear sway bar bushings. Spread it with your finger to evenly coat the inside of the bushing. Insert the new rear sway bar bushings on the new rear sway bar INBOARD of the small sway bar flanges. Grease the outside of the sway bar bushing.
(R23.) Insert the new rear sway bar so that the ends of the sway bar are ABOVE the lower suspension arm.
(R24.) Reinstall the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets over the two (2) new rear sway bar bushings. Tighten the 13mm bolt and 13mm nut combination of the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets to a torque setting of 17 ft/lbs using the 13mm socket and 3/8” torque wrench.
(R25.) Install the new drop links between the ends of the rear sway bar and the drop link bracket extending from the Bilstein HD shock using a 15mm socket and a 16mm wrench positioned between the drop link and the rear sway bar. Do not completely tighten.
TIP: It is critical that the rear drop links are properly positioned and tighten, including the drop link bracket on the Bilstein HD shocks. Although it is possible to generally set the drop link orientation with the vehicle raised, it is easier to lower the rear of the car to put weight on the rear wheels. While doing so, you will then want to position the rear drop links and drop link brackets on the Bilstein HD shocks so that the end of the drop link bracket is in the same plane as the end of the rear sway bar when viewed directly from below. Once this is achieved, the rear drop links and drop link bracket/locking collar can be tightened. Proper positioning of these drop links ensure that the rear drop links do not break, twist, or contact the rear suspension components while driving.
(R26.) Tighten the 15mm nut on the rear drop links to a torque setting of 34 ft/lbs.
Last edited by InTheAir; 08-24-2011 at 04:46 PM.
03-09-2006, 09:38 PM
#4
Nordschleife Master
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INSTRUCTIONS – REAR SUSPENSION:
These instructions are for one side of the vehicle. You can either do both sides simultaneously or repeat the process once one side is done. However, you will need to have both rear wheels off the ground simultaneously.
REMOVING EXISTING REAR SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(R1.) Remove engine tray (if you haven’t already).
(R2.) Remove transmission tray by unlocking each of the five (5) Phillips head locking fasteners. The transmission tray is the plastic tray forward of the engine.
(R3.) Remove the 16mm nuts from the ends of the rear sway bar by inserting a 17mm open end wrench in between the link and bolt and using a 16mm wrench or socket.
(R4.) Remove each of the four (4) 13mm bolts/nuts from the two (2) U-shaped brackets that hold the rear sway bar to the vehicle cross-member using a 13mm socket and 13mm wrench.
(R5.) Mark the position of the rearward (relative to the vehicle) bolt that connects the lower suspension arm to the vehicle cross-member. This 19mm bolt is an “eccentric” that when turned from the rear of the vehicle will either push/pull the lower suspension arm to adjust the camber of the rear wheel. By marking the position of the rearward end of that bolt you will be able position it into the same location during reassembly. This will not be a perfect position for your alignment, but it will be close and provide you a reasonable setting to safely drive to your alignment shop.
(R6.) Remove the 19mm eccentric bolt (see picture above) described above using a 19mm socket on the eccentric bolt to prevent rotation and a 19mm wrench on the opposing 19mm nut (see picture below). This 19mm nut will require a lot of force to loosen in most cases. As you can see below, the 19mm bolt includes a fixed eccentric washer, a removable eccentric washer, and the 19mm nut. Note that both the fixed eccentric washer and removable eccentric washer are captured between small walls formed on the vehicle cross-member. These washers will need to fit back within these small walls during reassembly.
TIP: Some say that it is difficult to remove the 19mm eccentric bolt from the vehicle cross-member and lower suspension arm on the left side of the vehicle due to the heat exchanger being in the way. For some, this leads them to suggest lifting the engine a few millimeters using the floor jack to provide additional room. However, I found that if you simply rotate the eccentric bolt so that the fixed eccentric washer points downward, there is sufficient room to remove the 19mm eccentric bolt completely.
(R7.) Remove the now-freed lower suspension arm using a rubber mallet.
(R8.) Remove the 18mm nut from the opposing end of the lower suspension arm at the wheel assembly, BUT KEEP THE SPINDLE SHAFT IN PLACE TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY DURING THE NEXT STEP. To prevent the shaft from rotating while removing the 18mm nut, you will need to use a T-40 Torx socket in a 3/8” ratchet. With the T-40 Torx socket inserted into the end of the shaft, you will need to use an 18mm wrench to loosen and remove the bolt.
(R9.) Remove the airbox cover and air filter to provide at least some additional room to work on the right side of the vehicle.
(R10.) See TIP below. Remove each of the four (4) 13mm nuts at the top of the shock tower using a 13mm socket and 3/8” ratchet—you may need a 3” extension for some of the 13mm nuts. The space is very limited on the right side of the vehicle. Therefore, in some cases (such as illustrated below), you may need to remove the airbox in addition to the airbox cover.
TIP: Note the orientation of the small paint dot on the top of the shock tower/top spring perch. You will need to ensure that the orientation of the top spring perch is the same during reinstall. There may not be a paint dot; therefore, you should mark the proper perch orientation using a marker or other devise.
(R11.) Remove the existing rear shock/spring assembly by simply supporting the weight of the shock/spring assembly and removing the spindle shaft from the lower end of the shock.
(R12.) The standard rear shock/spring assembly does not employ a 21mm nut like the standard front assembly. However, you can remove the existing 18mm nut simply by apply a Vise-Grip® pliers to hold the top shaft of the shock itself. Once held, you can use an 18mm socket to remove the 18mm nut.
TIP: Some use a spring compressor to compress the existing spring during this process; however, this is not required at all. In fact, the assembly will not separate itself even once the nut is removed.
(R13.) Remove the existing 15mm nuts from the existing drop links using a 15mm wrench and a 9/32” Torx bit. These 15mm nuts will be used with the new drop links that came with the new Bilstein HD shocks.
PREPARING/INSTALLING NEW SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(R14.) Position the two lock collars on the lower shaft of the Bilstein HD shock to the desired height. If you do not have a pair of lock collar wrenches, you can loosen these lock collars using a flat head screwdriver placed in one of the notches and hitting with a hammer. Once loosened, position the lock collars to achieve the desired ride height, but do not completely tighten (just snug). This can NOT be easily varied after installation on the rear of the vehicle and will require partial disassembly to adjust the ride height.
TIP: If you are using the Bilstein HD shocks and the Porsche M030 ROW springs and you want to generally achieve the ROW Standard or Sport ride height, you can position the UPPER lock collar such that the TOP surface thereof is about 200mm from the centerline of the lower bushing. This will get you very close to the ROW settings, especially within the +/- 10mm tolerance.
TIP: If additional lowering/raising is desired, it is useful to know that for each 1mm adjustment on the shock will result in about a 2mm adjustment in fender height.
TIP: You may want to mark the relation of the locking collar to the shock body so that if the locking collar is inadvertently moved, it can be easily repositioned.
(R15.) Install the Porsche M030 spring on the lower spring perch. The rear M030 springs have a smaller coil diameter on one end—this smaller coil diameter should be on the bottom with the larger coil diameter end on the top.
(R16.) Install the existing washer/spacer, top spring perch, metal cup member, and NEW 19mm nut (in that order from lowest to highest) onto the Bilstein HD shock to capture the M030 spring. Be sure to use the new shock nut, which is a 19mm nut that came with the Bilstein HD shock, rather than the existing 21mm nut. Also be sure that the contour of the upper spring perch is properly positioned relative to the end of the M030 spring.
TIP: Due to the depth of the 19mm nut relative to the end of the shock shaft, which is fitted with a 6mm Allen slot, you will not be able to use the 19mm Hazet socket and 6mm Allen wrench technique that was used for the front as the Allen wrench will prevent the Hazet socket from reaching the 19mm nut as you fully tighten the nut. Therefore, you will need to use a 6mm Allen wrench and a 19mm wrench to tighten the assembly. The 21mm nut should be tightened to a torque setting of 43 ft/lbs. However, this may be difficult to gauge using the above tool arrangement. I simply tightened to my estimate of 43 ft/lbs and will have my alignment shop confirm.
(R17.) Reinstall the new shock/spring assembly in the shock tower in the orientation you noted prior to removal.
TIP: Some suggest having a helper hold the new shock/spring assembly in the shock tower while you hand tighten the four (4) 13mm nuts within the engine compartment. However, I found it easier to simply insert the new shock/spring assembly into the shock tower from below and quickly insert the spindle shaft of the lower suspension arm into the wheel assembly to capture and support the lower end of the new shock/spring assembly. This enabled me to then simply hand tighten the four (4) 13mm nuts within the engine compartment myself. You may need to use a rubber mallet to insert the lower end of the shock between the two flanges of the wheel assembly.
TIP: Note that when installing the M030 rear springs and Bilstein HD shocks, the M030 rear spring will not seat up within the upper spring perch—there will be a gap. However, once weight is applied to the rear wheels, the spring will properly seat itself.
(R18.) Tighten the 18mm nut from the end of the lower suspension arm at the wheel assembly. To prevent the shaft from rotating while tightening the 18mm nut, you will need to use a T-40 Torx socket in a 3/8” ratchet. With the T-40 Torx socket inserted into the end of the shaft, you will need to use an 18mm wrench to tighten the nut.
TIP: The 18mm nut should be tightened to a torque setting of 63 ft/lbs. However, this may be difficult to gauge using the above tool arrangement. I simply tightened to my estimate of 63 ft/lbs.
(R19.) Reinsert the opposing end of the lower suspension arm into the mounting location using a rubber mallet.
(R20.) Reinsert and tighten the 19mm eccentric bolt, removable eccentric washer, and 19mm nut noting the previous orientation prior to removal. This will at least reasonably set the toe setting of the rear wheel. Insure that both the fixed eccentric washer and removable eccentric washer are captured between the small walls formed on the vehicle cross-member.
(R21.) Tighten each of the four (4) 13mm nuts at the top of the shock tower using a 13mm socket and 3/8” ratchet.
INSTALLING REAR SWAY BAR
(R22.) Grease the inside of the two (2) new rear sway bar bushings. Spread it with your finger to evenly coat the inside of the bushing. Insert the new rear sway bar bushings on the new rear sway bar OUTBOARD of the small sway bar flanges. Grease the outside of the sway bar bushing.
(R23.) Insert the new rear sway bar so that the ends of the sway bar are ABOVE the lower suspension arm.
(R24.) Reinstall the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets over the two (2) new rear sway bar bushings. Tighten the 13mm bolt and 13mm nut combination of the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets to a torque setting of 17 ft/lbs using the 13mm socket and 3/8” torque wrench.
(R25.) Install the new drop links between the ends of the rear sway bar and the drop link bracket extending from the Bilstein HD shock using a 15mm socket and a 16mm wrench positioned between the drop link and the rear sway bar. Do not completely tighten.
TIP: It is critical that the rear drop links are properly positioned and tighten, including the drop link bracket on the Bilstein HD shocks. Although it is possible to generally set the drop link orientation with the vehicle raised, it is easier to lower the rear of the car to put weight on the rear wheels. While do so, you will then want to position the rear drop links and drop link brackets on the Bilstein HD shocks so that the end of the drop link bracket is in the same plane as the end of the rear sway bar when viewed directly from below. Once this is achieved, the rear drop links and drop link bracket/locking collar can be tightened. Proper positioning of these drop links ensure that the rear drop links do not break, twist, or contact the rear suspension components while driving.
(R26.) Tighten the 15mm nut on the rear drop links to a torque setting of 34 ft/lbs.
These instructions are for one side of the vehicle. You can either do both sides simultaneously or repeat the process once one side is done. However, you will need to have both rear wheels off the ground simultaneously.
REMOVING EXISTING REAR SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(R1.) Remove engine tray (if you haven’t already).
(R2.) Remove transmission tray by unlocking each of the five (5) Phillips head locking fasteners. The transmission tray is the plastic tray forward of the engine.
(R3.) Remove the 16mm nuts from the ends of the rear sway bar by inserting a 17mm open end wrench in between the link and bolt and using a 16mm wrench or socket.
(R4.) Remove each of the four (4) 13mm bolts/nuts from the two (2) U-shaped brackets that hold the rear sway bar to the vehicle cross-member using a 13mm socket and 13mm wrench.
(R5.) Mark the position of the rearward (relative to the vehicle) bolt that connects the lower suspension arm to the vehicle cross-member. This 19mm bolt is an “eccentric” that when turned from the rear of the vehicle will either push/pull the lower suspension arm to adjust the camber of the rear wheel. By marking the position of the rearward end of that bolt you will be able position it into the same location during reassembly. This will not be a perfect position for your alignment, but it will be close and provide you a reasonable setting to safely drive to your alignment shop.
(R6.) Remove the 19mm eccentric bolt (see picture above) described above using a 19mm socket on the eccentric bolt to prevent rotation and a 19mm wrench on the opposing 19mm nut (see picture below). This 19mm nut will require a lot of force to loosen in most cases. As you can see below, the 19mm bolt includes a fixed eccentric washer, a removable eccentric washer, and the 19mm nut. Note that both the fixed eccentric washer and removable eccentric washer are captured between small walls formed on the vehicle cross-member. These washers will need to fit back within these small walls during reassembly.
TIP: Some say that it is difficult to remove the 19mm eccentric bolt from the vehicle cross-member and lower suspension arm on the left side of the vehicle due to the heat exchanger being in the way. For some, this leads them to suggest lifting the engine a few millimeters using the floor jack to provide additional room. However, I found that if you simply rotate the eccentric bolt so that the fixed eccentric washer points downward, there is sufficient room to remove the 19mm eccentric bolt completely.
(R7.) Remove the now-freed lower suspension arm using a rubber mallet.
(R8.) Remove the 18mm nut from the opposing end of the lower suspension arm at the wheel assembly, BUT KEEP THE SPINDLE SHAFT IN PLACE TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY DURING THE NEXT STEP. To prevent the shaft from rotating while removing the 18mm nut, you will need to use a T-40 Torx socket in a 3/8” ratchet. With the T-40 Torx socket inserted into the end of the shaft, you will need to use an 18mm wrench to loosen and remove the bolt.
(R9.) Remove the airbox cover and air filter to provide at least some additional room to work on the right side of the vehicle.
(R10.) See TIP below. Remove each of the four (4) 13mm nuts at the top of the shock tower using a 13mm socket and 3/8” ratchet—you may need a 3” extension for some of the 13mm nuts. The space is very limited on the right side of the vehicle. Therefore, in some cases (such as illustrated below), you may need to remove the airbox in addition to the airbox cover.
TIP: Note the orientation of the small paint dot on the top of the shock tower/top spring perch. You will need to ensure that the orientation of the top spring perch is the same during reinstall. There may not be a paint dot; therefore, you should mark the proper perch orientation using a marker or other devise.
(R11.) Remove the existing rear shock/spring assembly by simply supporting the weight of the shock/spring assembly and removing the spindle shaft from the lower end of the shock.
(R12.) The standard rear shock/spring assembly does not employ a 21mm nut like the standard front assembly. However, you can remove the existing 18mm nut simply by apply a Vise-Grip® pliers to hold the top shaft of the shock itself. Once held, you can use an 18mm socket to remove the 18mm nut.
TIP: Some use a spring compressor to compress the existing spring during this process; however, this is not required at all. In fact, the assembly will not separate itself even once the nut is removed.
(R13.) Remove the existing 15mm nuts from the existing drop links using a 15mm wrench and a 9/32” Torx bit. These 15mm nuts will be used with the new drop links that came with the new Bilstein HD shocks.
PREPARING/INSTALLING NEW SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(R14.) Position the two lock collars on the lower shaft of the Bilstein HD shock to the desired height. If you do not have a pair of lock collar wrenches, you can loosen these lock collars using a flat head screwdriver placed in one of the notches and hitting with a hammer. Once loosened, position the lock collars to achieve the desired ride height, but do not completely tighten (just snug). This can NOT be easily varied after installation on the rear of the vehicle and will require partial disassembly to adjust the ride height.
TIP: If you are using the Bilstein HD shocks and the Porsche M030 ROW springs and you want to generally achieve the ROW Standard or Sport ride height, you can position the UPPER lock collar such that the TOP surface thereof is about 200mm from the centerline of the lower bushing. This will get you very close to the ROW settings, especially within the +/- 10mm tolerance.
TIP: If additional lowering/raising is desired, it is useful to know that for each 1mm adjustment on the shock will result in about a 2mm adjustment in fender height.
TIP: You may want to mark the relation of the locking collar to the shock body so that if the locking collar is inadvertently moved, it can be easily repositioned.
(R15.) Install the Porsche M030 spring on the lower spring perch. The rear M030 springs have a smaller coil diameter on one end—this smaller coil diameter should be on the bottom with the larger coil diameter end on the top.
(R16.) Install the existing washer/spacer, top spring perch, metal cup member, and NEW 19mm nut (in that order from lowest to highest) onto the Bilstein HD shock to capture the M030 spring. Be sure to use the new shock nut, which is a 19mm nut that came with the Bilstein HD shock, rather than the existing 21mm nut. Also be sure that the contour of the upper spring perch is properly positioned relative to the end of the M030 spring.
TIP: Due to the depth of the 19mm nut relative to the end of the shock shaft, which is fitted with a 6mm Allen slot, you will not be able to use the 19mm Hazet socket and 6mm Allen wrench technique that was used for the front as the Allen wrench will prevent the Hazet socket from reaching the 19mm nut as you fully tighten the nut. Therefore, you will need to use a 6mm Allen wrench and a 19mm wrench to tighten the assembly. The 21mm nut should be tightened to a torque setting of 43 ft/lbs. However, this may be difficult to gauge using the above tool arrangement. I simply tightened to my estimate of 43 ft/lbs and will have my alignment shop confirm.
(R17.) Reinstall the new shock/spring assembly in the shock tower in the orientation you noted prior to removal.
TIP: Some suggest having a helper hold the new shock/spring assembly in the shock tower while you hand tighten the four (4) 13mm nuts within the engine compartment. However, I found it easier to simply insert the new shock/spring assembly into the shock tower from below and quickly insert the spindle shaft of the lower suspension arm into the wheel assembly to capture and support the lower end of the new shock/spring assembly. This enabled me to then simply hand tighten the four (4) 13mm nuts within the engine compartment myself. You may need to use a rubber mallet to insert the lower end of the shock between the two flanges of the wheel assembly.
TIP: Note that when installing the M030 rear springs and Bilstein HD shocks, the M030 rear spring will not seat up within the upper spring perch—there will be a gap. However, once weight is applied to the rear wheels, the spring will properly seat itself.
(R18.) Tighten the 18mm nut from the end of the lower suspension arm at the wheel assembly. To prevent the shaft from rotating while tightening the 18mm nut, you will need to use a T-40 Torx socket in a 3/8” ratchet. With the T-40 Torx socket inserted into the end of the shaft, you will need to use an 18mm wrench to tighten the nut.
TIP: The 18mm nut should be tightened to a torque setting of 63 ft/lbs. However, this may be difficult to gauge using the above tool arrangement. I simply tightened to my estimate of 63 ft/lbs.
(R19.) Reinsert the opposing end of the lower suspension arm into the mounting location using a rubber mallet.
(R20.) Reinsert and tighten the 19mm eccentric bolt, removable eccentric washer, and 19mm nut noting the previous orientation prior to removal. This will at least reasonably set the toe setting of the rear wheel. Insure that both the fixed eccentric washer and removable eccentric washer are captured between the small walls formed on the vehicle cross-member.
(R21.) Tighten each of the four (4) 13mm nuts at the top of the shock tower using a 13mm socket and 3/8” ratchet.
INSTALLING REAR SWAY BAR
(R22.) Grease the inside of the two (2) new rear sway bar bushings. Spread it with your finger to evenly coat the inside of the bushing. Insert the new rear sway bar bushings on the new rear sway bar OUTBOARD of the small sway bar flanges. Grease the outside of the sway bar bushing.
(R23.) Insert the new rear sway bar so that the ends of the sway bar are ABOVE the lower suspension arm.
(R24.) Reinstall the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets over the two (2) new rear sway bar bushings. Tighten the 13mm bolt and 13mm nut combination of the two (2) U-shaped mounting brackets to a torque setting of 17 ft/lbs using the 13mm socket and 3/8” torque wrench.
(R25.) Install the new drop links between the ends of the rear sway bar and the drop link bracket extending from the Bilstein HD shock using a 15mm socket and a 16mm wrench positioned between the drop link and the rear sway bar. Do not completely tighten.
TIP: It is critical that the rear drop links are properly positioned and tighten, including the drop link bracket on the Bilstein HD shocks. Although it is possible to generally set the drop link orientation with the vehicle raised, it is easier to lower the rear of the car to put weight on the rear wheels. While do so, you will then want to position the rear drop links and drop link brackets on the Bilstein HD shocks so that the end of the drop link bracket is in the same plane as the end of the rear sway bar when viewed directly from below. Once this is achieved, the rear drop links and drop link bracket/locking collar can be tightened. Proper positioning of these drop links ensure that the rear drop links do not break, twist, or contact the rear suspension components while driving.
(R26.) Tighten the 15mm nut on the rear drop links to a torque setting of 34 ft/lbs.
03-09-2006, 09:41 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
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TORQUE SETTINGS AS STATED BY PORSCHE
Front Spring/Shock Assembly -
10mm Allen Bolt (Camber Adjustment) – 88 ft/lbs
18mm Bolt – 147 ft/lbs
13mm Nuts – 24 ft/lbs
22mm Shock Nut – 59 ft/lbs
Front Stabilizer Bar -
13mm Nuts to Vehicle Cross-member – 17 ft/lbs
Drop Link Nuts – 34 ft/lbs
Rear Spring/Shock Assembly -
Suspension Arm at Wheel Assembly – 63 ft/lbs
Suspension Arm 19mm Eccentric – (get tight as possible) 74 ft/lbs
13mm Nuts – 24 ft/lbs
18mm Shock Nut – 43 ft/lbs
Rear Stabilizer Bar -
13mm Nuts to Vehicle Cross-member – 17 ft/lbs
Drop Link Nuts – 34 ft/lbs
ALIGNMENT SETTINGS
Your alignment setting will depend on how you will be using the vehicle—for instance, pure track, pure street, or a combination of both. However, with all alignments, there will be a tradeoff between improved handling versus accelerated tire wear. That is, maximizing negative camber will generally improve the handling, but will dramatically reduce the life of your tires.
Talk with your trusted alignment shop to determine the settings that best suit you, your driving, and your particular vehicle (i.e. Carrera versus Carrera 4). However, the following guidelines can be used as a starting point for discussion (again, confirm with someone who is well-versed on this subject (I am not)):
Pure Street –
Front Negative Camber – about 0.5 to 0.75 degrees
Toe in – 1/16”
Rear Negative Camber – about 0.5 degrees MORE than Front Negative Camber
Track Use –
Front Negative Camber – maximize (probably will end up about 1.2 degrees)
Toe in – 1/32”
Caster – about 5.8 degrees
Rear Negative Camber – about 0.5 degrees MORE than Front Negative Camber (can reduce to about 0.3 degrees MORE than Front Negative Camber to provide more oversteer (combat understeer))
BEFORE & AFTER PHOTOS
Below you will see a series of photos illustrating my before and after's. To ensure consistency and to try to minimize optical effects, all of the pictures were taken from the same location, the car was parked in the same location (note the blue tape on the floor), and the camera was mounted on a tripod with the center of the lens about 25" off the floor.
Here are my pre-corner-balancing/pre-alignment fender heights:
LF = 25 3/8"
RF = 25 3/8"
LR = 25 1/8"
RR = 25 1/8"
and my pre-corner-balancing/pre-alignment reference heights:
LF = 130mm
RF = 130mm
LR = 117mm
RR = 117mm
In the rear, this puts me right between the ROW Sport height and the RS height. In fact, I'm right at the +/- 10mm tolerance of both (ROW Sport 127mm; RS 107mm). In the front, I'm a tad bit closer to the RS height than the ROW Sport height (ROW Sport 144mm; RS 124mm). Therefore, I will probably raise the fronts up to 134-136mm during the corner balancing process.
THE FIRST TWO ARE ANIMATIONS, SO GIVE THEM A SECOND TO LOAD. They will flip every 2 seconds.
Back nestled in bed...
Front Spring/Shock Assembly -
10mm Allen Bolt (Camber Adjustment) – 88 ft/lbs
18mm Bolt – 147 ft/lbs
13mm Nuts – 24 ft/lbs
22mm Shock Nut – 59 ft/lbs
Front Stabilizer Bar -
13mm Nuts to Vehicle Cross-member – 17 ft/lbs
Drop Link Nuts – 34 ft/lbs
Rear Spring/Shock Assembly -
Suspension Arm at Wheel Assembly – 63 ft/lbs
Suspension Arm 19mm Eccentric – (get tight as possible) 74 ft/lbs
13mm Nuts – 24 ft/lbs
18mm Shock Nut – 43 ft/lbs
Rear Stabilizer Bar -
13mm Nuts to Vehicle Cross-member – 17 ft/lbs
Drop Link Nuts – 34 ft/lbs
ALIGNMENT SETTINGS
Your alignment setting will depend on how you will be using the vehicle—for instance, pure track, pure street, or a combination of both. However, with all alignments, there will be a tradeoff between improved handling versus accelerated tire wear. That is, maximizing negative camber will generally improve the handling, but will dramatically reduce the life of your tires.
Talk with your trusted alignment shop to determine the settings that best suit you, your driving, and your particular vehicle (i.e. Carrera versus Carrera 4). However, the following guidelines can be used as a starting point for discussion (again, confirm with someone who is well-versed on this subject (I am not)):
Pure Street –
Front Negative Camber – about 0.5 to 0.75 degrees
Toe in – 1/16”
Rear Negative Camber – about 0.5 degrees MORE than Front Negative Camber
Track Use –
Front Negative Camber – maximize (probably will end up about 1.2 degrees)
Toe in – 1/32”
Caster – about 5.8 degrees
Rear Negative Camber – about 0.5 degrees MORE than Front Negative Camber (can reduce to about 0.3 degrees MORE than Front Negative Camber to provide more oversteer (combat understeer))
BEFORE & AFTER PHOTOS
Below you will see a series of photos illustrating my before and after's. To ensure consistency and to try to minimize optical effects, all of the pictures were taken from the same location, the car was parked in the same location (note the blue tape on the floor), and the camera was mounted on a tripod with the center of the lens about 25" off the floor.
Here are my pre-corner-balancing/pre-alignment fender heights:
LF = 25 3/8"
RF = 25 3/8"
LR = 25 1/8"
RR = 25 1/8"
and my pre-corner-balancing/pre-alignment reference heights:
LF = 130mm
RF = 130mm
LR = 117mm
RR = 117mm
In the rear, this puts me right between the ROW Sport height and the RS height. In fact, I'm right at the +/- 10mm tolerance of both (ROW Sport 127mm; RS 107mm). In the front, I'm a tad bit closer to the RS height than the ROW Sport height (ROW Sport 144mm; RS 124mm). Therefore, I will probably raise the fronts up to 134-136mm during the corner balancing process.
THE FIRST TWO ARE ANIMATIONS, SO GIVE THEM A SECOND TO LOAD. They will flip every 2 seconds.
Back nestled in bed...
Last edited by InTheAir; 08-24-2011 at 04:46 PM.
03-09-2006, 10:11 PM
#6
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FANTASTIC! Jeff, you not only pulled off this remarkable group buy (with VB), but have now made the install a no-brainer with your tutorial. Can't wait for my order to arrive!
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03-09-2006, 10:35 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
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Awesome write up Jeff! Thanks for taking the time to document the whole process for us newbies getting ready to give this a go. Makes it a lot easier when you've got some references.
03-09-2006, 10:38 PM
#10
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Jeff
This is a great piece of work - A real master class - Porsche should give you a free factory tour and spin around their new facility for this -You have gone the extra mile for the Pcar community -
Makes you wonder why brain surgeons get so much money when we could all do self medicate with instructions as explicit as these
.......... All we need now are the bits and I know VB is working on that.
This is a great piece of work - A real master class - Porsche should give you a free factory tour and spin around their new facility for this -You have gone the extra mile for the Pcar community -
Makes you wonder why brain surgeons get so much money when we could all do self medicate with instructions as explicit as these
.......... All we need now are the bits and I know VB is working on that.
03-09-2006, 10:42 PM
#11
Great job. This should double as a "how to post a DIY ". 
The most helpful post I've seen.
Bob's going to hate(love) you, his 55 customers are going to be 155 when people see these instructions.
The most helpful post I've seen. Bob's going to hate(love) you, his 55 customers are going to be 155 when people see these instructions.
03-09-2006, 10:45 PM
#12
Nordschleife Master
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Guys, thanks for the nice words. I hope it helps.
While you wait for the parts, you can make sure you have all of the necessary tools to complete the job. I had to do a little running around to get a some of the lesser used tools.
Thanks also for not mentioning how dirt my undercarriage is--it is on my spring cleaning listing. I just finished painting the rotor hats tonight, so they don't look as nasty as they do in the pictures.
While you wait for the parts, you can make sure you have all of the necessary tools to complete the job. I had to do a little running around to get a some of the lesser used tools.
Thanks also for not mentioning how dirt my undercarriage is--it is on my spring cleaning listing. I just finished painting the rotor hats tonight, so they don't look as nasty as they do in the pictures.
03-09-2006, 10:54 PM
#14
Thanks for all of your work. I wish every DIY were done in such an explicit manner. As soon as I've put together the funds I'm going to do this myself as well, confident following in your footsteps. Kudos...
Mark
Mark
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MartinM.no (03-09-2021)
03-09-2006, 11:33 PM
#15
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Jeff,
Your write-up is by far the best-organized, best-written DIY effort to grace the pages of Rennlist. Period. Bravo for a fantastic job.
This should inspire me to finally install the same setup (waiting in the garage...)
By the way, you must be a day ahead of everyone else - your 'publication' date shows March 10, 2006...
Andreas
Your write-up is by far the best-organized, best-written DIY effort to grace the pages of Rennlist. Period. Bravo for a fantastic job.
This should inspire me to finally install the same setup (waiting in the garage...)
By the way, you must be a day ahead of everyone else - your 'publication' date shows March 10, 2006...
Andreas