Evaporator replace DIY part 2: firewall fuse block and dash
03-28-2006, 01:30 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Evaporator replace DIY part 2: firewall fuse block and dash
OK - now that your tank is out of the way. You are now looking at the firewall and fuse block.
There are a few screws that hold the firewall in place.
Screws #1, 2 and 3 are on the drivers side. #1 screw, because of a spacer that is used looks like it does not have to come out. I however could not get the firewall out without removing this one. It is tight access here - my stubby would not fit. For the first time in my life of wrenching, I actually had a use for my 90 degree crastsman phillips head wrench. #2 and 3 are easy to get out.
Bolts #4 and 5 hold on what looks like a heat sink for the electronics of the wiring harness. Its basically a connector that plugs into an aluminum plate. I think its a heat sink. what do you think it is? When removing #4 and 5, you will need to hold the backside nut and washer. Amn 8 mm box is handy back there to prevent fastner from falling.
Also, now is a great time to remove the fuse block cover - it gives you more access to the bolts.
There are a few screws that hold the firewall in place.
Screws #1, 2 and 3 are on the drivers side. #1 screw, because of a spacer that is used looks like it does not have to come out. I however could not get the firewall out without removing this one. It is tight access here - my stubby would not fit. For the first time in my life of wrenching, I actually had a use for my 90 degree crastsman phillips head wrench. #2 and 3 are easy to get out.
Bolts #4 and 5 hold on what looks like a heat sink for the electronics of the wiring harness. Its basically a connector that plugs into an aluminum plate. I think its a heat sink. what do you think it is? When removing #4 and 5, you will need to hold the backside nut and washer. Amn 8 mm box is handy back there to prevent fastner from falling.
Also, now is a great time to remove the fuse block cover - it gives you more access to the bolts.
03-28-2006, 01:39 AM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Fuse block removal
The fuse block is integrated into the firewall. In the pic below, you can now see the #4 bolt and 3 other screws that must come out.
Inside the fuse block, the black retaining nut actually has a phillips head screw inside it. There is also an allen that faces the shock tower that comes out as well.
Ball ended allen wrench is handy, but not necessary since the shock tower is in the way.
Inside the fuse block, the black retaining nut actually has a phillips head screw inside it. There is also an allen that faces the shock tower that comes out as well.
Ball ended allen wrench is handy, but not necessary since the shock tower is in the way.
03-28-2006, 01:44 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Now its time to move the fuses and wiring harness out of the way. Definitely need fender cover and bungee to insure that fuse block and wiring harness does not get in the way of the firewall removal.
You cant see it, but there is a screw in the firewall. it is behind the wiring harness. Stubby philips is a requirement.
The last bolt is shown, its the last fastner before the firewall comes out.
You cant see it, but there is a screw in the firewall. it is behind the wiring harness. Stubby philips is a requirement.
The last bolt is shown, its the last fastner before the firewall comes out.
Last edited by tj90; 03-28-2006 at 10:28 AM.
03-28-2006, 01:54 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Airbox exposed
Ahh, A thing of beauty - the airbox.
I labelled some of the components in the picture. You can see the airbox drains - the white tubing. You can also see the air intake grill below the windshield.
SInce you are under the hood, go ahead and remove both pollen filter covers and the filters themselves. The covers are the two thumb screws and the filters are keyed so that the tabs face upward. Make note when you take the filters out.
Go ahead and remove the grill and retainer frame. If it has not been done, now is the time to repaint the grill. Inside the grill, there are 2 bolts that hold the airbox intake - go ahead and remove them as well.
You can also see the 2 airconditioning lines that are going to the expansion valve.
Dont remove those yet, we have stuff to do under the dash.
I labelled some of the components in the picture. You can see the airbox drains - the white tubing. You can also see the air intake grill below the windshield.
SInce you are under the hood, go ahead and remove both pollen filter covers and the filters themselves. The covers are the two thumb screws and the filters are keyed so that the tabs face upward. Make note when you take the filters out.
Go ahead and remove the grill and retainer frame. If it has not been done, now is the time to repaint the grill. Inside the grill, there are 2 bolts that hold the airbox intake - go ahead and remove them as well.
You can also see the 2 airconditioning lines that are going to the expansion valve.
Dont remove those yet, we have stuff to do under the dash.
03-28-2006, 02:02 AM
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Under the dash...
You will now need to remove the climate control unit (CCU) in the dash. The best way to do this, if you dont have a tool, is to make one out of a heavy duty coat hanger. Do not attempt to use a standard wire coat hanger - it did not work for me.
There are 2 electrical connections on the back of the CCU. I took a picture to give you an idea how they disconnect. They swivel lock into place. Take your time and look at the mechanism. Once you understand it, they are easy to remove.
Also, the radio will need to come out as well. Mine was aftermarket, so I dont know what you need to do for stock radios. I got really frustrated at this point because I could not get remove the radio. I called a car installation place and luckily, I talked to a guy who told me the secret. Probably not a secret to anyone who installs head units for a living.
Might be wise to remove the radio prior to starting this DIY. This way you can drive to the stereo installation place, instead of depending on lady luck to hook you up with a knowledgeble radio installer. (Side note: Dont waste your time calling Best Buy. The 16 YO on the other end of the line suggested a screw driver as a pry bar!
There are 2 electrical connections on the back of the CCU. I took a picture to give you an idea how they disconnect. They swivel lock into place. Take your time and look at the mechanism. Once you understand it, they are easy to remove.
Also, the radio will need to come out as well. Mine was aftermarket, so I dont know what you need to do for stock radios. I got really frustrated at this point because I could not get remove the radio. I called a car installation place and luckily, I talked to a guy who told me the secret. Probably not a secret to anyone who installs head units for a living.
Might be wise to remove the radio prior to starting this DIY. This way you can drive to the stereo installation place, instead of depending on lady luck to hook you up with a knowledgeble radio installer. (Side note: Dont waste your time calling Best Buy. The 16 YO on the other end of the line suggested a screw driver as a pry bar!
03-28-2006, 02:05 AM
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Glove box removal.
The porsche manual says that you must remove the glove box. I did. In retrospect, you may not have to. It does give you more access, but I dont think its a requirement. You may wish to skip this step, and try airbox removal without removing glove box.
Im sorry, I dont have any pictures of the glove box but I will leave you with a few tidbits.
The face is held in place by 3 phillips screws at the bottom of the dash. There are 2 swivel brackets that must be unhooked from the dash. When removing dash cover be careful that under dash wiring is not preventing the hooks from coming out of the dash. I found that the right side hook was much harder to remove. There is a metal retainer that is held in place with phillips screw. I removed this for the glove box cover to be removed. Finally, the GB liner must come out. I think there are ~6 screws that hold the liner.
Im sorry, I dont have any pictures of the glove box but I will leave you with a few tidbits.
The face is held in place by 3 phillips screws at the bottom of the dash. There are 2 swivel brackets that must be unhooked from the dash. When removing dash cover be careful that under dash wiring is not preventing the hooks from coming out of the dash. I found that the right side hook was much harder to remove. There is a metal retainer that is held in place with phillips screw. I removed this for the glove box cover to be removed. Finally, the GB liner must come out. I think there are ~6 screws that hold the liner.
03-28-2006, 02:22 AM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
3 nuts under the dash.
If you look into the holes where your CCU and radio used to be, you will see 3 nuts that hold the lower portion of the airbox in place.
I tried to take a picture of these, but it was hard since the flash was reflecting off the dash and not in the hole. 2 nuts are behind the CCU and the 3rd is behind the radio.
The first pic shows the CCU hole and the second pic shows the radio hole. These three nuts need to be removed. (I incorrectly call them bolts in the pictures)
I tried to take a picture of these, but it was hard since the flash was reflecting off the dash and not in the hole. 2 nuts are behind the CCU and the 3rd is behind the radio.
The first pic shows the CCU hole and the second pic shows the radio hole. These three nuts need to be removed. (I incorrectly call them bolts in the pictures)
Last edited by tj90; 03-28-2006 at 10:30 AM.
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03-28-2006, 02:25 AM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
In the last post, I outline a vacuum relay that actuates the baffles below the airbox. There is a vacuum line that is feeding this thing. Disconnect the line.
Also note that you must be careful not to damage this relay when taking out and reinstalling airbox. Its hanging out in the wind and could be damaged.
We are just about ready to remove the airbox, so get back to under the hood and I will explain this portion of the DIY in part 3.
Good night!
Also note that you must be careful not to damage this relay when taking out and reinstalling airbox. Its hanging out in the wind and could be damaged.
We are just about ready to remove the airbox, so get back to under the hood and I will explain this portion of the DIY in part 3.
Good night!
Last edited by tj90; 03-28-2006 at 10:31 AM.
03-28-2006, 01:12 PM
#11
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Not sure how to combine threads now so I will continue with the 3 parts. I will also create a thread that points to all 3 parts as well as other helpful threads from the 964/993 forums. Kinda like a metaindex.
03-28-2006, 01:21 PM
#13
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
TJ90,
You can just dump everything in a WORD document including all the pictures and then I can sort it out and create a HTML page for it and post it on p-car.com and everyone can just access it with a link.
Great work on this DIY! In a way it is actually very exciting to be waiting for the next episode!
You can just dump everything in a WORD document including all the pictures and then I can sort it out and create a HTML page for it and post it on p-car.com and everyone can just access it with a link.
Great work on this DIY! In a way it is actually very exciting to be waiting for the next episode!
03-28-2006, 01:38 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
WOW
Robin - aka the god of 993 diy - has invited my post on pcar.com!!! I am honored to contribute! 
Its kind of like getting published in a scientific journal!
Its kind of like getting published in a scientific journal!
