Engine Blower Termp sensor
01-13-2007, 08:53 PM
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Engine Blower Termp sensor
Just bought a 993 - 1995 C4 cabrio
Previous owner said had a problem with de-misting the windscreen
I checked in the engine compartment - and virtually straightwaway found that the engine blower disconnected...
re-connected it - obviously should have waited until after I had bought it ....to haggle down the price
anyway,
my 3 questions were:
engine blower seems to have LONG overrun period after ignition swtitched off.
Check on here - and found useful diagnostics for checking engine etc. sensor,
therefore - had another look in the engine bay - and seems the wiring that runs to the temp sensor ( in the large black plastic pipe ) is briken - as you can pull out the wire from inside!!!! ( so presume false temp reading may be making the blower over-run for longer than usual.
( Q1 ) Can anyone post a picture of their pre-Varioram engine bay on this side,
and give any tips on how easy it will be to dismantle the blower pipe,
and re-solder the broken wires?
( Q2 ) the reason I asked for a photo, is that the 'plug' for the wires loosk liek the type that slots into a metal bracket, to hol it in place,
BUT- the plug is 'floating free' and I can't see any bracket ( within reach of the wire ) that it could slot back into.
(q / rant 3 ) and on a side issue - little bit worried that there are lots of invoices from a reputable UK garage showing maintenance over past 3 years - but owner has said the blower/windscreen problem has been around for a long while
therefore presume he's mentioned this to the garage,
even if he's not mentioned it - - - - how could they not spot disconected wires in the engine bay - that you can see without sticking your head inside the engine bay.......???
Thanks for any help
T
Previous owner said had a problem with de-misting the windscreen
I checked in the engine compartment - and virtually straightwaway found that the engine blower disconnected...
re-connected it - obviously should have waited until after I had bought it ....to haggle down the price
anyway,
my 3 questions were:
engine blower seems to have LONG overrun period after ignition swtitched off.
Check on here - and found useful diagnostics for checking engine etc. sensor,
therefore - had another look in the engine bay - and seems the wiring that runs to the temp sensor ( in the large black plastic pipe ) is briken - as you can pull out the wire from inside!!!! ( so presume false temp reading may be making the blower over-run for longer than usual.
( Q1 ) Can anyone post a picture of their pre-Varioram engine bay on this side,
and give any tips on how easy it will be to dismantle the blower pipe,
and re-solder the broken wires?
( Q2 ) the reason I asked for a photo, is that the 'plug' for the wires loosk liek the type that slots into a metal bracket, to hol it in place,
BUT- the plug is 'floating free' and I can't see any bracket ( within reach of the wire ) that it could slot back into.
(q / rant 3 ) and on a side issue - little bit worried that there are lots of invoices from a reputable UK garage showing maintenance over past 3 years - but owner has said the blower/windscreen problem has been around for a long while
therefore presume he's mentioned this to the garage,
even if he's not mentioned it - - - - how could they not spot disconected wires in the engine bay - that you can see without sticking your head inside the engine bay.......???
Thanks for any help
T
01-13-2007, 10:28 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
I can post pics tomorrow (PST) if no one else does.
Your assumption is correct, that issue will make the blower run for 20 minutes after you shut down.
The wire on that connector is held in place by a clip on the fuel injection rail under the piping. If the clip is missing you could just wire tie it. There isn't anything between that clip and the snesor to hold it in place.
Also something to keep in mind: I recently found that the temp sensor connector and a connector nearby (to a vacuum solenoid) are identical. They can be revesred, though the wire routing is not optimal. This will also cause the blower to run for 20 minutes.
Your assumption is correct, that issue will make the blower run for 20 minutes after you shut down.
The wire on that connector is held in place by a clip on the fuel injection rail under the piping. If the clip is missing you could just wire tie it. There isn't anything between that clip and the snesor to hold it in place.
Also something to keep in mind: I recently found that the temp sensor connector and a connector nearby (to a vacuum solenoid) are identical. They can be revesred, though the wire routing is not optimal. This will also cause the blower to run for 20 minutes.
01-15-2007, 08:54 AM
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Hi Mark D - many thanks for posting the pics -
it's the plug in your 3rd picture, bottom left, witht he cable that comes from bottom left, then turns back on itself and 'connect' to the blower pipe.
The gasket/washer etc. fof the plug has been pulled out of the blower pipe on mine -
so I need to dismantle the blower pipe:
(1) to refit the grommet/gasket/ to hold the connector in place
and
(2) to re-solder the wires that connect to the temp sensor ( presume inside the tempsensor or on the end? ).
is it worth buying a new tempsensor if they're prone to failure over time?
Can anyone give any do's or don't's for this job?
Thanks
T
it's the plug in your 3rd picture, bottom left, witht he cable that comes from bottom left, then turns back on itself and 'connect' to the blower pipe.
The gasket/washer etc. fof the plug has been pulled out of the blower pipe on mine -
so I need to dismantle the blower pipe:
(1) to refit the grommet/gasket/ to hold the connector in place
and
(2) to re-solder the wires that connect to the temp sensor ( presume inside the tempsensor or on the end? ).
is it worth buying a new tempsensor if they're prone to failure over time?
Can anyone give any do's or don't's for this job?
Thanks
T
01-15-2007, 12:26 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Stuart posted the pics 
1- Pipe is easy to remove. Remove the 2 screws wit hthe 10mm heads first, then remove theblack plastic piece the they screwed into. The loosen the large clamp at the top of the piece you want to remove. Pull it out and be sure to not lose the rubber grommet at the base of the duct. I thin this diy will help? The first part covers removing this pipe/duct. http://p-car.com/diy/distributor/distributor.html
Regarding the temp sensor, you can test it if you want to (thanks to Jason Andreas): https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...90&postcount=9
I have never heard they are prone to failure but if yours is physically broken, I'd just replace it. I'm not clear on what is broken, connector/plug or sensor.
1- Pipe is easy to remove. Remove the 2 screws wit hthe 10mm heads first, then remove theblack plastic piece the they screwed into. The loosen the large clamp at the top of the piece you want to remove. Pull it out and be sure to not lose the rubber grommet at the base of the duct. I thin this diy will help? The first part covers removing this pipe/duct. http://p-car.com/diy/distributor/distributor.html
Regarding the temp sensor, you can test it if you want to (thanks to Jason Andreas): https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...90&postcount=9
I have never heard they are prone to failure but if yours is physically broken, I'd just replace it. I'm not clear on what is broken, connector/plug or sensor.
01-15-2007, 12:48 PM
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Apologies! 
THanks Stuart and Andreas for posting the pics.
THink I'll probably replace my heat sensor - as it is pretty broken - half the plug has been snapped off, ( the 'female part that si seated in the blower tube ) and the the wires have been pulled out from inside it!
though at £50 GBP + VAT for a replacement I might have a quick try with a soldering iron first.
T
THanks Stuart and Andreas for posting the pics.THink I'll probably replace my heat sensor - as it is pretty broken - half the plug has been snapped off, ( the 'female part that si seated in the blower tube ) and the the wires have been pulled out from inside it!
though at £50 GBP + VAT for a replacement I might have a quick try with a soldering iron first.
T