DougM

I searched and could not find a write up. Could someone direct me if there is one. I need to replace all 4 hood and deck struts. It is very tight quarters and figured there are some tips/tricks somewhere.

Ed Burdell

Some pull it off with aplomb, while others are all thumbs. I will be in the latter category when I get up the nerve to do mine...

I've heard magnetic retrieval tools come in handy, as the little clips tend to fly off if they're opened too fully...again, I've never done these myself, but that's what the hearsay here has been.

Michael S.

I just did my hood shocks... You can pull the clips back on the old struts if you wish. It will make them easier to remove. However, I found it easiest to just apply a bit of lithium grease and pop the new ones onto the ball... Pulling the clips back tends to "spring" them, and they aren't as tight after that.

Haven't tackled my rear struts yet, as they still hold the deck lid up, so I'm not sure how difficult they will be. The fronts are not that bad... Just hard to see where you're going. A good light and a long shafted common screwdriver (and a good bit of patience) help. Be sure to have something to prop the hood open with also... Or have a helper handy. Took me about 20 minutes to do both.

BobbyT

Here is the link to my article on this topic:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...hood_strut.htm

Crimson Nape Racing

The back struts are easy. I may have removed a couple bits to get access, but that was almost a year ago and don't remember. Unlike Bobby's article, I could not remove the front passenger clip to save my life, but the new heavy-duty strut on the driver's side along with the original on the passenger's side was enough to hold up the hood, so I'll wait and fight that battle when I have to.

Ed Burdell

OK, in the interest of science, I replaced the front passenger strut just now. Here's what I learned:

The dental floss thru the retainer clip ploy works well - I would have had a lil' situation had I not done so.

Lowering the hood a foot before removing the pin will compress the strut enough so the top of the strut can be disengaged from the deck lid bracket, for want of a better term.

Once the top of the strut is out of the way, you have much better access to reaching the lower ball end with a normal length screwdriver. I chose to operate on the integral clip - there's a flat place on the back of the ball socket to do this - prying it away from the ball socket . Once it's loose enough, you can twist the strut completely off.

Reinstallation requires no such shenanigans - just pop the new strut socket onto the ball, get the top of the strut back in place (perhaps it would be slicker to do this first, before reattaching the bottom end), and then reinstall pin and clip.

Sidebar notes: My old strut had a black plastic sleeve over it. I removed it and replaced it on the new strut at some point. Also, when I was pulling the pin out, my pliers gouged up the head of the pin. Either use a more benign tool, or tape or otherwise cushion the jaws before using them on the pin.

Crimson Nape Racing

I will give it another try. After I typed my response, I realized the one good shock is probably working extra hard and will have a shorter life because of this.

kjr914

look here:
http://pcarworkshop.com/index.php/Main_Page

brucec59

To avoid losing small bits, you can lay a shop towel (must be a SHOP towel - a regular bath towel will not do ) over the engine below the area you're working on.

mstolo

Try this link. I had put my two cents in.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ks-how-to.html

Good luck.

Black993

+993 on the towel in the engine bay for the rears. Otherwise the clips will end up in the abyss. Rears are not hard at all

TMc993

EDIT: Never mind...I didn't read far enough before posting.