R&R Pad Rotor Question...

arenared911cab · 11-06-2009, 07:18 PM

I'm starting my Pad/Rotor replacement today, and will be painting the calipers. Is there any reason to keep the brake line attatched if I plan a complete flushing once finished? Is there some sort of hidden nightmare if I disconnect? Or is it simply reconnecting and doing a complete flush?

trophy · 11-06-2009, 07:55 PM

No reason, just be sure you clean it before undoing to ensure absolutly no crap gets into the caliper.

NC TRACKRAT · 11-06-2009, 08:32 PM

I have been told that if air gets into the ABS, it can be an unholy bitch to bleed. Personally, I would avoid it or, at least, plug the brake line fittings as soon as you disconnect to avoid air backing up into the system.

Mike J · 11-06-2009, 10:11 PM

I have done it both ways, found that disconnecting the line from the calipet (if its not been off) is a challenge. Make sure you have a GOOD flare wrench. You also need a rubber plug to plug the brake line from leaking out all the fluid, and as was said, on the ABD or ABS gets air, lots of trouble to get it all out again.

IMHO, its not worth the trouble...paint the calipers on the car, change the pads, and drive it.

Cheers,

Mike

arenared911cab · 11-07-2009, 02:58 AM

Sooooooo lets just say I have a freind who also owns a 993 and is also doing the brakes (I know!!!... quite the coincidence, huh) that tried to plug the line but apparently (so he tells me) he didn't do a good enough job and let the reservoir drain...I know, what kind of dummy would do that!

So I can pass this info to him,
1)what are the odds the abs has air
2)Wht do I ...does he...do about it

He would very much appreciate any assistance

ReinerFink · 11-07-2009, 03:41 AM

Get friendly with a dealer. Do the best you can bleeding via the normal procedure. Then drive car to dealer. Remove RR wheel, attach catch bottle to bleeder screw, open it, attach pressure bleeder. Hook up the Hammer/PST2/PWIS/PWIS2 to the ODB port and tell the ABS pump to "bleed". It will activate and run for 45 seconds or so and in the process pump about 12oz of brake fluid out of the RR caliper.

-reiner

arenared911cab · 11-07-2009, 04:44 PM

ReinerFink, A previous post mentioned you can turn ignition on then off the start up abs pump, then bleed, and do this several times to accomplish the same thing, does that make sense? We don't have a dealer in Kelowna, so I need DIT solutions. I have power bleeder and lots of time...

NC TRACKRAT · 11-08-2009, 01:48 PM

If your "friend" has plenty of fresh brake fluid and plenty of time, what the heck, give it a try! Maybe it didn't get so low as to get air in the ABS. Don't forget, if the fluid level got down too far, the clutch slave cylinder may also have air in the system. You'll find out soon enough.

arenared911cab · 11-08-2009, 03:13 PM

Since its a Tip, doesn't that elliminate the clutch slave thing...and does it make a difference as to what wheel...And now that I've done this will it make much differenceif I take off the rest of the calipers, or will that just compound my air issues. Since I'm in a wheelchair, I decided to take off the caliper to paint as it would be difficult to paint "on the car". So ideally I'd like to take the remaining calipers off, one at a time, plug the lines properly, then bleed the heck out of it using cheap DOT 4 and then finish of with the good stuff. Does this throw up any red flags for anyone?

ReinerFink · 11-08-2009, 03:30 PM

[quote=arenared911cab;7055653]ReinerFink, A previous post mentioned you can turn ignition on then off the start up abs pumpQUOTE]

The only way I know to get the ABS pump to run is to have the proper PST2/PWIS computer to tell it to run, or to go romp on the brake pedal at 30mph and get the abs to kick in.

When you turn the ignition on a in an AWD car and you hear a "bzzzzzzz" noise, that is the hydraulic brake booster pump putting pressure into the accumulator. That is not the ABS pump, which will only run when its told to by the ABS computer (when wheel speeds are mismatched).

I have heard of people doing a normal bleed, then driving around and getting into the ABS, and then doing another bleed. I haven't tried that so can't tell you how effective it is.

-reiner

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems · 11-08-2009, 03:55 PM

JMHO, but you either need to plug the lines to prevent the MC & ABS unit from getting air or have access to a Hammer or PST-2 to properly bleed the system.

Sounds like the former idea would be easier, given your location.

jimq · 11-08-2009, 04:58 PM

All you need to do is wedge the brake pedal down with a piece of wood between the pedal and the seat or something similar and the fluid wont drain out of the open lines.

11-06-2009, 07:18 PM	#1
arenared911cab Addict Rennlist Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Kelowna, BC Posts: 64	R&R Pad Rotor Question... I'm starting my Pad/Rotor replacement today, and will be painting the calipers. Is there any reason to keep the brake line attatched if I plan a complete flushing once finished? Is there some sort of hidden nightmare if I disconnect? Or is it simply reconnecting and doing a complete flush? __________________ Rob _______________________________ '96 Arenared Cab (my happy place) '08 Chrys Pacifica (family hauler) "The best view..."

11-06-2009, 07:55 PM	#2
trophy Addict Rennlist Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Where the track is CLOSED for winter! Posts: 334	No reason, just be sure you clean it before undoing to ensure absolutly no crap gets into the caliper. __________________ Steven *Now* 1995 993 C2 - KW Clubsport Coilovers, TRG Sway Bars, Custom Droplinks, OMP Strut Brace, Walrod Bushings, DasSport Rollbar, Big Reds, Custom Mufflers, Cup Air Box, Steve Wong Chip, HID's, OMP Carbon Seats, 8.5" & 10" Forgelines. 2002 BMW 330 Ci - Daily Driver *Then* 2000 Subaru STI 1982 924 Turbo (First Porsche, sadly missed) 1973 914-6 1972 914

11-06-2009, 08:32 PM	#3
NC TRACKRAT Addict Rennlist Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Winston-Salem, NC Posts: 530	I have been told that if air gets into the ABS, it can be an unholy bitch to bleed. Personally, I would avoid it or, at least, plug the brake line fittings as soon as you disconnect to avoid air backing up into the system. __________________ 1995 993 Carrera Coupe Black/Black 13k mi. FABSPEED, ltd. slip, Nakamichi/McIntosh/MBQuart 1998 993 C2S Red/Black, 41k mi. PSS9, FABSPEED,RS Bars, CDR210 Other vehicles: 2003 MINI Cooper S, 2005 MINI Cooper S, 1965 Shelby GT350, 1966 Shelby GT350, 2000 F250 SD.

11-06-2009, 10:11 PM	#4
Mike J Addict Lifetime Rennlist Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 2,812	I have done it both ways, found that disconnecting the line from the calipet (if its not been off) is a challenge. Make sure you have a GOOD flare wrench. You also need a rubber plug to plug the brake line from leaking out all the fluid, and as was said, on the ABD or ABS gets air, lots of trouble to get it all out again. IMHO, its not worth the trouble...paint the calipers on the car, change the pads, and drive it. Cheers, Mike __________________ Mike 96 993 Targa - Polar Silver Euro Turbo Bumper, RS Tail, PSS-9's, RS Sways, Sparco Seats, DIY rebuilt engine, RS Clutch/Flywheel, RS Pulley, new Targa roof, HID Lights, DIY Hella turbo duct lights, 1.5" LPMM's, 19" RUFs, 340mm Atiwe steering wheel, deleted bumperettes (front/back), deleted headlight washers, Split Grill, *whew Check out http://www.pcarworkshop.com

11-07-2009, 02:58 AM	#5
arenared911cab Addict Rennlist Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Kelowna, BC Posts: 64	Sooooooo lets just say I have a freind who also owns a 993 and is also doing the brakes (I know!!!... quite the coincidence, huh) that tried to plug the line but apparently (so he tells me) he didn't do a good enough job and let the reservoir drain...I know, what kind of dummy would do that! So I can pass this info to him, 1)what are the odds the abs has air 2)Wht do I ...does he...do about it He would very much appreciate any assistance __________________ Rob _______________________________ '96 Arenared Cab (my happy place) '08 Chrys Pacifica (family hauler) "The best view..."

11-07-2009, 03:41 AM	#6
ReinerFink Addict Rennlist Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 94	Get friendly with a dealer. Do the best you can bleeding via the normal procedure. Then drive car to dealer. Remove RR wheel, attach catch bottle to bleeder screw, open it, attach pressure bleeder. Hook up the Hammer/PST2/PWIS/PWIS2 to the ODB port and tell the ABS pump to "bleed". It will activate and run for 45 seconds or so and in the process pump about 12oz of brake fluid out of the RR caliper. -reiner

11-07-2009, 04:44 PM	#7
arenared911cab Addict Rennlist Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Kelowna, BC Posts: 64	ReinerFink, A previous post mentioned you can turn ignition on then off the start up abs pump, then bleed, and do this several times to accomplish the same thing, does that make sense? We don't have a dealer in Kelowna, so I need DIT solutions. I have power bleeder and lots of time... __________________ Rob _______________________________ '96 Arenared Cab (my happy place) '08 Chrys Pacifica (family hauler) "The best view..."

11-08-2009, 01:48 PM	#8
NC TRACKRAT Addict Rennlist Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Winston-Salem, NC Posts: 530	If your "friend" has plenty of fresh brake fluid and plenty of time, what the heck, give it a try! Maybe it didn't get so low as to get air in the ABS. Don't forget, if the fluid level got down too far, the clutch slave cylinder may also have air in the system. You'll find out soon enough. __________________ 1995 993 Carrera Coupe Black/Black 13k mi. FABSPEED, ltd. slip, Nakamichi/McIntosh/MBQuart 1998 993 C2S Red/Black, 41k mi. PSS9, FABSPEED,RS Bars, CDR210 Other vehicles: 2003 MINI Cooper S, 2005 MINI Cooper S, 1965 Shelby GT350, 1966 Shelby GT350, 2000 F250 SD.

11-08-2009, 03:13 PM	#9
arenared911cab Addict Rennlist Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Kelowna, BC Posts: 64	Since its a Tip, doesn't that elliminate the clutch slave thing...and does it make a difference as to what wheel...And now that I've done this will it make much differenceif I take off the rest of the calipers, or will that just compound my air issues. Since I'm in a wheelchair, I decided to take off the caliper to paint as it would be difficult to paint "on the car". So ideally I'd like to take the remaining calipers off, one at a time, plug the lines properly, then bleed the heck out of it using cheap DOT 4 and then finish of with the good stuff. Does this throw up any red flags for anyone? __________________ Rob _______________________________ '96 Arenared Cab (my happy place) '08 Chrys Pacifica (family hauler) "The best view..."

11-08-2009, 03:30 PM	#10
ReinerFink Addict Rennlist Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 94	[quote=arenared911cab;7055653]ReinerFink, A previous post mentioned you can turn ignition on then off the start up abs pumpQUOTE] The only way I know to get the ABS pump to run is to have the proper PST2/PWIS computer to tell it to run, or to go romp on the brake pedal at 30mph and get the abs to kick in. When you turn the ignition on a in an AWD car and you hear a "bzzzzzzz" noise, that is the hydraulic brake booster pump putting pressure into the accumulator. That is not the ABS pump, which will only run when its told to by the ABS computer (when wheel speeds are mismatched). I have heard of people doing a normal bleed, then driving around and getting into the ABS, and then doing another bleed. I haven't tried that so can't tell you how effective it is. -reiner

11-08-2009, 03:55 PM	#11
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems Addict Rennlist Technical Specialist Rennlist Lifetime Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 7,062	JMHO, but you either need to plug the lines to prevent the MC & ABS unit from getting air or have access to a Hammer or PST-2 to properly bleed the system. Sounds like the former idea would be easier, given your location. __________________ Steve Weiner Rennsport Systems Portland Oregon 503.244.0990 For Performance Parts and Upgrades, Machine Shop Services, & Technical Information, visit us on the Internet at: http://www.rennsportsystems.com E-mail: porsche@rennsportsystems.com

11-08-2009, 04:58 PM	#12
jimq Burgled Rennlist Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Altamonte Springs, Fl/Gwynns Island, Va. Posts: 11,733	All you need to do is wedge the brake pedal down with a piece of wood between the pedal and the seat or something similar and the fluid wont drain out of the open lines. __________________ jim *Conservatives....We work hard so you don't have to* 91 White C2 Cab tiptronic 03 Black 996TT X-50 Grocery getter 2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L Gas Hog Bend-Pak Scissor Lift 64 230SL Mercedes (SOLD after 18 years ) Some other Porsche's