dmwallace

diet97993,

Thanks for this advice. How long did you drive the first part of the cycle (< 30mph, <3000rpm) and did you add time to acount for stop signs, traffic lights, etc.? My neighborhood is right in town and there are a number of signs and lights to go through before I can get to the highway needed for the 2nd part of the cycle.

Also, if the drive cycle is successful should I see the incomplete codes go away in the real-time monitor display of my scanner? Or does the engine need to be turned off, and then cranked again, in order for the computer to determine that those incomplete codes are now complete?

diet97993

dmwallace - Started engine cold and let it idle for 2 minutes 10 seconds. The second part is a little tricker. I tried to maintain 25 mph the best I could and keep the RPM around 2000. If you run a little longer to compensate for lights and stop signs didn't seem to matter. I started out making right turns as much as possible inorder to stay with the flow of traffic within my residential area. If you run over the 3 minutes it didn't seem to matter. just be consistant as you can with speed and RPM. I ran as long as 4 to 5 minutes in some cases due to traffic conditions for the low speed portion of the drive cycle. The major change like I mentioned before is < 60 (58) and < 3000 (2800) if you go longer in any of the steps it didn't seem to matter. The cool down in my case was approximately 5 hours before I repeated the cycle. after the second cycle I shut the engine down plugged in the scanner and the readiness codes we gone. you will definately know when your second cycle is complete. I know it's frustrating, but keep trying. I hope this information helps. Cheers!

Don

dmwallace

Thanks, I will give it another try this weekend and will report the results.

mbriggs993

Very valuable information in this thread. 993BillW said that to use the the Code Reader you need to disable the Immobilizer. How do I disable the Immobilizer and is that required to use the code reader to test the codes while driving?

Marc

Kika

I think they meant disarm the immobilizer, not disable.

Kika

There should be no problem with leaving the scanner connected during the cycle, I left mine connected (actron 9180) with no issues.
I am not convinced the order is critical either, as I noticed my codes reset during the under 30 portion. I wouldn't cut the time too short either, While there is a penalty to pay fro under doing it, I don't think there is a penalty for exceeding the allotted times.

I have mistakenly been thinking it was under 40, so while on the way to the Fwy I kept it under 40, then did the under 60 on the Fwy. I noticed my codes cleared on the way back home during the under 30 once I realized my mistake.

dmwallace

Is the < 30mph part of the cycle done at < 3000rpm or < 2000rpm? I have been assuming < 3000rpm but the posting of the Porsche OBDII Test Drive sheet on this thread has a mechanic's notes stating:
"1800-2000rpm keep car in this range for diag."

mac993

Under 3k but I stayed around 2k as to not chance getting close to the 3k mark. I was so frustrated and over thinking it I was afraid my gauges might not be accurate and kept well below the marks to play it safe.... crazy. Also, I left my scanner plugged in and both times it cleared while in the cool down (idle for 5mins) period. It is very clear when they clear. You won't miss it I promise. And if your like me you'll probably scream out in joy when it happens...

diet97993

Between 1500 - 2000 RPM will work. Leaving the scanner plugged in is ok. However, it also becomes a distraction after a while when driving.

dmwallace

Folks,

I am happy to report that I have now completed the drive cycle and all tests are complete! YEA!!!

Here's what I did on this drive cycle:

1. I let the car idle before driving for about 5-6 minutes with the heat on, after reading through a readiness code document I found that I had in my Docs_TSB folder. I kept the heat on low throughout the drive cycle.

2. I drove the low speed part of the drive cycle for about 15 minutes, keeping it < 2000rpm and < 30mph. I did have some stop signs, stop lights, etc. during that period.

3. I drove the high(er) speed part of the drive cycle for about 30-40 minutes, keeping it < 3000rpm and < 60mph. Depending on traffic speed I was either in 4th or 5th gear for most of the trip.

At the end of the drive cycle I ended up at a red light, had a look at my tester, and saw the good news! Now I can get my car inspected tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone who provided advice and moral support to me.

Cheers,
David

diet97993

Another drive cycle issue bites the dust!......Congratulations dmwallace

mac993

Congrats! Feels good when you finally get it right and clear thoses suckers.....

jimb206

Have tried and tried for close to 1,500 miles to reset readiness codes. During this time I tried different approaches including the BMW drive cycle. None of them worked.

Well today I did David's process. (Described in his post) And I think it worked. I finally got the following:
Catalyst Mon OK
Evap System Mon OK
Sec Air System OK
Oxygen Sens Mon OK
Oxygen Sens Htr OK

Previously these were all listed as Not Ready.

But now I have
Htd Catalyst N/A
A/C Refrig Mon N/A
EGR System Mon N/A

Are these three an issue or are they meaningless for an emission test?

Thanks
Jim
1996 twin turbo

dmwallace

Jim,

Glad to hear that this process worked for someone else! If I recall correctly, the other 3 codes you listed are not applicable to an emissions test. If you have a code tester like an Actron it should have a State OBD test selection. You should run that test (engine must be on) and it should be telling you that you have no monitors with status Inc (incomplete). The N/A codes do not matter.

Marco8

I have tried this 3 times and still not in readiness....

Disconnected my battery recently to change ground strap, now car overdue, failed inspection (no cel/trouble codes) just can't get to readiness mode.

Suggestions.......... Thanks in advance