Readiness codes fix....
#121
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
An easy fix - Move out of your state where the Readyness code is evaluated and re-title your car in a new state. The added benefit is you no longer have to pay taxes to a state that makes one of its priorities making owning a car an aggravation. I have lived in Ohio & now Virginia and have never had any of this. Or better yet think about your choices in the next election and consider which candidate proposes even greater government invasion into you personal life.
All in good fun!
Andy
All in good fun!
Andy
#122
Rennlist Member
I used to park the car at a Mass Pike rest stop and then complete the drive cycle in one continuous sesssion. Not anymore.
I have "re-readied" my readiness codes twice in the past 3 weeks after getting the dreaded CEL (P0410 code both times: 83K miles on the car, but top end at 47K. Why I'm getting P0410 now is another story).
Both times, I backed out of my driveway, after the prescribed cold start idle time, drove through town with many stop lights, keeping under 30 mph and at times even went under 20 mph etc and then hit Rte 128 for the high speed stint. I know at least once I didn't finish the complete cycle in one trip.
Try it. Good luck..
#123
Rennlist Member
on another good OBDII note, I went to the salt lake county ref station last week. instead of putting the car on rollers for a sniff test the guy shrugged his shoulders and handed me a waiver.
no test, no look over, nothing.
must of been my lucky day, I'd a played the lotto but didn't feel like driving to wyoming.
no test, no look over, nothing.
must of been my lucky day, I'd a played the lotto but didn't feel like driving to wyoming.
#124
Race Director
Guys help!
Flat battery and I charged it, installed in the car and I'm now running into the stalling at every single attempt to stop.
My issue with running the routine described in this thread is that I've got 3 speed bumps and one traffic light to negotiate before I can even think of attempting these cycles.
HELP! What should I do?
Flat battery and I charged it, installed in the car and I'm now running into the stalling at every single attempt to stop.
My issue with running the routine described in this thread is that I've got 3 speed bumps and one traffic light to negotiate before I can even think of attempting these cycles.
HELP! What should I do?
J/K!
Does not matter if you have to stop, just don't turn the car off. The drive routine does not need to be continuous, just pick it back up as soon as you can. I have at least 4 stop signs on my route, never been an issue.
#125
Race Car
Okay good to know.
The car ran fine this morning on the way to work...??? The idle did dip a few times but no stalling ???
Grrrrr.
The car ran fine this morning on the way to work...??? The idle did dip a few times but no stalling ???
Grrrrr.
#127
This thread has been extremely helpful. Yesterday, my car showed yellow on my scanner (after being in storage for so long and having a dead battery). I ran the drive cycle twice- once at 1 am and then again today at noon and upon final idle, green showed up Passes smog and will be on the road again soon.
I live in San Francisco and finding roads to accomplish the drives in their duration was tough. FWIW, I did a lot of stop and go on the 20-30 mph section both times I did it and it worked. The 40-60 mph part was easy as long as I did it without traffic.
I live in San Francisco and finding roads to accomplish the drives in their duration was tough. FWIW, I did a lot of stop and go on the 20-30 mph section both times I did it and it worked. The 40-60 mph part was easy as long as I did it without traffic.
#128
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Readyness code setting...
zI seem to recall some extra steps between step 2 "Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs" and step 3... you need to open the door run around the car three times get in the car get out of the car open the trunk open the engine lid, close the trunk , close the engine lid, get back in the car, honk the horn three times, open the glove box close the glove box, make sure you saw that the glove box light turned on. Turn the wipers on and off twice ........
zI seem to recall some extra steps between step 2 "Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs" and step 3... you need to open the door run around the car three times get in the car get out of the car open the trunk open the engine lid, close the trunk , close the engine lid, get back in the car, honk the horn three times, open the glove box close the glove box, make sure you saw that the glove box light turned on. Turn the wipers on and off twice ........
#129
Rennlist Member
I have used all the OCD techniques and magical thinking and can't get my 5 to reset. I have been tracking them with my scan tool.
Off to the shop to figure out what the heck is going on.
--Michael
Off to the shop to figure out what the heck is going on.
--Michael
#130
Rennlist Member
Success
Thanks to all who have contributed on this topic. Just put a battery in my 1996 C4S and I failed emissions in NJ a week later. I didn't even think about the readiness codes when I put the battery in. Bought an innova 3120 code reader and drove the drive cycle 3 times. Finally got the codes to reset after the 3rd run. I had the reader plugged into the OBD2 port while doing the first and second drive cycles and noticed that my immobilizer light would illuminate every time the code reader would try to communicate with the car. After the second drive cycle and not having any success I did a third drive cycle without the reader plugged into the port. The immobilizer light did not illuminate during this drive cycle and when I got home I scanned the codes and it worked! Just reporting my experience, not sure if the immobilizer illumination is relevant or not. Anyway, thanks again for the help!
Lou
Lou
#132
Instructor
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: East Tennessee
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Went for emissions test and failed because 5 monitors weren’t ready. The non-cooperative monitors, according to the state, were:
Catalyst
Evaporative System
Secondary Air System
Oxygen Sensor
Heated Oxygen Sensor
From some research I found that these are “non-continuous tests,” whatever that means. In reading through this thread, I’ve read about drive cycles. Are there specific drive cycles for these specific monitors? In The Essential Companion (p. 192) there is a procedure there for a “drive cycle to reset the readiness codes.” It says,
Cold start, idle for 10 to 15 minutes
Drive at 2200 rpm for 8 miles
Drive at 2500 rpm for 5 miles
Drive at 1800 rpm for 8 miles
Allow to idle for 3 minutes.
In this thread, the cycles don’t seem so specific.
This car was tested back in March when I bought it. Last month I put in a Fabspeed sport and TechArt mufflers. I initially had an O2 sensor fault so I replaced the sensor and had the fault erased. No problems at all—the car gets better fuel economy and runs cooler since—until I went to get it inspected before registration.
This is very new to me and I’m fearful of never being able to register my nonetheless great-running car again because of some invisible codes someplace. Any rennlist help will be greatly appreciated.
Catalyst
Evaporative System
Secondary Air System
Oxygen Sensor
Heated Oxygen Sensor
From some research I found that these are “non-continuous tests,” whatever that means. In reading through this thread, I’ve read about drive cycles. Are there specific drive cycles for these specific monitors? In The Essential Companion (p. 192) there is a procedure there for a “drive cycle to reset the readiness codes.” It says,
Cold start, idle for 10 to 15 minutes
Drive at 2200 rpm for 8 miles
Drive at 2500 rpm for 5 miles
Drive at 1800 rpm for 8 miles
Allow to idle for 3 minutes.
In this thread, the cycles don’t seem so specific.
This car was tested back in March when I bought it. Last month I put in a Fabspeed sport and TechArt mufflers. I initially had an O2 sensor fault so I replaced the sensor and had the fault erased. No problems at all—the car gets better fuel economy and runs cooler since—until I went to get it inspected before registration.
This is very new to me and I’m fearful of never being able to register my nonetheless great-running car again because of some invisible codes someplace. Any rennlist help will be greatly appreciated.
#133
What is your current mileage?
Sounds like you may be having multiple O2 sensor failures, along with a failing SAI check valve.
Could also have a bad, failing, leaking fuel cap as indicated by the evap sys issue.
This is a simple start point list of prelim items to check. The more knowledgeable 993 gurus, would be much more precise in their assessments.
HTH
Sounds like you may be having multiple O2 sensor failures, along with a failing SAI check valve.
Could also have a bad, failing, leaking fuel cap as indicated by the evap sys issue.
This is a simple start point list of prelim items to check. The more knowledgeable 993 gurus, would be much more precise in their assessments.
HTH
Went for emissions test and failed because 5 monitors weren’t ready. The non-cooperative monitors, according to the state, were:
Catalyst
Evaporative System
Secondary Air System
Oxygen Sensor
Heated Oxygen Sensor
From some research I found that these are “non-continuous tests,” whatever that means. In reading through this thread, I’ve read about drive cycles. Are there specific drive cycles for these specific monitors? In The Essential Companion (p. 192) there is a procedure there for a “drive cycle to reset the readiness codes.” It says,
Cold start, idle for 10 to 15 minutes
Drive at 2200 rpm for 8 miles
Drive at 2500 rpm for 5 miles
Drive at 1800 rpm for 8 miles
Allow to idle for 3 minutes.
In this thread, the cycles don’t seem so specific.
This car was tested back in March when I bought it. Last month I put in a Fabspeed sport and TechArt mufflers. I initially had an O2 sensor fault so I replaced the sensor and had the fault erased. No problems at all—the car gets better fuel economy and runs cooler since—until I went to get it inspected before registration.
This is very new to me and I’m fearful of never being able to register my nonetheless great-running car again because of some invisible codes someplace. Any rennlist help will be greatly appreciated.
Catalyst
Evaporative System
Secondary Air System
Oxygen Sensor
Heated Oxygen Sensor
From some research I found that these are “non-continuous tests,” whatever that means. In reading through this thread, I’ve read about drive cycles. Are there specific drive cycles for these specific monitors? In The Essential Companion (p. 192) there is a procedure there for a “drive cycle to reset the readiness codes.” It says,
Cold start, idle for 10 to 15 minutes
Drive at 2200 rpm for 8 miles
Drive at 2500 rpm for 5 miles
Drive at 1800 rpm for 8 miles
Allow to idle for 3 minutes.
In this thread, the cycles don’t seem so specific.
This car was tested back in March when I bought it. Last month I put in a Fabspeed sport and TechArt mufflers. I initially had an O2 sensor fault so I replaced the sensor and had the fault erased. No problems at all—the car gets better fuel economy and runs cooler since—until I went to get it inspected before registration.
This is very new to me and I’m fearful of never being able to register my nonetheless great-running car again because of some invisible codes someplace. Any rennlist help will be greatly appreciated.
#134
Instructor
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: East Tennessee
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My mileage is about 54.2K. The state does a check on the gas cap but there didn't seem to be an issue there. Until I changed out the cat, I had no probems at all, and then the O2 sensor fault and now this. That seems related to me, but I know absolutely nothing about this type of electronic stuff. Again, any help will be appeciated.
#135
First note; just because the state does a check the gas cap (evap sys) does not mean it is OK. Something in the evap sys tripped that code.
Why did you need to change out the cat? At 54.2k miles, the cat should be at about mid-life; unless it is getting clogged with excessive oil from maybe worn valve guides, which would also clog the SAI system. Does the car burn oil? Did you do your own oil change and possibly overfil?
If you know nothing about this car, and are not somewhat mechanically inclined, and are not engaged in RL discussions about these cars, your best bet is to take it to a well respected independent air cooled porsche specialist and have the root cause of the codes diagnosed.
Until I changed out the cat, I had no probems at all, and then the O2 sensor fault and now this.
If you know nothing about this car, and are not somewhat mechanically inclined, and are not engaged in RL discussions about these cars, your best bet is to take it to a well respected independent air cooled porsche specialist and have the root cause of the codes diagnosed.
Last edited by nine9six; 08-06-2013 at 01:02 PM.