Chapron67

Hello. I got my first Porsche the other day, a '96 993 Cabriolet, manual. It is in really nice condition with 30k original miles and 2 owners. I don't think it's been driven much in inclement weather as it still looks new through out.

But, even those I followed all the rules (carfax, professional Porsche PPI, all records, etc) it has a few issues that I'd appreciate your help with. Some very minor, one seems serious...

Chapron67

oops... didn't mean to send that yet!

Hello. I got my first Porsche the other day, a '96 993 Cabriolet, manual. It is in really nice condition with 30k original miles and 2 owners. I don't think it's been driven much in inclement weather as it still looks new through out.

But, even those I followed all the rules (carfax, professional Porsche PPI, all records, etc) it has a few issues that I'd appreciate your help with. Some very minor, one seems serious...

1. Do I need to turn the key on and then click the 'unlock' button on the fob until the light goes out to start the car?!
2. the Radio is dead. Nothing shows up in the readout. I checked the fuse under the hood and it's OK. It says I need special tools to get the radio out to, I assume, check the fuse in the radio/CD player itself. Where do I get those and/or can I use a screwdriver or something. the radio looks to be the original as it says Porsche along the top of it.
3. Oil level gauge. Freaked me out the first time I drove it as it went into the red as I drove off. At idle it goes right in the middle. I checked the oil level 398 times as it's next to impossible to read the level but it looks like it's 2/3's up the 'spirally bit'. I've read a lot of forum threads and it says this is normal. I'm assuming it is?
4. Oil leak. Yup.... just like all the stuff I read about them on line... but the leaks are significant (2-3 tablespoons everything I drive it) ... and come out 'in front of' the rear passenger wheel. Seems to be far from the engine itself. There are little drips coming down from which looks like a small panel that can be removed with 3 ? screws? It's right near where the jack connects on the rear. Any thoughts on how to proceed? I've got a photo is that would help?

Thanks so much!

Greg, Virginia

rsr91128

Welcome to Rennlist!

#1 Good luck with the immobilizer (I'll let those with experience chime in)
#2 Radio removal tools are cheap, can be found on ebay, dealers just about anywhere, or try here
#3 Lot's of info about oil levels in search, mine is happy on the low side of the twisty part, above 3/4 gets oil through the breather into the intake
#4 Remove the right rear wheel and fender liner and you will see an oil filter, thermostat, oil tank, oil lines etc. Any of these can cause your leak, hopefully it is just the crush washer on the drain plug, that way you only have to drain 8 quarts of oil

Enjoy the new ride.

Chapron67

Thanks Erik!

I'm stuck again! Yes, I see that the oil is coming out from behind the fender liner. I need to remove the wheel but it uses 'a special socket' or something; and it says in the manual 'it's with the spare tire'. I've checked out the spare and it clearly has never been out, all the tools are there, and also the 'inflator' -- but no 'special socket'... is it usually somewhere special?

The car just had a 15,000 maintenance at the time of the PPI -- do you have to remove this wheel to change the oil / filter? Perhaps they forgot to give me the socket back? I'm hoping something is just loose 'in there'.

Also, the factory jack doesn't seem to want to jack 'straight up' but fall on its side (the foot of the jack is angled). Seems that if I continue to jack it up it will scratch the bottom panel. Is there something special I need to know about the jack?

Thanks!

goofballdeluxe

Yes, the special thing you need to know about the jack that comes from the factory, is it's a total piece of crap. DO NOT use it to lift your car.

RAPID

As far as the immobiliser goes, after you have opened the door, if you don't start the engine within a minute or so it activates and you must use the "fob". if you start the engine straight away you don't need to "unlock"....
Radio...don't know...
Oil. if your oil is clean, it is mot easy to see, best it to use a clean cloth and wipe the gage, then use your finger to check...

baca

Hey you should go to youtube.com and type in "porsche 993 owner's video" and watch out. It's 9:45 minutes long and around 3.10 minutes into the video explains the oil gauges perfectly. Pretty cool to watch the whole thing if you got a few extra minutes to spare.

baca

Your oil level gauge next to the fuel level is only useful after the car is fully warmed up and the car has been idling on level ground for 20 seconds. It should move of out of the red and in the white if their's oil in the oil reservior. Oil level will be in the red area under acceleration and while driving and that is normal.

csertich

+1 Don't use the jack that comes with the car.
chuck

chet

Regarding getting the wheel off. If you don't have the special socket, a dealer will have a set and can get the locking lug nut off. When I ran into that problem, I bought four plain lug nuts to replace the locking nuts rather than buying the special socket.

rj777

Greg, welcome to the 993 forum on Rennlist and congrats on your new car.

Depending on how you store your car, you have two easy options for starting it up without having to mess with turning the key halfway and pressing the remote button.

If you keep the car locked at night, just unlock it with the remote, get in the car and sit down, and as long as you start it within 60 seconds of unlocking it, the engine will fire right up with no additional intervention required.

If you keep the car in a locked garage, but don't actually lock the car itself, just get in the car, and before you insert the key into the ignition, with the keys in your hand, press the remote locking button (this will lock the doors), then immediately press it again (unlocking the doors), and then stick key into igntion and turn it. You will not have to stop midway and press the button.

Hope you get the other items sorted out and can begin enjoying your new car!

Regards,
rickj

black ice

Look around the rest of the car for the socket-sized adaptor that fits on the locking lug nut. Not always with the tool kit. I had the same problem as Chet (but in my case, I drove off with the lock adaptor on the wheel!) and went to the dealer to get the locks removed. Call the dealer first because not all of them still have the lock set (or maybe just aren't prepared to let DIYers use it). Expect to have to buy a new locking set there, bring four lug nuts with you to replace the lock set, or buy new regular lug nuts from the dealer.

The jack that comes with the car works fine, but it's not meant for garage work. You should know how to use it for that time you get a flat tire and wish to use your spare. Look at your owner's manual for instructions, especially where the jacking points are - a small hole in front of the rear wheel and behind the front wheel on the tub itself. When you spread the jack open, the foot should hit the ground directly beneath the jacking point.

Get a big jack and some stands for working on your car.

dave

e3photo

Welcome, and enjoy your 993. Like others I would sugggest looking around for the adapter. I found the one for my car in the door pocket on the drivers side. I would look in door pockets, and the glove box.

Emerald

Warpig

Congrats on your new car. Enjoy and welcome to the slippery slope. Sounds like the first 10 replies have got you covered on your questions. I'm surprised however that 10 responses have been made so far and NOBODY has chastised you for not posting your obligatory pictures of the car. So let me be the first.

Nick

Chapron67

Thanks everyone!

I found the special socket! And removed the rear wheel and fender inner panel and, guess what, the oil drain plug was not even finger tight! They just did a 15k service and clearly didn't tighten the plug up! Note to self: see a leak, deal with it!

Went to crutchfields and might just replace the original with a kenwood iPod player. DoJust fill it up and drive it. Dont love the looks but probably cheaper and better than getting an original cd player. The guy also told me replace the stock speakers with 2 better ones for only $40. Thoughts?

Finally (?) new problem: if I come to a fast stop the horn blasts! If I brake slowly, nothing. If rapid, the horn blasts (even with my hands off the wheel)! Wonder if the front suspension is 'going down' and causing a short? And perhaps this is related to the radio having no power?

Ever heard of this!?