Monique

IMO... the best mod for any DE car is a good driver course.

Most drivers are the limiting factor on the track. P cars are P cars...

This is my opinion based on personal findings....

bart1

You can drop a decent amount of weight without spending much money. Since you gave a rollbar, lose the rear seats, belts, wiper, speakers, etc. Then you could consider RS door panels and lower dash removal.

mongrelcat

If you haven't checked the pricing lately, you're in for nice little surprise when you do.

mcipseric

have you done the oil cooler fan by-pass switch mod? Sound like a great option without adding another oil cooler....

I would go with Appbiz RS door cards and Rennline lower dash delete. Much cleaner look and much less lbs.

guardsredcab

Regarding dropping weight, I like the approach Bart took earlier this year... move up to a solo run group and you loose at least 160lbs by getting rid of the instructor!

alexl911

Wevo (or RS) engine mounts. Relatively cheap, easy to fit and make a HUGE difference.

vaujot

Not 100% on topic but 8.5x18 ET50 sounds pretty good to me. I wonder what you're looking for, less ET or more ET?

Bill Verburg

993 Cups used 8.5 ET52, i've used 9 ET50, A friend uses 8.5 ET56, either will do but I'd be most comfortable w/ 8.5 ET56,

George from MD

What run group are you in? I've been tracking a 993 (and instructing) for almost ten years and don't have much more in mods than you already have. A former chief instructor for our region did the same for years as well (although he's recently gone over to the GT3 camp).

You can spend a fortune in upgrades and you're not going to have any more fun than you're already having. I would save my money, maybe work on suspension (alignment) tweaks with someone who really knows their sh*t and spend the money on track time. For example:

You don't need an oil cooler unless you are running in hot temps at a very high level. I've run my car all day in plus 100 degrees temps with two drivers. The oil was hot but not excessively so. If you're in a lower run group you simply don't need this.

I wouldn't get a lightweight flywheel until you need a clutch. It's expensive enough as it is. Do you heel and toe? If not save your bucks until you do that well- at the least.

If you have a factory LSD chances are it's not working- depending on what you put in that could significantly change the feel of the car. If you can't tell that it's not working save your money until you can.

Motons? You can be awfully damn fast without them. That former chief instructor used PSS9s for years and was a lot faster than any less experienced (or talented) drivers who bought them. They are NOT a a panacea for lack of experience and talent and aren't going to make you one whit faster until you learn how to use and adjust them.

If you use the car in Winter don't do the heater blower bypass. Unless you like a cold car. You'll never feel the difference in power or weight anyway.

Drive other people's cars. Let other, more experienced people, drive yours. See what feels right and/or better to you before you blow money. If you do that, spend the money on track time and improving yourself first, you might find you want to go whole hog and buy a race car- or you'll focus on buying improvements you can really use and enjoy. When you do decide to do improvements bear in mind what will be class legal or what will bump your car into a class where you can't be competitive. You may decide to try a club race.. or more.

Less money on mods is more more money for the track. Just my two cents.

EDIT: If you're in Baltimore chances are you could be in Potomac region- are you signed up for SP event at end of month?

NC TRACKRAT

If you don't already have them, install stainless steel brake lines. Also, going to a big brake kit means stopping over a shorter distance which effectively gives quicker lap times.

Reddy Kilowatt

As an interested observer of this thread, thanks very much for some pragmatic advice.

guardsredcab

George, Absolutely agree with your points. It's certainly fun to think about new mods but I decided late this summer to invest in my skills instead of new hardware. That being said, i do have a question about the sentence above. Maybe I missed it, but why do you think the chances are good that a factory LSD is not working?

Thanks!

Mark in Baltimore

Yes, AT Speed is known for being really reasonable with their prices.

The stock brakes are just fine and even more so for a green group driver. Learning how to properly manage braking on the track is one of the hardest things to do. In the words of Chris Cervelli, it's not necessarily about braking later; it's about braking less. I'm still working on this.

George from MD

Thanks you guys.

I doubt if the diff is working because the disks aren't very robust and don't last long. You can jack the car up and put it in neutral and spin one wheel. If the opposite tire spins in the same direction, your LSD is working. If it spins in the opposite direction or not at all it's broke. Or you could try a burnout or put one side off the road in mud etc.

To the original poster- you are very close to TPC in Ellicot City. Go see Mike Levitas- he's a suspension master and can help you dial it in the way it should be. I wouldn't do any more mods than that for now.

Mike also comes to Potomac events a lot and is one of the nicest, most helpful guys out there. He's faster than a bat out of h*ll too.

BTW I have the big reds and have noticed absolutely no difference in braking ability- that's not to say there isn't any difference but I sure haven't seen it. What I have noticed (and what was a big plus for me when the wife and I were both driving) is the rotors last over twice as long- maybe even three times as long. On six to eight events per year I'm averaging front rotors once a year and rears once every two (only me driving now) using Hawk HT10s. Mark I totally agree with your sentiment about braking and God knows I'm still working on it.

cgfen

WOW a voice of sanity in the wilderness.
Spending $$$$$ on hardware is fun and satisfying, but it hasn't made me any faster .

Getting an excellent performance alignment and good tires did more for my cars performance / and my confidence than anything else.

Driving with and learning from more talented people has been far more productive than spending $$$$$$.

My only disagreement with George = i would consider adding the oil cooler fan bypass switch. It cost $25 and an hours time to be able to run the fan continuously. I like seeing the oil temp indicator below 9 o'clock under all conditions.

From Robin Sun's site

http://p-car.com/diy/fanswitch/


I agree with Monique and believe the wetware is the limiting factor in my case, not the hardware.

Have fun

Craig