Engine bay bling
11-19-2010, 11:02 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Engine bay bling
Since I'm thinking of ways to waste time and money on the car for xmas, has anyone done any major bling work in the engine bay ? Anyone painted the air duct on top of the engine or the intake distributor ?
If so - can you show some pics and let us know how you went about it ?
Regards
Ken
If so - can you show some pics and let us know how you went about it ?
Regards
Ken
Last edited by haygeebaby; 12-21-2010 at 10:07 AM.
11-19-2010, 11:25 AM
#2
Agent Orange
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
This is a 964 engine with the plastic intake manifold. Is yours a 95 car? Because I wouldn't do it on a Varioram, it just looks too nice as is.
Look up a thread on "Big Bird." Plenty of engine bling there
Technically painting the manifold is no different than painting any other plastic or metal surface. Clean, prep, spray, polish. It's not too difficult to remove everything in order to get the manifolds, but it's time consuming. I suppose if you painted it red, it would show a little from the grille and it would look cool, but I think it's just too much work.
Painting your fan on the other hand isn't as hard, because the removal process is easier. But I've heard of people having issues with peeling paint on the fan and it also gets dirty quickly. Anyway, hope this helps.
If you decide to go through this, there is a small "while in there" preventive maintenance item you can do. The oil pressure sensor sits on top of the engine and the seal is known to fail every once in a while. When it does it causes a big mess as oil drips down all the oil lines, heat exchanger, etc. You might want to replace the gasket just in case.
Look up a thread on "Big Bird." Plenty of engine bling there
Technically painting the manifold is no different than painting any other plastic or metal surface. Clean, prep, spray, polish. It's not too difficult to remove everything in order to get the manifolds, but it's time consuming. I suppose if you painted it red, it would show a little from the grille and it would look cool, but I think it's just too much work.
Painting your fan on the other hand isn't as hard, because the removal process is easier. But I've heard of people having issues with peeling paint on the fan and it also gets dirty quickly. Anyway, hope this helps.
If you decide to go through this, there is a small "while in there" preventive maintenance item you can do. The oil pressure sensor sits on top of the engine and the seal is known to fail every once in a while. When it does it causes a big mess as oil drips down all the oil lines, heat exchanger, etc. You might want to replace the gasket just in case.
11-20-2010, 08:26 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Hi all.
Just in the midst of having the intake manifold refitted after having it colour coded steel grey metallic same as my fan centre (see pic attached). I have also added Rothsport light gold alloy pulley and removed the factor airbox entirely going to a dual cone BMC filter that just bolts right up to the MAF like KBell did. I will post final pictures in a week or so when its all finished. While I was in there I removed vlutch breather pipe, rubber hose, engine tinware etc right back to clutch. Saved around 5kg with the heavy factory airbox. Also took out the factory sound pad and replaced with a ULTIMATE sound pad (lighter, lasts forever and three layered). I replaced the plastic studs that hold it up with new ones.
Other while youre in there jobs included sending the injectors away for a clean and service (very worthwhile as mine were filthy from 17 years of use and one of them was dripping alot!). Also my rear hood shocks were starting to go again after changing them around 9 years ago. This time I ordered the RS partnumber shock which is stronger as it has to support a glass fibre whale tail. Same price. Hopefully should get closer to 20 years out them this time!
Just in the midst of having the intake manifold refitted after having it colour coded steel grey metallic same as my fan centre (see pic attached). I have also added Rothsport light gold alloy pulley and removed the factor airbox entirely going to a dual cone BMC filter that just bolts right up to the MAF like KBell did. I will post final pictures in a week or so when its all finished. While I was in there I removed vlutch breather pipe, rubber hose, engine tinware etc right back to clutch. Saved around 5kg with the heavy factory airbox. Also took out the factory sound pad and replaced with a ULTIMATE sound pad (lighter, lasts forever and three layered). I replaced the plastic studs that hold it up with new ones.
Other while youre in there jobs included sending the injectors away for a clean and service (very worthwhile as mine were filthy from 17 years of use and one of them was dripping alot!). Also my rear hood shocks were starting to go again after changing them around 9 years ago. This time I ordered the RS partnumber shock which is stronger as it has to support a glass fibre whale tail. Same price. Hopefully should get closer to 20 years out them this time!
11-21-2010, 10:26 AM
#5
Macca, yours is gonna look great! Well, greater - it's already pretty darn nice.
Couple of comments: Do you think you will get any gain from the BMC filter? I think the common knowledge here is to stick with factory paper due to oil fouling the system, less filtering, power loss etc. Also, I'm not sure about the RS shocks, but pretty sure the RS tail weighs less than the motorized one.
Couple of comments: Do you think you will get any gain from the BMC filter? I think the common knowledge here is to stick with factory paper due to oil fouling the system, less filtering, power loss etc. Also, I'm not sure about the RS shocks, but pretty sure the RS tail weighs less than the motorized one.
11-21-2010, 12:24 PM
#6
Instructor
Hi Not really bling more a clean up and detailing job.
Powder coated fan housing and a couple of other bits whilst replacing the alternator as a preventative measure
Powder coated fan housing and a couple of other bits whilst replacing the alternator as a preventative measure
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11-21-2010, 03:29 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Ash that looks great!You were more ballsey than me. I went with a colour for manifold and fan centre that could almost be mistaken for factory. However I like you yellow fan alot!
Bart. Thanks for the compliments. I know the dual cone filter is a big area of debate. Ive had the 993 10 years. I ran paper filter stock box for 18 months, then MSDS dual cone filter for 2+ years (noticed big improvement in sound on WOT with RSR and a small increase in throttle sensitivity). After reading these forums I went back to stock box but with drilled cover for 3 years (didnt notice any inrease in power but lost a little of tke glorious 5000+rpm induction sound). I had a K&N panel filter in it this time. In 2010 I opened teh box up even more with a dremel then changed the MAF which was reading false after 17 years of use. Replacing a new MAF for $300 every 15 years or so isnt so bad. I love the look and sound of the dual cone and it also saves weight and gives much more area for air circulation around the inlet manifolds. I also rarely drive this car on anything but an open road. I will Dyno with and without in 4 weeks time as this is part of a greater effort to get close to 300 bhp at crank with 260lbft torque. We will see but for now I like the simpliity and directness of the fit and air path, also the surface volum of the filter is excellent and it will look good. If it robs more than 3 bhp it goes LOL!
On the RS gas shocks - I recalled my RS having a heavier lid than the factory one but that was a very long time ago I had that car so could be wrong. I will look into this - maybe someone else knows for sure? Frankly if the new shocks give out in just a few years Ill throw my hands up and go for this set up which is much tidier and reliable!
Bart. Thanks for the compliments. I know the dual cone filter is a big area of debate. Ive had the 993 10 years. I ran paper filter stock box for 18 months, then MSDS dual cone filter for 2+ years (noticed big improvement in sound on WOT with RSR and a small increase in throttle sensitivity). After reading these forums I went back to stock box but with drilled cover for 3 years (didnt notice any inrease in power but lost a little of tke glorious 5000+rpm induction sound). I had a K&N panel filter in it this time. In 2010 I opened teh box up even more with a dremel then changed the MAF which was reading false after 17 years of use. Replacing a new MAF for $300 every 15 years or so isnt so bad. I love the look and sound of the dual cone and it also saves weight and gives much more area for air circulation around the inlet manifolds. I also rarely drive this car on anything but an open road. I will Dyno with and without in 4 weeks time as this is part of a greater effort to get close to 300 bhp at crank with 260lbft torque. We will see but for now I like the simpliity and directness of the fit and air path, also the surface volum of the filter is excellent and it will look good. If it robs more than 3 bhp it goes LOL!
On the RS gas shocks - I recalled my RS having a heavier lid than the factory one but that was a very long time ago I had that car so could be wrong. I will look into this - maybe someone else knows for sure? Frankly if the new shocks give out in just a few years Ill throw my hands up and go for this set up which is much tidier and reliable!
11-21-2010, 03:52 PM
#9
Good deal, Macca. I do look forward to seeing the dyno results for the filter. I like the idea of getting rid of the airbox too, but always thought the neagatives outweighed the positives. Also think hotter intake temps might rob power to a small degree. I guess you have seen the dyno results on p-car.com
Ah yes, the Seine Systems prop. Last I talked to them, it wasn't a direct fit for the rear, but could be done. That may be 993C4RS' car pictured there. I mentioned Seine to him and I'm not sure what he did to get it to fit. I have the factory RS front prop awaiting install in the front my car.
Ah yes, the Seine Systems prop. Last I talked to them, it wasn't a direct fit for the rear, but could be done. That may be 993C4RS' car pictured there. I mentioned Seine to him and I'm not sure what he did to get it to fit. I have the factory RS front prop awaiting install in the front my car.
11-21-2010, 05:42 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
Hi Bart,
I agre the pod filter option has a key potential downside being induction of warm air. Im no engineer but I suspect my dremel cut motorsound airbox is also at risk of same. Reality of any "motor sound" type airbox cover is that the air is no longer drawn from the forward facing snorkle but instead frm the right hand side of the box which from laymans observation is where its likely warmer. Also the factory airbox is a heavy and thick and black. I cant help but think it must hold alot of latent heat once its warm - especially sitting on top of the engine. On the move the pod filter is surrounded by flowing air (I have no engine tray) and on the dyno we have a fan blowing air directly via a large funnel onto the filter area so I suspect the dyno results may not show the affect of warmer inlet air temps. Fundamentally if you are in traffic alot I suspect the bog standard factory airbox is the best option. But this is a fun car for me and is usually running with the wind....:-) . Ill post results when I have em....
I love the siene stick and that pics is indeed from another members car. Its a good solution I feel.
Cheers
M
I agre the pod filter option has a key potential downside being induction of warm air. Im no engineer but I suspect my dremel cut motorsound airbox is also at risk of same. Reality of any "motor sound" type airbox cover is that the air is no longer drawn from the forward facing snorkle but instead frm the right hand side of the box which from laymans observation is where its likely warmer. Also the factory airbox is a heavy and thick and black. I cant help but think it must hold alot of latent heat once its warm - especially sitting on top of the engine. On the move the pod filter is surrounded by flowing air (I have no engine tray) and on the dyno we have a fan blowing air directly via a large funnel onto the filter area so I suspect the dyno results may not show the affect of warmer inlet air temps. Fundamentally if you are in traffic alot I suspect the bog standard factory airbox is the best option. But this is a fun car for me and is usually running with the wind....:-) . Ill post results when I have em....
I love the siene stick and that pics is indeed from another members car. Its a good solution I feel.
Cheers
M
11-22-2010, 12:04 AM
#11
Pro
Hi There
There are some chrome paints that are new on the market and there are compatible tough lacquers also. I will be doing some of my engine parts in this stuff.
Berni
There are some chrome paints that are new on the market and there are compatible tough lacquers also. I will be doing some of my engine parts in this stuff.
Berni
11-28-2010, 10:10 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the replies all.
Macca - post your update when you can - I can't wait to see your results.
As for me - the intakes came out yesterday afternoon. I'll look for a paint shop today and hopefully the car will be back in action towards the end of the week.
Macca - post your update when you can - I can't wait to see your results.
As for me - the intakes came out yesterday afternoon. I'll look for a paint shop today and hopefully the car will be back in action towards the end of the week.
Last edited by haygeebaby; 12-21-2010 at 10:07 AM.
11-28-2010, 10:24 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The removal process was pretty easy. It probably took about 30 minutes. I removed the air intake box, and then loosened all the logical straps and bolts. A little jiggling and they came out.
I found a small amount of oil sitting on the top of the shroud. Inside of the manifold was pretty greasy so it was given a nice bubble bath and scrub.
I might get rid of the engine sound pad - or should I replace it ?
I found a small amount of oil sitting on the top of the shroud. Inside of the manifold was pretty greasy so it was given a nice bubble bath and scrub.
I might get rid of the engine sound pad - or should I replace it ?
Last edited by haygeebaby; 12-21-2010 at 10:07 AM.