Rear Deck Motor
#1
Addict
Rennlist Member
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Thread Starter
Rear Deck Motor
My rear deck motor was very loud when it opened and closed. As of the weekend, the motor is frozen half way up. I'm assuming my motor is fried.
What much does a rear deck motor cost?
What much does a rear deck motor cost?
#2
Nordschleife Master
It might just be the 'transmission' gear assembly unit .. they get corroded from moisture and fail. I replaced one in my '95 Coupe, bought it from Sunset and IIRC, it was about $200. Easy DIY.
#6
Nordschleife Master
http://p-car.com/diy/spoilerdrive/
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#8
Rennlist Member
The problem with these units is that water can get in the case (usually by running down the cable) which causes corrosion on the (factory) unsealed bearing, thus requiring the DIY.
So I would see if you can get some spray lubricant in there first (likely in and around where the cable enters the unit, from memory). If that doesn't hold up then crack the transmission housing open. Note that this would only be a temporary fix and would require re-application.
- Dave
So I would see if you can get some spray lubricant in there first (likely in and around where the cable enters the unit, from memory). If that doesn't hold up then crack the transmission housing open. Note that this would only be a temporary fix and would require re-application.
- Dave
#9
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Rennlist Member
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Bearings are toast. BTW, your spoiler air dam will soon fail, your passenger seat will get stuck in the rear most position, your AC and Oil cooler resistors are fried, both sets of hood shocks are on their way out, the air cooling rubber duct will crack and disintegrate, the hinge on the driver's door pocket cover will fail, your spark wires are cracking, the rear/front window seal is trapping water soon to promote rust.
Nothing earth shattering, just a great car aging gracefully. Don't waste your time with bandaids, fix the problem and move on.
Nothing earth shattering, just a great car aging gracefully. Don't waste your time with bandaids, fix the problem and move on.
#10
Drifting
Bearings are toast. BTW, your spoiler air dam will soon fail, your passenger seat will get stuck in the rear most position, your AC and Oil cooler resistors are fried, both sets of hood shocks are on their way out, the air cooling rubber duct will crack and disintegrate, the hinge on the driver's door pocket cover will fail, your spark wires are cracking, the rear/front window seal is trapping water soon to promote rust.
Nothing earth shattering, just a great car aging gracefully. Don't waste your time with bandaids, fix the problem and move on.
Nothing earth shattering, just a great car aging gracefully. Don't waste your time with bandaids, fix the problem and move on.
Don't scare the guy too much!
However the DIY on the bearing is warranted in this case. The price of that little gear box with the bearing that fails is $450 on Pelican Parts. The motor is $500. Bearing cost <<$10.
#13
Drifting
Take a look at the DIY linked above by JPP. Do Step 1 to separate the motor from the flexible drive shaft going to the gearbox. Now operate the tail via the center console switch. If it is relatively quiet without the gearbox attached, the gearbox is now your suspect (the more common failure).
If the motor doesn't spin or make any noise, the motor appears to be dead....however, still check for a bad gearbox as it may have caused the motor to die.
To confirm the gearbox failure, you can drive the flexible shaft with a reversible hand drill to see if that is the issue or you may be able to spin it with hand tools as well. If it won't move or makes horrendous noise, most likely you have the failed bearing issue. Splitting the gearbox case open (shown in the DIY) will confirm.
You may need a helper to operate the switch and monitor the tail at the same time.
#15
Nordschleife Master
Wise words. And luckily easy to do for this issue.
Take a look at the DIY linked above by JPP. Do Step 1 to separate the motor from the flexible drive shaft going to the gearbox. Now operate the tail via the center console switch. If it is relatively quiet without the gearbox attached, the gearbox is now your suspect (the more common failure).
If the motor doesn't spin or make any noise, the motor appears to be dead....however, still check for a bad gearbox as it may have caused the motor to die.
To confirm the gearbox failure, you can drive the flexible shaft with a reversible hand drill to see if that is the issue or you may be able to spin it with hand tools as well. If it won't move or makes horrendous noise, most likely you have the failed bearing issue. Splitting the gearbox case open (shown in the DIY) will confirm.
You may need a helper to operate the switch and monitor the tail at the same time.
Take a look at the DIY linked above by JPP. Do Step 1 to separate the motor from the flexible drive shaft going to the gearbox. Now operate the tail via the center console switch. If it is relatively quiet without the gearbox attached, the gearbox is now your suspect (the more common failure).
If the motor doesn't spin or make any noise, the motor appears to be dead....however, still check for a bad gearbox as it may have caused the motor to die.
To confirm the gearbox failure, you can drive the flexible shaft with a reversible hand drill to see if that is the issue or you may be able to spin it with hand tools as well. If it won't move or makes horrendous noise, most likely you have the failed bearing issue. Splitting the gearbox case open (shown in the DIY) will confirm.
You may need a helper to operate the switch and monitor the tail at the same time.
After I installed the new tranny, the tail worked flawlessly and I couldn't hear it at all with the engine running ... as opposed to hearing it close at every stop light with the windows and roof shut and Fister Stage I's burbling ....