Quadcammer

yeah, its low for sure.

I could easily find $5k worth of stuff to fix if I were really ****, but I'm not a proponent of fanatical perfectionism or over-maintenance, so I haven't bothered.

solomonschris

My 991S has depreciated about 35K, and I bought it only 6 months ago. My 993 on the other hand is probably worth at least what I have in it. Zero maintenance costs so far since the money spent at purchase. Since the 993, in any of its iterations, seems to be nearly immune to depreciation it may be one of the cheapest cars to own that isn't a "beater".

Ed Hughes

I was "pretty low" on $ this year, until $350 spent on PDR this afternoon. You never know when you'll get bit.

Allen

from 8/99 to 12/12...29,990 miles...average monthly maintenance = $36.47 I'm pretty happy with that.

Oh...after reading some of the other posts...I guess I will mention...I AM very **** about anything that doesn't work correctly...so if it's hiccups...it gets fixed. I've just never had anything hiccup...car has been perfect.

In fact...just looking at my spreadsheet...the ONLY malfunctions on the car have been: odometer gears ($50 fixed myself), DME relay ($0 fixed myself), Airbag Retaining frame ($60 fixed myself), Engine Fan Shroud ($39 fixed myself)

So I'm actually a LOT more than "pretty happy"!

trophy

Hmm Let me see.

Drove 0 miles.....

Crank Shaft, Rods, oil pump, mechanical rockers, Rebuilt heads, Pistons and cylinders, cams, new intake, secondary oil cooler, RSCS wing, RS side skirts, Stoptech big brakes, RS door panels, Cup Power steering....

I haven't spent much this year at all.

95 C4 993

Oil change: $230.00
Refurbished Interstate battery--$35.00
Replaced a set of rear tires (Hankooks) but I bought those 2 years ago.

.......$265.00

pp000830

Rack replacement: $350+/- for sent-out rebuild of my own rack and parts, quality time under the car;
Coil-overs: H&R kit and little stuff $2000 +/- and Saturday in the driveway;
Torn rear bumper cover fix and repaint 2K single stage. $200 in paint, gun and supplies and a Saturday in the driveway;
Fix window switch rocker – better than replacing with a new aftermarket switch of lower quality, $0;
Unfortunately most car owners in Virginia pay very high labor rates and inflated hours to get their cars serviced inflating the true cost of ownership.
I had never done any of the above previously on any car, learned that none of it is that hard to do.
Andy :-)

vaujot

I had a rather expensive year. I think about 5k EUR altogether.
The big items were: rust on windshield frame plus new windshield: 1800 EUR
New brake disks and pads: 1200 EUR (first time in five years)
Becker Grand Prix: 500 EUR plus instalation
I also had an electrical glitch. The fuse for the interior light kept blowing. After some trial and error, it was determined that there was a short circuit in the light of the glovebox.
Luckily, all the big ticket stuff was one-off respectively not necessary every year. So I hope the next few years will be cheaper.
Solominchris brings up an important point when he mentions depreciation of his new 991. Most people tend to ignore that. I read an economics professor once said that all economists who drive new cars should have their diplomas revoked. I have given up driving new cars. Out my three cars, the '95 993 is the newest.

IXLR8

I bought my car new. Depreciation doesn't even enter the equation now that I am in my 14th year with it.

It is still in better shape than cars that are a couple of years old, so I expect to get 20 years out of it. If you pick the right car, the first 8 years are nearly trouble free when it comes to repairs.

utahrock

I usually DIY my Turbo with easy things, but I did sent it out to the mechanic several times this year.

It wasn't really necessary, but I decided not to trust 16 year old rubber brake lines so I had stainless lines installed. They had trouble with one, flushed brakes, of course, transmission and differential oil change, went over critical nuts and bolts, $900.

Not really needed, but new clutch accumulator, a switch, some misc. fasteners to replace rusted ones, stuff like that, $300.

Recharged A/C and looked for leaks (none found), $100.

DIY replacement of cylinder head temp sensor - this one WAS needed; wouldn't run right.

Replaced floor sound insulation, 4 pieces. Not necessary, but they were cracking and it bugged me, even though, with the carpet in place, I couldn't see them. $400.

Okay, here's the big one and it wasn't necessary either: I occasionally had a slight glitch going into 3rd gear. It was hardly noticeable on the street. But I take it to a few DE's and, even though at Miller, with a turbo, I didn't need to shift much, it would grind when it got hot. So I asked myself, "Should I spend a wad of money just to have it be more pleasant a few times a year on the track?" Of course, the answer was "Yes."

So in she went to my trusted mechanic. They dropped the engine and shipped the trans off to the experts, who rebuilt it, with steel synchros naturally. Then (you know this) as long as the motor was out, we did spark plugs, air filter, belts, cap and rotor, all that stuff. Replaced engine sound insulation - easy when the motor's out. Clutch was only 40% worn, but of course, replace it! Also upgrade the clutch shaft needle bearing to a bushing (more durable and easier to line up if you ever drop the transmission while leaving the engine in). Grand total about $8500.

So my maintenance cost was ridiculous. And entirely self-inflicted. But it made me happy.

pirahna

Only had my car since August and put less than 1k miles on it including the 350 mile drive home so my maintenance costs are minimal.

Oil change $200
New spoiler wall $100

And that was it. Now mods on the other hand were a few dollars more...

Maintenance that I have to do early 2013 are replace a torn CV boot and the alternator belt.

GabiOsz

For 2011 it was £1,200 for major service and bumper respray, for 2012 it was £50 for the MOT... 2013 will require some seam welding/replacement of my RSR exhaust boxes and some new rubber seals, so not as cheap as this year but hopfully not too bad.

Mike J

I have not heard of this - do you have any more information?

utahrock

My mechanic who upgraded the needle bearing (in the clutch release fork) to a bushing was Air Power Racing, 801 475-9380. I looked at it when it was apart. The original needle bearings eventually get dented (mine were) and the bushing won't do this. And it makes it easier when assembling the transmission to the engine. It might be from a 964, so maybe it's a "retrograde". But my mechanic is convinced it's better. And when I got the car back, clutch operation was so smooth I thought something was wrong...