KMASS993

I recently uninstalled my Varioram and would like to clean some of the rubber bits including the intake hose and the trumpet hoses for the Varioram. Additionally, I would like to clean that Varioram itself as well as the throttle body. What do you guys recommend for a deep clean of the rubber hoses and the Varioram and throttle body. I don't have access to a ultrasonic parts cleaner (which is probably the best method) but any tips would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

bobt993

Kevin,

Take intake plenum apart and you can literally scrub the air passages. A degreaser and brake clean on the metal is fine. You have three main pieces: main chamber, down runners. I reseal the three units together to avoid any possible vacuum leak. Make sure to take the resonance flap out and clean it carefully. Inspect the seal and lubricate the pivot on the flap. Most of the grime is going to be on the injector housings. Remove all six and use a degreaser and gentle scrub brush on the plastic. Clean the port where the injectors are. Again inspect the seals on the injector bases. Make sure to inspect operations of the vacuum system on the varioram slide valves. Look for collapsed houses and "T" locations.

KMASS993

Bob,

I've broken part the Varioram as I had a seal that came off the trumpet and lodged itself in one of the down runners. When you mention reseal, I did notice that there were no gaskets on between the down runners and the main chamber. What did you use to do the reseal? BTW I am sending out the injectors for cleaning which will come with new seals, are those the seals you are referring to?

IXLR8

The aluminium parts can be cleaned with a water-based degreaser such as Facto AT30. I don't have a Varioram model, so the following is based on the aluminium parts being clear anodized and not painted or clear coated in which case lacquer thinner can be used. Lacquer thinner removes varnish build-up and soot very well.

On heavily oil/greased-up plastic or rubber parts, I use kerosene and then wash them down with Facto AT30.

Be careful around any electrical parts such as the Mass Air Flow meter and also those vacuum units.

bobt993

Kevin, there is a light sealant between the cross chamber and the down runners (metal to metal contact area). I reseal them with a small amount of permatex. As Alex mentioned only cleaned MAS air with the proper propellent. I think your question was more directed at the main housing.

BTW the base of the resonance flap almost always starts to leak. If you clean it real well it seems to alleviate this symptom. Also test the check valves on the tree located back left (driver side) for bad or going bad check valves. Attach a small hose to the end of the valve. Puff a small bit of air into the valve then suck the air back out. The valve should close solid and not allow air to be sucked back out. If it free flows both directions replace it. If it flows partially replace it.

KMASS993

Bob,

I am well aware of the check valve from a flush that I did two years ago. Thankfully, MA no longer does emissions testing on my car. I did notice the resonance valve you are speaking of and it was definitely leaking at the time of removal. I am going to purchase a new seal to hopefully fix the leaking.

bobt993

kevin,

Not the SAI valve. If you look at the Varioram unit there are a couple of inline valves that keep the vacuum level high for the slide valves and the brake booster. (located on the tree left side). These wear out over time and leak/fail. Most often it is the varioram that suffers and the power output over 5500 rpms drops significantly.

KMASS993

Bob,

What flavor of Permatex did you use to do the reseal? I have cleaned and degreased all of the airway passages. I am ready to reseal but I am awaiting new rubber seals for the Varioram intake runners and the resonance valve.

bobt993

I use a valve cover gasket variety (gray/black permatex). There is not that much heat on the intake. A very small bead while installing the allen head bolts. You can clean the excess off after. You don't need much. A small bit just outside the perimeter of the gasket for the resonance flap before you reinstall it helps minimize the leak that is typical. Did you pull the fan shroud also? If your car gets stored in the winter you may want to look under there for debris from your local vermin. They like to start a nest on Cyl #3. Not sure why #3, but is a good place to clean.

David in Chicago

Bob,

Thanks for pointing this out - first I've heard of it. Can you provide pics and (asking too much) part numbers for the inline valves which fail? Or (hoping) is it the connecting hoses which fail and require replacement?

Thanks very much.

Regards to all.

bobt993

David,


Here you go:

This tree should look familiar. You have the vacuum reservoir (fender 96-98) coming off the tree, vacuum boost brake, fuel charcoal canister, varioram vacuum system. Check all three valves for one way operation. You can also charge the system (build up vacuum) then check the reservoir by pulling it from the tree, but I have seen this method miss a leaky valve when you need the slide valves open and the resonance flap at high rpms.

first is the tree:

second underneath is a typical varioram connecting tree. Check this for collapsed lines.

3rd is how to avoid varioram issues. My current upgrade going in this week. I had a bunch of guys not understand why I want to sell my newly built stock engine. Well this is a bit more power.

KMASS993

Bob,

Thanks for posting on this I will do some testing this week. Question for you. In my case I had the jammed varioram runner due to a seal popping off the runner. What impact do you think this will have once I get the car running again and on the road? Do you think it will be a big difference?

trophy

Nice looking engine there Bob, Are you doing a thread on this about the build?

bobt993

Steve,

I will try and document the install over the next week or so. Billet heads (CMW), Motec etc. It dyno'd at almost 410.