Driving in traffic and clutch wear
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Driving in traffic and clutch wear
Even if one depresses the clutch properly while changing gears, does this put undue wear on the clutch in the scenario of slow moving stop and go traffic?
#2
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Of course, its pedal down that loads the throwout bearing, and engagment that wears the clutch disk. Your technique comes to play as well, riding the clutch is a no-no, either engage it or not.
You doing lots of heavy traffic?
You doing lots of heavy traffic?
#3
Rennlist Member
Sure, it can cause wear, but is it undue? No. Your only alternative is to stop using the clutch, learn to double-clutch up and down when you shift and pray that your timing is so accurate that you never knock off any synchro teeth.
#5
+1 on leaving room in front of you! It will drive the people behind you insane as they can't stand any extra space infront of you because they are in a rush. Keep it in gear and let the engine at idle pull you along
phil.
phil.
#7
Nordschleife Master
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#10
Rennlist Member
try getting caught in a 3.5 hr long hr. line up bumper to bumper moving one car at a time border crossing after a 14hr 36 degree celcius day of driving . There is more than the clutch to worry about wearing out . Your engine temp and most important thing not to wear out is ones patience .... also your left leg gets a good work out too
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
I generally try to steer clear of traffic, but sometimes it's just unavoidable. The other day I got caught in 20 mins of very slow stop and go and it was not fun! The clutching/putting in gear/stopping required some physical effort but my bigger concern was the possible wear on the car.
#12
Rennlist Member
I can relate to the clutch leg workout in traffic, I once got shaky leg after an hour in Chicago traffic doing 0 - 1 - 0 mph. It is unlikely you caused excessive clutch wear without realising. It is hard to quantify slippage in writing and obviously any start/shift involves the clutch slipping some amount. As others have said, in traffic you should be able to get the car moving with barely any throttle, the torque is plenty at idle to move on a flat surface. Use the throttle to keep the rpm's at or just above normal idle levels as the clutch bites and the rpm's try to drop. Fully release the clutch as soon as smoothly possible after the bite point, release the throttle and you'll crawl at X mph on idle alone. Or you'll kangaroo into the car in front.
#13
handbrake starts - you should be able to do the same thing with holding the brake.. and I think it stops you from reving the engine since youll have more coordination of the pedals (and gain overall better clutch control).. if you let the clutch go to the engagement point you will have enough friction to hold the car.. then a bit of gas and you will start moving forward. It's tough and a lot tougher with the 993.. on my Mini Cooper S I can do it no problem, but I have a lot different and direct feel for the clutch the way I have the car setup.. takes some practice, but keep at it and get as close to 0 clutch riding\wear as possible. I try to treat my clutch as an on\off button.. it's fun too.. I also think it makes you look like a pro not grabbing the hand break!
'dancing with all 3 pedals at the same time'
phil.
'dancing with all 3 pedals at the same time'
phil.
#15