vaujot

When unloaded, M033 springs are shorter than M030s. At least that's what I have been told.

crw

I am awaiting some new plastic clips and rubber boots before re-installing the struts and shocks.

In the meanitime I am still cleaning the cosmoline which is like Kryptonite. There is not much that touches it at all:

- simple green, no
- car cleaner, no
- brake cleaner, no

The only thing that seems to work is a wire wheel on a dremel or drill - which is very time and labor intensive.

I want to avoid mineral sprits due to the volatility.

I have hope for Stoner Xenit Citrus Cleaner and Zymol Strik - we shall see.

I have been asked to post a measurement of the MO33 springs.

These are comfort European Porsche springs which provide a lowering of @ 1.5 inches and a more comfortable ride than the stock springs.

The form measure 11 inches and the rear 13 inches.

IXLR8

That is what I used. I used Dunk and kerosene to get most of it off, followed by Xenit and then a water based degreaser.

It doesn't just wash off. You need to let it soak and to agitate it with a paint or toothbrush and repeat numerous times.

Wire wheels remove the clear anodizing.

crw

I place the MO33 springs next to the stock springs.

They are the same length.

It must be a combination of the spring stiffness and Koni strut/shock set up that produced a lower ride height than the factory set up.

shamrock

Any update!?
Following this thread with interest ...

crw

Current updates:

I am awaiting new rubber boots and bumpers for the stuts/shocks and then they will be set to go in.

The wheel wells and undercarriage was a sea of old comsmoline.

I tried many things, but most things did not make a dent in it:

- simple green - no
- brake clean - no
- Dawn soap - no
- WD40 -no
- Xenit citrus cleaner by Stoner - very little.

I read on-line about a Product made by Zymol called "Strik." Most of the reviews were VG, but quite a few were on sites that were selling the stuff, so I was skeptical. I read about it on a few detaining forums and decided to give it a try.

It is expensive (@$35/8 0unces), but it can be diluted from 1:1 to 1:3. It works great. Let it sit for a 20 minutes and then the cosmoline diasppears with light brushing with a toothbrush. It seems like light brushing works alot better than heavy brushing. The small bottle is enough for the whole car since it does not evaoprate much and goes on with a spray bottle so very little needs to be used each time.

It works extremely well and is worth the price.



The wheels wells are clean (they were coated with cosmoline and were yellow/brown before). I will redye the plastic with "Forever Black" which works well and is extremely durable.
















The drivetrain is almost done (one more 1 hour session should remove the rest of the crud).

Before I started all of the metal looked like yellow slime. The rest of the the crud will be gone tommorrow.







The rear shocks are disassembled by using an 18 mm deep socket on the top nut while griping the shaft with a vice drip to prevent rotation. Letting the top nut soak with a lubricant overnight was needed.



In the meantime I pulled my ISV valve which needed cleaning (surging idle at the end of the season (brake clean worked well). The inside had enough carbon in it to cause surging at idle.

kg4nih

CRW - I'm doing the same install. The last of my parts arrived today and I plan to start disassembly this weekend. I have all the tools I need except maybe for a spring compressor. Did you use one?

crw

No spring compressor is needed.

What has held me up is that I am waiting for some rubber parts that I did not anticipate prior to gettingthe shocks/struts out - new rubber dust boots, bumpers, and gasket at the top of the strut.

Everything looks so nice, I didn't want to reinstall old rubber parts that were 15+ years old and looked aged.

For the strut - use the Hazat socket/allen wrench (or equivalent) to get the top nut off. The spring is not under any significant tension.

For the shock, grip the shaft with a vice grip and use an 18mm deep socket up top. The spring has minimal tension - you don't need a compressor.

I have a few items to keep me busy until the parts come:

- refinishing brake calipers
- bleeding brakes
- final cleaning of underbody and suspension
- redye of the black trim

No rush, it's 6 degrees here in Ohio, but 65 in my gararge/shop;

993KT

Great write up and pictures! I will be doing that soon, and its great to know what the difficult parts are. Too bad the lack of a heated garage and work travel will push that into the spring.

You should check the rear axle boots are in good shape while you are in there. I had to get a new drive shaft because I didn't catch that early enough. Check all the suspension bushings and ball joints too.

Good luck with the rest of the work!

bcameron59

Might want to consider caliper refresh ie new seals and dust boots before reinstall & bleed.

+1 on checking axle boots. While you're in there.... Also suggest checking or consider replacing:

- front ball joints
- front control arm bushings
- boots on your other suspension bits, especially toe control arms (rear) and drop links (front & rear)?

All of above were either toast or very tired at 120k miles on my C4.

Nice work and have fun with the rest!

MarkD

Couple of notes

ROW springs are shorter than US

M030 springs are progressive
M033 are not

JME66

crw - Great write up - Thank you for your detailed approach.
I am looking forward to seeing photos of your new improved ride height. Please post your photos ASAP. I am considering this suspension upgrade, but I am concerned about the stance. The lack of adjustment threads on the rear struts worries me. I want to achieve a lower stance without the rear sitting lower than front. I hope you achieve the ride quality and look you are after.

Marco8

subscribed

kg4nih

CRW - great thread. I'm a couple of steps behind you. FWIW - I found it easier to drop the struts and then remove the top nut. I used a 21mm spark plug socket w/ flats, adjustable wrench, and 7mm allen wrench per Jackals racetrack (link here - http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/9...uspension.html). The top nuts were very tight and I was worried about the wrench slipping and collateral damage while mounted. NP using these tools once the strut was out.

I suppose you are going to cut a notch in the FSDs for the brake-line?

crw

I have had some delays.

My Koni kit got shipped without the 22mm top nuts for the struts. I am awaiting these from Koni.

In the meantime, my undercarriage has been detailed:








The project hit a little bit of a cluster f. with regard to the rear shocks.

Part of the problem is that the instructions sent by Koni have minimal detail and direction.

There is a silver ring shock perch on which the spring sits. This ring has a tiny indent that has to face downward.

Not the small diferrence in the 2 pictures below the silver ring.





Here is where things went bad:

The kit came only 2 nuts (19 mm). There should have been 2 (19mm) nuts for the shocks and 2 (22mm ) nuts for the struts.

I assumed that the 2 nuts in the were for the struts and that I was to use the OEM 18mm nuts on the shocks - MY MISTAKE.

After a few turns I realized the shock tock the 19mm nut, not the 18mm nuts.. I backed it off and finished putting the shocks together.



After I was done, I am embarrassed to say that on one of the set-ups, I had the silver ring inverted.

This occurred (of course) on the side which I had cross threaed on the top. The unit at this point was already together, so I figured I would just take it apart and invert the ring.

The 19mm nut back off until I got to the top threads. It then would not budge.

I tried so extra forced with breaker bar and sanpped off the 6mm Allen wrench in the hex at the top of the shock.

So now, I can't get this nut off and I have a piece of the allen wrench stuck inside.






I am going to get help from a friend on Monday.

I am open to ideas.

What we were thinking is:

1. Tack weld to the allen wrench bit and pull it out.
2. Cut off the 19mm nut with a diamond wheel
3. Clean up the 19mm theads with a die
4. New 19mm nut

If the Allen wrench bit won't come out, I can hold the shock shaft with a vice grip and tighten the 19mm nut down to 43 pounds similar to the OEM set up (which does not have a hollow hex anyway).

I think I can salavge this.

Worse case scenario I am going to have to purchase a new single shock for $250.

Learn from my mistake.