High Mile 993, Things to do, Additions, Amplifications, editorial comments requested
#1
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High Mile 993, Things to do, Additions, Amplifications, editorial comments requested
What to consider servicing / replacing when purchasing a 993 with over 90K miles on the clock:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.com/
Andy
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.com/
Andy
Last edited by pp000830; 01-24-2021 at 02:13 PM.
#2
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I'll just start with a couple of things that pop out.
1. How many of us have had transaxle issues? Can I count them on one hand, mileage notwithstanding? These are NOT Porsche synchro boxes...... (I could count on having probably one 915 /901/741 box a WEEK apart when I had either of my shops going.)
2. What does a worn damper have to do with the car's ride height? Further, if they ARE worn, on imperfect surfaces you would have a damper that doesn't, well, damp. It's certainly not going to be harsh. And I'll put up the overall expense of replacing a Bilstein outright v. sending it back for rebuiliding--likely not worth the hassle for nearly 100% of the end users of a basic street damper.
1. How many of us have had transaxle issues? Can I count them on one hand, mileage notwithstanding? These are NOT Porsche synchro boxes...... (I could count on having probably one 915 /901/741 box a WEEK apart when I had either of my shops going.)
2. What does a worn damper have to do with the car's ride height? Further, if they ARE worn, on imperfect surfaces you would have a damper that doesn't, well, damp. It's certainly not going to be harsh. And I'll put up the overall expense of replacing a Bilstein outright v. sending it back for rebuiliding--likely not worth the hassle for nearly 100% of the end users of a basic street damper.
#3
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I'll just start with a couple of things that pop out.
1. How many of us have had transaxle issues? Can I count them on one hand, mileage notwithstanding? These are NOT Porsche synchro boxes...... (I could count on having probably one 915 /901/741 box a WEEK apart when I had either of my shops going.)
2. What does a worn damper have to do with the car's ride height? Further, if they ARE worn, on imperfect surfaces you would have a damper that doesn't, well, damp. It's certainly not going to be harsh. And I'll put up the overall expense of replacing a Bilstein outright v. sending it back for rebuiliding--likely not worth the hassle for nearly 100% of the end users of a basic street damper.
1. How many of us have had transaxle issues? Can I count them on one hand, mileage notwithstanding? These are NOT Porsche synchro boxes...... (I could count on having probably one 915 /901/741 box a WEEK apart when I had either of my shops going.)
2. What does a worn damper have to do with the car's ride height? Further, if they ARE worn, on imperfect surfaces you would have a damper that doesn't, well, damp. It's certainly not going to be harsh. And I'll put up the overall expense of replacing a Bilstein outright v. sending it back for rebuiliding--likely not worth the hassle for nearly 100% of the end users of a basic street damper.
My reasoning for item one was that I had the experience of worn synchros on my car. I have heard from others this is very rare, your point is well taken.
My reasoning on item two was that my car with the original OE struts and dampers and aftermarket springs over time began to sit too low to the point of grounding the edge of the rear bumper cover when starting up the hill on my driveway.
I replaced the springs and struts/dampers with the H&R Sport coil-over kit allowing for restoring ride height and an unexpected profound reduction of rather harsh vibration when driving over rough- brick/cobblestone roads. You have a good point as part of the problem may have been related to the springs where the ride height caused the suspension to just sit on the bump stops.
Andy :-)
#4
I've got 87,000 miles on mine and I've done (or found done upon purchase) nearly all of the things on your list. I asked my tech about the power steering belt and he said it wasn't a concern at my mileage. I'll get around to the ICV but at the moment the idle is rock steady. I thought I had a noisy lifter when I purchased it but I switched to Brad Penn 20W-50 and I could swear it is quieter. Door check needs attention...
#7
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Updated List
Updated list attached:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.com/
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.com/
Last edited by pp000830; 01-24-2021 at 02:12 PM.
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#8
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If it helps any, I've had the struts replaced. I had the clutch replaced once and the slave cylinder once. My current clutch has ~210,000 miles on it and is at the end of its' life, but I have mastered driving the car and not completely stopping, thus not using up much clutch. I had the odometer repaired when it stopped working a few years ago. I do get the clunking going into second gear when it's cold out and the car is cold. It doesn't do that in the spring and summer though.
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If the car starts easily and runs reliably do not consider any actions that involves internal engine repairs. 993s tend to have a little uneven rumble at idle – this is normal. A slight cycling of the RPM on cold days, a small stumble on acceleration when the engine is cold or in very hot weather, an engine that uses some oil between oil changes, this is normal stuff.
And most importantly don’t go Neurotic, just enjoy the car!
You know the line, “accept the things I should not fix, have courage to fix the things I must and have the wisdom to know the difference”
Andy
And most importantly don’t go Neurotic, just enjoy the car!
You know the line, “accept the things I should not fix, have courage to fix the things I must and have the wisdom to know the difference”
Andy
#11
Drifting
^^ +1 best advice i got from my mechanic after reviewing a mile long list of prev maintenance items i was looking into was, "just drive the damn thing and repair it when it breaks". Hard to accept given my nature but he was right. 2 wonderful years of ownership later and only item so far was dead DME.
#12
I bought a high mileage car (80,000) and now it is higher (157,000). My approach is to first ensure all the required maintenance is up to date. If you cannot confirm that all the fluids and filters are on schedule, then change them so you have a baseline. After that, fix things as they present themselves.
I would not plan on changing the rack or tierods or synchros or any other major component unless they are having a problem. Drive the car, enjoy it and fix things as they come up.
I did change the DME relay as a preventative measure and put fresh batteries in the remote.
I would not plan on changing the rack or tierods or synchros or any other major component unless they are having a problem. Drive the car, enjoy it and fix things as they come up.
I did change the DME relay as a preventative measure and put fresh batteries in the remote.