Meatball964

I'm the guy Andraya is referring to. Placed the order in Feb w/ 3 month lead time (which means they don't know when it's going to be available). Adding this to my next winter project list (2014/2015)....hopefully.

blacksparrow

I had thought about the Elephant route, but also was thinking of the ball joints... sounds like a juggle, wouldn't be opposed if I had the time.

One option, maybe I do all but the KT arms for now and leave original parts. Order the KT now with the rest... then get back in there later if/when they become avail.

Are the KT harder to do or can they be done independent of the other rear suspension parts... meaning do I have to tear into all of it again to get to those? A-arms seem harder to do from the diagrams, so thinking get those in now, but maybe I am wrong on that?

Shop wants to button the car back up asap, to get to paint work... been taking up the lift too long with my mods

blacksparrow

Did you get all the other parts and just waiting on that?!

Sounds like fun, wish I had time/space to do it myself.

Bill Verburg

Sure you can do all except the KT arms. And then you could replace the KT arm at a later date, you would need to realign the car.

Yes, the track(A) arm is the hardest to do and the most important

Spyder_Man

Thanks to your mishap this thread is proving to be a great learning resource for us all.

Meatball964

I ordered the "non RS specific" OEM rear control arms from Pelican. Someone had a web coupon that I used & with free shipping, I jumped on it. I knew eventually I would need them once the RS parts come in.

blacksparrow

Bill

Sorry to ask this, I don't have a shop manual to look at, just the diagram and its pretty lo res, hard to tell. Will I need to remove more than the wheel to get to this arm for replacement, are other parts involved with going back in, coil over removal, etc.?

Also, on your parts list; I find the KT arms and the Camber Arms, but is there a Center arm missing on the Blue list?

I see a 3rd arm on the diagram and when I go to Pelican, they have a part #993.331.043.01 that I do not see on your list... assuming this is like the Camber Arm and is standard issue and should be replaced as well?

Thanks

blacksparrow

Was considering that and have been using pelican as a reference... working with Andraya, her prices seem very fair, so will likely get all from her.

That said, where did you get the coupon

Assume the TRW parts from Pelican and the Porsche parts are the same just not branded Porsche but still made by TRW?

blacksparrow

glad to be of service

Bill Verburg

No just the wheel, the KT arm is top rear arm, 1 nut on each end

RS KT arm, the aluminum is marked w/ a blue dot , rubber w/ a green dot, .80 part #



Installed, top rear




The toe arm(bottom rear most) isn't in my ss, I use Tarrett monoball w/ locks for that

here's a pic w/ the shock out of the way and the toe link removed

Meatball964

Tease !

blacksparrow

Great info. Later I can swap to KT relatively easy on my own with a re-alignment. Solid on that. Ordering RS A-arms from Germany now so those go in.

So the Toe Arm you replaced on Bottom (missing from pix) is equivalent to the Center Arm #993.331.043.01, that was not on your Blue List, if I am reading this correctly.

Assuming for my street use, your solution is overkill and I stay with that stock arm.

ToSi

Elephant will sell a partial set.. I bought 4 pcs when updating mine a couple years ago.

The other thing to keep in mind is that by stiffening those bushings & reducing the KT effect, you're going to make the car *more* likely to swap ends.. the passive rear steering is meant to stabilize the rear end, particularly on the street where you aren't flirting w/ the limit continuously.

Bill Verburg

Yes , the toe arm is 993.331.043.00 x2, .01 is probably a newer part # for the same part and yes, use it for street use, the mono-ball part is great for track use not so much for street use unless you are really hardcore

blacksparrow

So if I read you, by stiffening up bushings, its going to make it more likely to come unglued faster in rear end (on corners at limit, for example as happened to me), as it is stiffer and less forgiving...

Is that the right idea or did you mean something else by "swap ends"?