lexart

Yes, the crank pulley bolt is torqued to 180 ft/lbs, if memory serves me correctly. When Lev's fan blew apart last year, we had to drop the motor to replace cut engine harness, crank pulley and among other damaged parts. With the engine on the stand it was quite an ordeal to get the crank pulley off. Thought I'd tip the engine off the stand with all the required force. With the motor in the car, I don't believe there's enough room to get socket on breaker bar in the tight space.

lexart

. . . another data point I should mention.

When the fan comes apart, it is also very likely that the shaft of the alternator can get slightly bent. Spin your alternator by hand and make sure that there's absolutely *no* off-center play in the alternator shaft. If you detect any play, I'm afraid new alternator will be in order. We had to replace it on Lev's car . . .

knorrena

There is just enough room for me to get my power bar and a 19mm socket on. Getting it back on will be another matter.

My plan is to put the car in 6th with the ebrake engaged to loosen the bolt. I wonder if it might be a good idea to buy a new bolt?

From what i can tell, and i hope this is true, the crank pulley does not have a sealing surface on it for the rear crank. In other words, the crank seal rides on the crank and not the crank pulley. Is this true?

If it is not true, then should i drain the oil or does the dry sump scavenge it all and i need not worry?

bcameron59

Hi Karl - seal is independent of the pulley & bolt, i wouldn't worry about replacing it until you have occasion to drop the engine for other reasons (eg new clutch, or top end rebuild). No oil change. New bolt not required.

So... is that table cocobolo, or what?

knorrena

Well it appears that you sleep about as much as i do.

The table is made of teak root. I will post a picture of it tomorrow.

knorrena

For the record, you CANNOT remove a crank pulley with the motor mount attached.

Steve, I thought I would at least get all the stuff off so you and I could make short work of putting it all back together. Things quickly took a different path.

What while your in theres should I be thinking about given that I will have most of the back end apart? The cam chain cover gaskets are one thing. Is there anything else?

Karl

knorrena

Jebus, now what? I just found the PCar workshop website and reviewed it. I does not quite cover what I need. From what I can suss out I would essentially be dropping the whole exhaust system cat included plus all the heat shielding.

bcameron59

Did you see geolab's post on this?

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...n-car-diy.html

knorrena

Well I'll be damned. I looked at those wrenches today and it didn't even dawn on me. Thanks!

trophy

Hey Karl,

If the exhaust bolts etc are not rusted, it is actually not too much work to pull the cats and shield off the car, you then have full and clear access to the pulley and bolt. The biggest challenge doing it with everything still in the car is fitting the torque wrench in to tighten the pulley bolt, while holding the pulley.

I could probably swing by your place some time this week to take a look at everything if you like.

pp000830

I have hunch that the bearing the fan rides on develops some play. The blades begin to scrape against the housing and develop fatigue wear until part of one of the blades comes off and all hell breaks loose. I wonder if it all begins with an over tightened alternator/AC belt that pulls the center shaft to one side?
Others' thoughts on this?
Andy

knorrena

Well its off. I had to saw the end off my new wrench to get a big *** snipe on it, but its off. Now getting the new one on is another matter...

TouringTeg

Good work! Crank pulley bolts can incredibly tough to remove. The only one I removed was on my 89 Skyline GTR. Crank bolt torque spec: 329 - 344 ft/lbs. I had to rent a giant 3/4 drive torque wrench and buy the socket.

knorrena

The worst one i have done was my land cruiser. It was 310ftlbs. When i broke it loose my wife came running into the garage because she thought i had broken something.

CaptainGSR

The recommended belt tensions from Porsche are crazy. I replaced my belts once, and using a different amount of shims, I left them a lot looser. I have had no problems in 3 years (no noise/vibration/slipping.)
The fan belt was ripping. I had 2/3rd of the width left when I noticed the tear. It was set at the correct tension (yes, I have a gauge.) It showed no sign of cracking nor wear and tear anywhere else.
Most of my friends do the same thing and run looser belts.