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Going ALL In, P0410->doing the Top End

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Old 04-17-2014, 09:43 PM
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Kika
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Default Going ALL In, P0410->doing the Top End

History:
I purchased my 96 993 C2 in 2007 with 68K. Previous rear engined variants were a 911SC Targa and a 68 912. The 993 is perfect for me, sexy bulging hips, reminiscent of the early 930s, smooth torque, AC that works, sports car handling, yet tame enough to take the wife out for a date or a long weekend roadtrip.

My first encounter with the CEL came shortly thereafter, nearly had a heart attack, had images of an immediate $10K rebuild (although I had already budgeted for that) Had the system flushed, and that was that, then in 2010, the P0410 came back, this time we took more drastic measures, going to the roto-rooter method, again, all went well, and has been fine, until now.

ITS BAAAACK the dreaded P0410.

I absolutely love this car, and after a talk with my mechanic, I think it is time to go all in and have the top end done. I know I can limp it along and continue with less expensive alternatives, but with 97K now on it, I would rather refresh the motor and continue on.

I haven't worked out all the details of what else to do, (although I am sure I will get plenty of suggestions with various ways to empty my bank account from my Rennlist brothers and sisters)

I did a golden rod and LWF last fall along with a Griffiths evaporator (both awesome), so those are off the list.

I expect my car will be out of pocket for a while, but I should have it back in plenty of time for my Sept smog and registration.

For now, I'm going ALL IN!
Old 04-17-2014, 09:47 PM
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goofballdeluxe
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If you're gonna keep the car for a long time, that makes sense.

Who's doing the top-end for you?
Old 04-17-2014, 10:04 PM
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mr_bock
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Check the idle stabilization valve to make sure it is not coked up. Probably should clean it out anyway. You should feel it move as you rock it back and forth in your hand. Also the by pass check valve (I think that is what it is called) that is at the right rear of the engine. This needs the funny crows foot to remove. Mine was total rusted out.

Good Luck getting this settled out!!!
Old 04-17-2014, 10:09 PM
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Kika
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Having my local mechanic Ruben do the work.

When I flushed the system the first time, we replaced the SAI check valve. That was at 78k, in 2009. It was inspected last fall and was fine.

I'm not really sure if my valve guides are worn. I do add oil now and then, but I drive the infrequently, so it is tough to gauge consumption, mostly due to laziness on my part.

Last edited by Kika; 06-18-2014 at 12:49 PM.
Old 04-18-2014, 02:44 AM
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axl911
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Makes sense. It is an investment in the car. Question now is whether to split the case or not. If you will drive it for another 100k miles, then split the case.
Old 04-18-2014, 10:31 AM
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JB 911
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Good for you Keith. Nice to see owners driving, maintaining, and ultimately enjoying their cars as intended
Old 04-18-2014, 01:26 PM
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Cortellazzi
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not sure you checked , but there is a vacuum hose next to the check valve, make sure its connected, that was my problem.
Old 04-18-2014, 01:34 PM
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race911
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Originally Posted by axl911:11302748
Makes sense. It is an investment in the car. Question now is whether to split the case or not. If you will drive it for another 100k miles, then split the case.
No. Unless there is a specific lower end problem.
Old 04-18-2014, 01:35 PM
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Kika
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Originally Posted by axl911
Makes sense. It is an investment in the car. Question now is whether to split the case or not. If you will drive it for another 100k miles, then split the case.
I'll need to look into this a bit more, I'm a big fan of taking care of stuff while the motor is out, but what would be the rationale here to open the case if nothing indicates worn parts inside?

EDIT; thanks Ken!

At my rate if driving, it would take a LONG time to go another 100k, but I do in the on keeping the car for many many more years.

Originally Posted by Cortellazzi
not sure you checked , but there is a vacuum hose next to the check valve, make sure its connected, that was my problem.
Yes, checked, if that hose is disconnected, it will throw a code on both sides, P1411 and P0410. Thanks though.
Old 04-18-2014, 03:20 PM
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nine9six
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Keith,
Are you considering RS cams to go with your new valve guides, and freshly ground valves and seats?
Or are you keeping cams stock due to the limited tweaking of the 96 ECU?
Maybe new hyd lifters while you're in there?

I think once you are burning a qt of oil every 5-600 miles, its indeed time for a refreshed top end...

Good luck to you, and please keep us posted on what you and Ruben find...

Cheers,
Paul
Old 04-18-2014, 04:32 PM
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Kika
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Paul,
My plan is to keep everything stock, (except valve guides) Once we get it opened up, we will look at everything and see what else needs to be done (hopefully nothing!)
As I said before, I am a fan of taking care of things while we're in there, but my end goal is not to eek out every bit of torque that I can squeeze out of the motor. At the end of the day, its a street car for me and in its stock form, provides more performance than this driver can handle.


Originally Posted by nine9six
Keith,
Are you considering RS cams to go with your new valve guides, and freshly ground valves and seats?
Or are you keeping cams stock due to the limited tweaking of the 96 ECU?
Maybe new hyd lifters while you're in there?

I think once you are burning a qt of oil every 5-600 miles, its indeed time for a refreshed top end...

Good luck to you, and please keep us posted on what you and Ruben find...

Cheers,
Paul
Old 04-18-2014, 07:58 PM
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nine9six
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K,
At least reground (multi-angle?) valves and seats, lapped perpendicular to those new mat'l valve guides, yes?

Isn't that the basics of a top end job?
Old 04-18-2014, 08:43 PM
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Kika
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Originally Posted by nine9six
K,
At least reground (multi-angle?) valves and seats, lapped perpendicular to those new mat'l valve guides, yes?

Isn't that the basics of a top end job?
Paul,
Anything that is part of the basic job WILL be done.

Extras will be done on an as needed or makes basic/value sense. I'm against high performance mods that open a can of worms or are going to diminish reliability. AGAIN, I DO NOT need or want to try and squeeze every ounce of performance from this motor. It ain't a race/track car, and I certainly am not an accomplished driver whose skills are limited by the 993, quite the opposite.

RS cams would put me on a path to remap the ECU, which with a 96 is not straight forward, or what I deem cost effective. If I could easily remap the ECU, then it would be an option, but it isn't, so negative on that one.

The plan is to keep this car, perhaps even pass it to my kids, so it will be done right, i.e. likely the heads will go to Steve Weiner, unless I find a reasonable facsimile to Rennsport locally.

I'm only going to do this once. I'm still at the early stage of this, so I am still in the planning stages. having said that, I do appreciate any suggestions for things to do.

Thus far, I know I plan to use aftermarket valve guides, and have the SAI ports expanded.
Old 04-18-2014, 08:46 PM
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M. Schneider
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Hey Kika -
If you would be so kind to post your "taking care of stuff" list we fellow Rennlist's will be sure to critique making certain to spend every last dollar of the budget. LoL ..
Seriously, what's the typical 3.6 top end rebuild budget these days. Ballpark $
I suppose at the age of our cars, and the 100k mileage mark insight for many, valve guides could be sooner than later.

Good luck ... and do post the details as the project progresses.
Old 04-18-2014, 08:54 PM
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goofballdeluxe
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^^^ +993

Also, since your local to SoCal, I'd love to hear any helpful advice and current pricing, since many of us will be embarking on this path sooner or later....

Best of luck with this re-build


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