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993 Windshield Cavity Fill Option

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Old 11-06-2014, 06:13 AM
  #16  
NYC993
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Originally Posted by Mike J
Is that stuff actually that sticky that it bonds to each painted surface as not to let any water pass? If any water gets past it, its actually worse than it being open, evaporation and venting will be much harder ...
Exactly. I'd rather just pull the outter seal and soak/blow the water out. And who knows how well this stuff really seals and what if moisture comes in gets trapped form wherever else? Wanter can get through anything given enough time.

I talked to a porsche "specialist" at one of the PCA tech events, and he said that the water by itself will not do any damage due to galvanized body. The issue arises if the windshield was replaced inapproriately (ie paint damage).

If you have no rust now, you may not have it for another 15-20 years and even if you do, it can be fixed when windshiled is replaced.

Rich's 300k+ mile cab has no rust.
Old 11-06-2014, 07:54 AM
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BradB
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It's great to see all possible options to cure this OEM design flaw. Thanks for the research!
Old 11-06-2014, 10:00 AM
  #18  
JB 911
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Originally Posted by NYC993
I talked to a porsche "specialist" at one of the PCA tech events, and he said that the water by itself will not do any damage due to galvanized body. The issue arises if the windshield was replaced inapproriately (ie paint damage).
Disagree with Porsche tech, plenty of posts with people with original winshields and rust on RL. I pull my seals 'the four corners' after washing and let dry out. The first few times I did it I was surprised how much crud was in the channels. I cleaned out the corners and rinsed them out but I think there is more crud along the seal. I think as you drive the seal rubs against the crud and eventually wears thru the paint and galvanized metal and then comes the rust. Just my theory. I'm planning to replace both my outer seals this winter, detail and wax the channels and install the new outer seals. Hopefully with my clean waxed channels the seals don't blow off at 100mph I'll keep you posted.

Originally Posted by BradB
It's great to see all possible options to cure this OEM design flaw. Thanks for the research!
+1 thanks for posting Mike
Old 11-06-2014, 03:21 PM
  #19  
Peter B
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When my front scuttle required paintwork and rust treatment the "Porsche Approved Bodyshop" replaced the screen about 2mm out of line with the result that the outer sealing strip just started to fall into the recess on the driver's side. No problem they said and filled up the space with black gunge similar to the above. Three years later and the scuttle rusted through with the result that I've had an even more extensive repair. this time the new screen was fitted correctly and the outer seal fitted perfectly. The original bodyshop is no longer "approved".....
Old 11-06-2014, 08:09 PM
  #20  
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Hi all,
Although I haven't been around long enough to have heard of this problem I am now wondering if the stuff FLEX SEAL is a possibility, if carefully taped off and sprayed into the channel. Again I have no idea what this problem is, but I will look into this further. Please respond if you think this is a possibility.

Jack
Old 11-06-2014, 10:54 PM
  #21  
AOW162435
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Mike,
I replaced my rear seal last year. Before doing so, I thoroughly cleaned the channel and was pleased that it was corrosion free.

Instead of using the 3M product you did, I purchased 3M Window Weld in a tube. After carefully masking both sides of the channel, I used my chalk gun to flow the Window Weld into the channel. All it took was a careful wipe with a gloved finger to give a smooth finish all around.






Andreas
Old 11-06-2014, 11:13 PM
  #22  
BradB
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Originally Posted by AOW162435
I replaced my rear seal last year.

Andreas
I need to do this as well. Was it a difficult job? Do you recall roughly what the OEM seal costs?
Old 11-07-2014, 02:10 PM
  #23  
six gun
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Keep a can of "compressed air" with your trunk stuff. after washing, rain, use it in ( with attached plastic nozzel) and you will be amazed at the water that runs down the side of your car. Not just from front and rear windshields but from the side windows as well as the door trim seals, around the tail lights. You can buy air cans in any hardware, electonics store.
Old 11-08-2014, 01:07 PM
  #24  
Aaron 993C2
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The 3M window weld looks like it would be seriously difficult to get out again if you ever had to remove it. I've currently got a quote to fix my window rust (about 3cm in the back passenger side from a previous owner) at $1300, assuming the rear window survives the removal.

After the repair is complete I think I will go for the option that Mike Cap is recommending. Worrying about getting caught in the rain or blowing out my seals with compressed air every time I wash the car presents an unacceptable level of stress for driving my 993, I want to focus on the visceral enjoyment the car brings.
Old 11-08-2014, 07:16 PM
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I'm under the impression the trapped water will eventually dry out once the car is say out in the sun? If so this could save the whole hassle of having to blow water out after every wash etc.

One our local body shop that has done plenty of these repairs suggest not to fill the gap, water will eventually penetrate and be trapped there = more problems. Therefore some sort of rust protector would make the most sense.

We've also seen plenty of cars with no rust issues and up here we are like the rain capital. It's definitely an issue for cars that've had improperly repaired windshields, mine suffered from this and had rust in areas outside of the corners too.

It would be interesting for those that have filled the gap to keep us posted on the success rate over the years.
Old 11-08-2014, 09:36 PM
  #26  
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I mulled over this for ages. Read all the articles.

Having recently repaired small rust in the rear window corner. I decided to prime & paint as a seal. Reasonably sure the window fitter didn't damage the paint on fitting.

And just recently replaced the front windscreen after a crack from a thrown up rock by another car. Pulled out the windscreen which revealed a small amount of surface rust in the channel. I had a local guy again prime & paint the front gutters before refitting a new window screen.

I use an air compressor to blow out any water after a washing the car. The car doesn't see much rain.

Hindsight in 10 years time will be the judge for leaving the gutters clear or filling with various sealants.
Old 11-11-2014, 01:46 PM
  #27  
pp000830
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Originally Posted by mike cap
filling the cavity
I recently had to replace my OEM original windshield. Once
the old windshield was removed I inspected the edges. My 96' had no corrosion present. I suspect unless you live in the north and drive where they use lots of sodium/calcium cloride on the roads you are trying to solve a problem that may not need to be solved.
Andy
Old 11-11-2014, 01:47 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mike cap
filling the cavity
I recently had to replace my OEM original windshield on my 90K miles 993. Once the old windshield was removed I inspected the edges. My 96' had no corrosion present. I suspect unless you live in the north and drive where they use lots of sodium/calcium cloride on the roads you are trying to solve a problem that may not need to be solved.
Andy
Old 11-11-2014, 02:46 PM
  #29  
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42K Tx car its whole life
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Old 11-11-2014, 05:02 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by six gun
42K Tx car its whole life
In my case the old windshield was original. On the car you picture was the windshield removed the original? The reason I ask is that many times when removing an old windshield the paint that seals the body from corrosion can get scraped off or scored possibly allowing corrosion form under the gasket.
Andy


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