Too much Oil
09-05-2015, 05:31 PM
#32
RL Technical Advisor
Thread Starter
FYI,....
The "8 o'clock" position on the temp gauge is about 185 degrees F.
The "9 o'clock" position is about 210 degrees F.
Anything above the 8 o'clock position should be OK for checking the dipstick. You can touch the oil pipes under the right side rocker panel to make sure they are both hot, just to be sure the thermostat is all the way open.
The "8 o'clock" position on the temp gauge is about 185 degrees F.
The "9 o'clock" position is about 210 degrees F.
Anything above the 8 o'clock position should be OK for checking the dipstick. You can touch the oil pipes under the right side rocker panel to make sure they are both hot, just to be sure the thermostat is all the way open.
09-05-2015, 05:56 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
You'll typically see it run up to 9ish when warming after a cold start, then drop down some to somewhere above 8, that's when the t-stat opens. As Steve mentions, the feel on the pipes will confirm. 8:00 in and of itself may not be fully warmed.
09-05-2015, 07:14 PM
#36
09-05-2015, 09:17 PM
#37
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I'm guessing when Ed Hughes wrote "9ish", it's to allow for variations between individual cars. In my case, it goes to about 8:20 
and immediately drops to just below 8. If you aren't able to pay close enough attention to the movements of the oil temp gauge - perhaps you're distracted by the road ahead of you? - "9ish" on the gauge will ensure sufficiently hot oil. BTW this takes some time & effort on cold days.
and immediately drops to just below 8. If you aren't able to pay close enough attention to the movements of the oil temp gauge - perhaps you're distracted by the road ahead of you? - "9ish" on the gauge will ensure sufficiently hot oil. BTW this takes some time & effort on cold days.
09-05-2015, 09:39 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
And I've said this years ago, there is nothing wrong with relying on the gauge on a daily basis but you have to have to know its indication with respect to that on the dipstick. In other words, when the dipstick shows half, my gauges needle shows this. It is a form of calibration.
09-05-2015, 10:03 PM
#39
Drifting
I remember seeing this equation this summer:
Specific volume of a unit can be expressed as
The change in the units volume when temperature change can be expressed as
dV = V0 β (t1 - t0) (2)
v = 1 / ρ = V / m (1)
where
v = specific volume (m3/kg)
ρ = density (kg/m3)
V = volume of unit (m3)
m = mass of unit (kg)...........
I impress myself whenever I read anything that doesn't have text in cartoon bubbles. I'm going to have to upgrade my bathroom reading materials to hang with you guys.
09-05-2015, 10:04 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
And I've said this years ago, there is nothing wrong with relying on the gauge on a daily basis but you have to have to know its indication with respect to that on the dipstick. In other words, when the dipstick shows half, my gauges needle shows this. It is a form of calibration.
09-05-2015, 11:00 PM
#41
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You will have to answer that yourself. Everyone's gauge probably shows a slightly different reading when the oil is at half way (or wherever) on the dipstick.
My calibration is: my oil gauge sits at the top of the red solid line (engine hot, level, running) when the oil is 1/3 of the way up the twisted section of the dipstick. If the gauge is not reaching the top of the red solid line, that suggests it's time to check the oil level via the dipstick.
My calibration is: my oil gauge sits at the top of the red solid line (engine hot, level, running) when the oil is 1/3 of the way up the twisted section of the dipstick. If the gauge is not reaching the top of the red solid line, that suggests it's time to check the oil level via the dipstick.
09-05-2015, 11:37 PM
#42
Rennlist Member
And I've said this years ago, there is nothing wrong with relying on the gauge on a daily basis but you have to have to know its indication with respect to that on the dipstick. In other words, when the dipstick shows half, my gauges needle shows this. It is a form of calibration.
Seems like Steve aptly addressed this with this statement in his first post:
"The one common denominator in all these occurrences is an unfailing trust in the oil level gauge. Since this instrument takes some skill and experience to correctly interpret the readings, misinterpretations leads to these issues."
09-06-2015, 12:47 AM
#43
I like the idea of the notch cut into the stick. The graphite spray, too.
I assume everyone's dipstick reads similar: When I pull the dipstick (after wiping dry first), it seems like the whole length of the twisted portion is wet (with a slight oil film) but the lower half is more wet. That is how mine reads and it is still difficult to be precise. Is that what you guys all find with yours?
Steve, What exactly is the Dow Corning graphite spray we ought to use?
I assume everyone's dipstick reads similar: When I pull the dipstick (after wiping dry first), it seems like the whole length of the twisted portion is wet (with a slight oil film) but the lower half is more wet. That is how mine reads and it is still difficult to be precise. Is that what you guys all find with yours?
Steve, What exactly is the Dow Corning graphite spray we ought to use?
09-06-2015, 01:11 AM
#44
When I pull the dipstick (after wiping dry first), it seems like the whole length of the twisted portion is wet (with a slight oil film) but the lower half is more wet. That is how mine reads and it is still difficult to be precise. Is that what you guys all find with yours?
09-06-2015, 02:36 AM
#45
Same here. I check the dipstick probably once a year (at most) to confirm that it's still consistent with the gauge. Otherwise I go by the gauge.