993 (non-turbo) engine rehab/rebuild in SF Bay Area
#1
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993 (non-turbo) engine rehab/rebuild in SF Bay Area
I took my new-to-me '97 C2S with 70k miles into a local indie (to remain unnamed for now) and we put it up on the rack for an inspection.
Beyond a consumables check, they also (rightfully) pointed out significant oil seepage from the engine casing and bolts on driver side, less but still some on the passenger side. Oil is also dripping onto heater boxes, creating the odor after driving (which I noticed immediately after receiving the car). They also pointed out burnt through insulation on a couple spark plug wires.
They quoted me $6k to reseal chain boxes, replace valve covers/gaskets, replace spark plugs/wires and clean out heater boxes.
I said if we are going that far what would a full top-end valve job cost, as many cars reaching that mileage will need it soon. They quoted $12K to do valve and ring job (with reconditioned heads by German Precision), including all of the above. Add another $1000 if I wanted the RS camshaft to add 15 hp.
This shop, while clearly experienced in handling air cooled cars in the SF Bay Area, has a mixed reputation this board, but they have always treated me well and I know the owner and while he can be a little bit of a cowboy at times, I believe he is trying to do me right.
But I figured I would ask RL'ers in the know the key questions...
1) Do the prices seems fair for the work indicated?
2) Who would you really trust in the greater SF Bay Area to do this work (which is obviously on a car that I plan to keep for the long haul)?
I know the usual shops are RMG in South Bay, Hi Tec and S Cargo in Marin, FD in Antioch, BR and Borelli in San Jose... I am not sure who is best at engine rehab on 993 air cooled mill...
...thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Beyond a consumables check, they also (rightfully) pointed out significant oil seepage from the engine casing and bolts on driver side, less but still some on the passenger side. Oil is also dripping onto heater boxes, creating the odor after driving (which I noticed immediately after receiving the car). They also pointed out burnt through insulation on a couple spark plug wires.
They quoted me $6k to reseal chain boxes, replace valve covers/gaskets, replace spark plugs/wires and clean out heater boxes.
I said if we are going that far what would a full top-end valve job cost, as many cars reaching that mileage will need it soon. They quoted $12K to do valve and ring job (with reconditioned heads by German Precision), including all of the above. Add another $1000 if I wanted the RS camshaft to add 15 hp.
This shop, while clearly experienced in handling air cooled cars in the SF Bay Area, has a mixed reputation this board, but they have always treated me well and I know the owner and while he can be a little bit of a cowboy at times, I believe he is trying to do me right.
But I figured I would ask RL'ers in the know the key questions...
1) Do the prices seems fair for the work indicated?
2) Who would you really trust in the greater SF Bay Area to do this work (which is obviously on a car that I plan to keep for the long haul)?
I know the usual shops are RMG in South Bay, Hi Tec and S Cargo in Marin, FD in Antioch, BR and Borelli in San Jose... I am not sure who is best at engine rehab on 993 air cooled mill...
...thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Last edited by golfnutintib; 09-11-2015 at 01:02 PM.
#2
Banned
1. 12K seems expensive to me, but a more detailed explanation of what they are doing for "top end" is needed. A RS cam by itself will not get you 15HP.
2. RMG
BTW not sure why you do not use the shops name...
2. RMG
BTW not sure why you do not use the shops name...
#3
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Go to RMG! Bob is the best!
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what would a full top-end valve job cost, as many cars reaching that mileage will need it soon.
Only engine related work I've had done was for the typical oil leaks and I had those done at Ken's Sportech in Campbell (tech is Mark). Mark is my go-to guy now for anything 993 - he's very thorough in making sure nothing is out of spec. I was also impressed with Bob at RMG when I had my steering rack replaced there 10 years ago and would gladly return if I lived closer.
#6
Drifting
Beyond a consumables check, they also (rightfully) pointed out significant oil seepage from the engine casing and bolts on driver side, less but still some on the passenger side. Oil is also dripping onto heater boxes, creating the odor after driving (which I noticed immediately after receiving the car). They also pointed out burnt through insulation on a couple spark plug wires.
They quoted me $6k to reseal chain boxes, replace valve covers/gaskets, replace spark plugs/wires and clean out heater boxes.
They quoted me $6k to reseal chain boxes, replace valve covers/gaskets, replace spark plugs/wires and clean out heater boxes.
$6k sounds really high to do valve covers plug wires, chain boxes, since the engine doesn't have to come out to do those. I've DIY'ed the lowers, wires, plugs, but not the uppers and chain boxes and it didn't seem that bad...All those parts are
#7
Rennlist Member
All the legacy specialists around here have their pros and cons, but the simple fact is they've all been in business for decades now. Even if prices are sometimes shockingly high.
Back to specifics, though. This job is ~20 hours and ~$1K in parts (majority being the spark plug wires).
No way, no how are RS cams on an otherwise stock engine getting you 15HP. My full-tilt 3.8 is 300HP with a stock exhaust.
While the valve guides are worn to the extent you'd replace them if they were as easy to change out as brake pads, it's a tough call. Bonus when you go into the top end is that you'll clean out all the secondary air injection as a byproduct. Unlikely you'd bother with anything else below the heads. My 4S was probably the first warranty SAI/smog fail job with a previous owner nearly 15 years ago at ~70K. At 150K now, no leaks, no issues, no nothing.
What the hell happened with the PPI on this thing????
Back to specifics, though. This job is ~20 hours and ~$1K in parts (majority being the spark plug wires).
No way, no how are RS cams on an otherwise stock engine getting you 15HP. My full-tilt 3.8 is 300HP with a stock exhaust.
While the valve guides are worn to the extent you'd replace them if they were as easy to change out as brake pads, it's a tough call. Bonus when you go into the top end is that you'll clean out all the secondary air injection as a byproduct. Unlikely you'd bother with anything else below the heads. My 4S was probably the first warranty SAI/smog fail job with a previous owner nearly 15 years ago at ~70K. At 150K now, no leaks, no issues, no nothing.
What the hell happened with the PPI on this thing????
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