Cactus

All stands are at the jack points.

Foxman

Thanks for posting Cactus, helpful thread. But you're not using the right puck.

95_993

+993 on this technique. Saw it posted here years back and I've been using it ever since. So much easier than the other side to side technique .

flyingchappy

Same here.

bobbyp

Thanks for the repost Cac, having the pictures back brings it all together. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words.

TJ993

Thanks Cactus
I have the Factory Aero with lower front Spoiler as well - so I have same concerns with Jack Point.

Just hoping to be Lazy. Avoid using wood.

Looking for a new jack that enables clearance under bumper AND avoids any contact while being able to reach engine lift point.

Like the Front Lift approach!
Never seen nor thought of that one!
Thanks TJ

zechunique

Has ANYONE here EVER had ANY problems come out of using the engine case to lift the rear? I'm not trying to stir the pot on this one, but that method would be ideal for me if I knew for CERTAIN that its safe and has never directly lead to any problems for us here.

Because I have a pit in my garage I don't need to jack the car regularly, but when I do the jacking process is complicated by the pit itself getting in the way.

Quadcammer

It probably doesn't do the engine mounts any favors, but they will likely wear out before damage from jacking the engine case causes an outright failure.

mpruden

No problems here - and I've had my car in the air a lot, always by the "Cactus method".

BTW - with the boring NB front bumper and ROW sport height, I can fit the jack and 2x6 under the front of the car without having to deal with the 2x8s. Easy peasy.

bobbyp

Where does the front 2x6 make contact?

Would something like this work?

http://http://m.harborfreight.com/st...eam-60762.html

JB 911

mojorizing has a unique way to raise his. He even ref's the cactus method. Cactus method is famous!

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...d-setting.html

As for me, I still use the teeter toter method (right side, left side). I use two jacks and wheel chocks and have grown comfortable with it. I am on original motor mounts at 60k and they don't leak. I got new hockey pucks from our 'Play it again' sports outlet (used sports eq store) they were cheap like a $ each and use them on the jacks.

No matter which way you do it going slow is the key. Everybodys heard a story about a car falling...

mpruden

Post 1, fifth picture down.

I would think that HF cross beam would complicate things and not spread the load evenly. A 2x6x24" is perfect.

OverBoosted28

To add to this, I have a two stage system that I use sometimes. Lift car and put it on these stands. This is if I want susp. loaded (removing preload etc), then I have these truck stands that are perfect. Ground off corners off tops of stands, and they fit into Rennline jacking cups. Place them into jack points, and lift. They have periodic locks, so it doesn't rely on constant hydraulic pressure.

OverBoosted28

bart1

I always jack the rear by the engine case, but I have a 2x4 I use between the jack and the case - trying to spread the load out as much as possible. I'm always nervous about the front - think I will make a board for that and put some dense rubber on it.