Dye job - the journey
03-19-2016, 06:22 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Dye job - the journey
I finally collected the tools needed to start this job. I'll share my progress and pics here. Maybe it will help others but more likely I'll get feedback along the way that will improve my results.
Every step I am following is based on this excellent post by autobonrun located here : http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...procedure.html
So far I have managed to get my seat out if the car and separate the top from the bottom.
Every step I am following is based on this excellent post by autobonrun located here : http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...procedure.html
So far I have managed to get my seat out if the car and separate the top from the bottom.
03-19-2016, 06:28 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
For the prep work I am using Leatherique products:
- Pristine Clean
- Softening Oil
- Prepping Agent
For the dye, I am using Color Plus.
The condition of my seat is what i'd call heavily creased. No cracks but deep creases for sure.
- Pristine Clean
- Softening Oil
- Prepping Agent
For the dye, I am using Color Plus.
The condition of my seat is what i'd call heavily creased. No cracks but deep creases for sure.
03-19-2016, 08:17 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thanks for posting these. I will be following this project with interest - I appreciate the very close-up pictures of the creases that you are attempting to rectify.
03-19-2016, 09:05 PM
#5
I've done two sets of seats with the leatherique system. I found the best method for stripping the old dye without remove the grain in the leather is to use red scotchbrite pads saturated in the prepping agent. Takes lots of time, but I got most of the old dye off exposing raw tan leather.
If you're careful about avoiding any non leather areas, lacquer thinner on a rag will break the dye down even faster. It can't touch the vinyl portions though as it will melt it.
If you're careful about avoiding any non leather areas, lacquer thinner on a rag will break the dye down even faster. It can't touch the vinyl portions though as it will melt it.
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03-20-2016, 11:50 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Top-Gun
I found the best method for stripping the old dye without remove the grain in the leather is to use red scotchbrite pads saturated in the prepping agent.
If you're careful about avoiding any non leather areas, lacquer thinner on a rag will break the dye down even faster. It can't touch the vinyl portions though as it will melt it.
If you're careful about avoiding any non leather areas, lacquer thinner on a rag will break the dye down even faster. It can't touch the vinyl portions though as it will melt it.
My first pass with the prepping agent did remove a lot of dye. I can see that the deep creases were mostly related to the cracks in the dye and probably don't require any crack filler which I really want to avoid if possible.
From the pictures below it doesn't really look that much better than before the prepping agent application, but when I push on the leather with my thumb, it doesn't seem to fold on the old crease lines as much which I believe is a good sign regarding the condition of the leather under the dye.
I didn't get enough dye off with the prepping agent. Today I will attempt the Lacquer thinner. I will be VERY careful to about the vinyl. I'd like to tape it off but am afraid that if I use the wrong tape, I'll get some thinner that will absorb through and make contact with the vinyl and I won't notice until I peel away the tape and by then it will be too late.
Anyone have a good trick to keep the thinner away from the vinyl?
03-20-2016, 02:34 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok, just completed the Lacquer Thinner stage. It is super smelly and strong - even in a well ventilated area I was feeling a bit light headed so beware.
I have to say, I was expecting the thinner to remove enough dye to make all the creases disappear but this was not the case. You can see from the picture below of one of the rags, a lot of day did come off. I'll let this dry for the day and then do another pass with the prepping agent before applying rejuvenator oil.
Learnings so far - the 8 oz bottle of prepping agent will only last for one seat.
I have to say, I was expecting the thinner to remove enough dye to make all the creases disappear but this was not the case. You can see from the picture below of one of the rags, a lot of day did come off. I'll let this dry for the day and then do another pass with the prepping agent before applying rejuvenator oil.
Learnings so far - the 8 oz bottle of prepping agent will only last for one seat.
03-20-2016, 04:51 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Neither the prepping agent nor lacquer thinner will get all the old dye off. It will just look dull. It's more important not to overscrub. Tends to turn to suede, If you've applied both chemicals you're ready for the next step. Yours look like mine did just before the dye.
I took some photos in February showing the look of dyed seats after 10 years. Need to update my original thread.
I took some photos in February showing the look of dyed seats after 10 years. Need to update my original thread.
03-20-2016, 04:52 PM
#12
Looks good, I would keep going with another round of prepping agent/scotchbrite and thinner.
When you get the dye off to a level your happy with, coat it in rejuvenator oil and tie the seat halves up in green garbage bags. Set the bags out in the sun for a few hours. Open them up, reapply the oil, and repeat as many times as you want.
The heat really opens the pores of the leather up allowing the oil in, and the dirt out. Once you clean the oil off with the pristine clean you'll be amazed at how soft the leather is.
I would not use any of the crack repair on those seats. You'll have some creases and character even after you get the dye off, but that repair stuff looks terrible. I had one little knick in a bolster on mine where I used that filler; it sticks out like a sore thumb after the dye is applied.
If you have air at home, Princess Auto sells a small HVLP touch-up gun which works great for applying the dye. I used the leatherique dye thinned slightly with demineralized water but I'm sure the Colorplus stuff sprays equally well.
When you get the dye off to a level your happy with, coat it in rejuvenator oil and tie the seat halves up in green garbage bags. Set the bags out in the sun for a few hours. Open them up, reapply the oil, and repeat as many times as you want.
The heat really opens the pores of the leather up allowing the oil in, and the dirt out. Once you clean the oil off with the pristine clean you'll be amazed at how soft the leather is.
I would not use any of the crack repair on those seats. You'll have some creases and character even after you get the dye off, but that repair stuff looks terrible. I had one little knick in a bolster on mine where I used that filler; it sticks out like a sore thumb after the dye is applied.
If you have air at home, Princess Auto sells a small HVLP touch-up gun which works great for applying the dye. I used the leatherique dye thinned slightly with demineralized water but I'm sure the Colorplus stuff sprays equally well.
03-20-2016, 07:36 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
Looks good, I would keep going with another round of prepping agent/scotchbrite and thinner.
When you get the dye off to a level your happy with, coat it in rejuvenator oil and tie the seat halves up in green garbage bags. Set the bags out in the sun for a few hours. Open them up, reapply the oil, and repeat as many times as you want.
The heat really opens the pores of the leather up allowing the oil in, and the dirt out. Once you clean the oil off with the pristine clean you'll be amazed at how soft the leather is.
I would not use any of the crack repair on those seats. You'll have some creases and character even after you get the dye off, but that repair stuff looks terrible. I had one little knick in a bolster on mine where I used that filler; it sticks out like a sore thumb after the dye is applied.
If you have air at home, Princess Auto sells a small HVLP touch-up gun which works great for applying the dye. I used the leatherique dye thinned slightly with demineralized water but I'm sure the Colorplus stuff sprays equally well.
When you get the dye off to a level your happy with, coat it in rejuvenator oil and tie the seat halves up in green garbage bags. Set the bags out in the sun for a few hours. Open them up, reapply the oil, and repeat as many times as you want.
The heat really opens the pores of the leather up allowing the oil in, and the dirt out. Once you clean the oil off with the pristine clean you'll be amazed at how soft the leather is.
I would not use any of the crack repair on those seats. You'll have some creases and character even after you get the dye off, but that repair stuff looks terrible. I had one little knick in a bolster on mine where I used that filler; it sticks out like a sore thumb after the dye is applied.
If you have air at home, Princess Auto sells a small HVLP touch-up gun which works great for applying the dye. I used the leatherique dye thinned slightly with demineralized water but I'm sure the Colorplus stuff sprays equally well.
03-20-2016, 08:10 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hmm, that was one difference between your instructions and the instructions from the dye manufacturer - oil after prepping or not.
I did apply oil already before seeing these two posts. The bolsters where I really worked it hard were very dry. They have absorbed four applications of oil in the first two hours.
What is the downside of applying oil and then using pristine clean before applying the dye?
I did apply oil already before seeing these two posts. The bolsters where I really worked it hard were very dry. They have absorbed four applications of oil in the first two hours.
What is the downside of applying oil and then using pristine clean before applying the dye?
