blue smoke and ping
08-11-2016, 07:20 AM
#1
blue smoke and ping
Engine developed ping and some blue smoke at part throttle while in stop and go traffic.
Then large puff of blue smoke on start after sitting for a few hours.
Ran just fine and didn't smoke after that.
A couple thousand miles/months ago it puffed a little blue smoke on startup several times, hot or cold.
98k miles, 1 qt/1500 miles.
Broken ring, other thoughts?
Gordo
Then large puff of blue smoke on start after sitting for a few hours.
Ran just fine and didn't smoke after that.
A couple thousand miles/months ago it puffed a little blue smoke on startup several times, hot or cold.
98k miles, 1 qt/1500 miles.
Broken ring, other thoughts?
Gordo
08-11-2016, 08:02 AM
#2
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Overfilling oil?
08-11-2016, 09:45 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
08-11-2016, 12:42 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
It's pretty common to have some smoke on first start up, if the motor was not warm when it was shutdown previously or it has sat for awhile...
In a vertical (vs our flat) engine any oil that gets into the cylinder will work it's way past the rings and drain back to the pan... In our case it just puddles on the cylinder wall until you start it up and burn it off.
If it's smoking after a minute or so, the that's another problem.
In a vertical (vs our flat) engine any oil that gets into the cylinder will work it's way past the rings and drain back to the pan... In our case it just puddles on the cylinder wall until you start it up and burn it off.
If it's smoking after a minute or so, the that's another problem.
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08-11-2016, 01:06 PM
#8
It's pretty common to have some smoke on first start up, if the motor was not warm when it was shutdown previously or it has sat for awhile...
In a vertical (vs our flat) engine any oil that gets into the cylinder will work it's way past the rings and drain back to the pan... In our case it just puddles on the cylinder wall until you start it up and burn it off.
If it's smoking after a minute or so, the that's another problem.
In a vertical (vs our flat) engine any oil that gets into the cylinder will work it's way past the rings and drain back to the pan... In our case it just puddles on the cylinder wall until you start it up and burn it off.
If it's smoking after a minute or so, the that's another problem.
Got into 10 minutes of stop and go traffic after 50 mile freeway drive when
engine developed ping and blue smoke during ping, could see it in rear view mirrors.
Car has run fine for the 75 miles since that event yesterday.....
08-11-2016, 01:40 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
That almost sounds like a PCV kind of problem... liquid oil accumulating and dropping into the intake..... just a hunch, and I don't have a good grasp on how that system works in our cars.
08-11-2016, 02:11 PM
#10
Car ran fine this AM, no smoke, very responsive.....will continue to monitor for recurrence.
08-11-2016, 03:00 PM
#11
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Car can seem to run fine with broken belt. If you have such a concern unplug the primary distributor, the one where its base is attached to the engine and try to start the car on the secondary only. If it runs at all it is not he belt. While you are at it do the same for the primary and then you will know for sure that both are working fine.
08-11-2016, 05:35 PM
#12
Car can seem to run fine with broken belt. If you have such a concern unplug the primary distributor, the one where its base is attached to the engine and try to start the car on the secondary only. If it runs at all it is not he belt. While you are at it do the same for the primary and then you will know for sure that both are working fine.
Thanks for the tip.
Gordo
08-11-2016, 05:46 PM
#13
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
This is a good thing as removing the distributor and having its belt replaced is a pain in the butt. Any time one has running issues the belt should be tested and the DME relay switched out.
08-11-2016, 06:01 PM
#14
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
How many total quarts do you put in at an oil change? If one is putting in more than 10 quarts when you replace both filters one is probably over filling. Some fill with a hot engine running to the mid point on the dip stick. I fill with 8 quarts and then fill a hot engine in small increments until the dash gauge floats at about half way. Both of these methods seem to avoid over filling. These cars, unlike a Honda Civic, have a lot of oil in reserve so having things absolutely topped off is not needed and may obscure over filling. My car is coming up on 100K miles and from the position on the gauge when warm uses no oil. This is why I suggested over filling as a potential issue. If your car is used as a street driver and an occasional auto-cross there is no reason to be concerned about internal issues unless you experience gross operating condition issues. Even then symptoms such as excessive oil usage or even a smog system code should not lead one to an engine rebuild unless all other conceivable issues are investigated and the need is verified by multiple parties using multiple methods. Even leak down tests are suspect as on these Rennlist pages are documented highly variable outcomes that do not correlate with operating conditions and therefore have suspect diagnostic value.
Andy
Hope this helps
Andy
Hope this helps
08-11-2016, 06:39 PM
#15
How many total quarts do you put in at an oil change? If one is putting in more than 10 quarts when you replace both filters one is probably over filling. Some fill with a hot engine running to the mid point on the dip stick. I fill with 8 quarts and then fill a hot engine in small increments until the dash gauge floats at about half way. Both of these methods seem to avoid over filling. These cars, unlike a Honda Civic, have a lot of oil in reserve so having things absolutely topped off is not needed and may obscure over filling. My car is coming up on 100K miles and from the position on the gauge when warm uses no oil. This is why I suggested over filling as a potential issue. If your car is used as a street driver and an occasional auto-cross there is no reason to be concerned about internal issues unless you experience gross operating condition issues. Even then symptoms such as excessive oil usage or even a smog system code should not lead one to an engine rebuild unless all other conceivable issues are investigated and the need is verified by multiple parties using multiple methods. Even leak down tests are suspect as on these Rennlist pages are documented highly variable outcomes that do not correlate with operating conditions and therefore have suspect diagnostic value.
Andy
Hope this helps
Andy
Hope this helps
I checked dipstick and added half a quart about 800 miles ago.
Barely activity on the gauge when hot, usual for my car since new.
Oil temp was just right yesterday on 50 mile cruise....could see the temp cycle a bit when oil cooler did its thing.
When I slowed for stop and go traffic it began the ping and smog thing.
Later, when I reversed course and drove 50 miles back and then into stop and go, no problem.
I'll do a hot run this afternoon and check the dipstick.....