YART (yet another re-gear thread)
#16
What I did years ago on my /20 box was swap out 3, 4, and 5 for /31 gears. You get 90 percent of the benefit with zero hassle and only a small dent in your wallet. IMHO the differences between 2nd gear ratios aren't enough to warrant the change, even if you can remove it from the mainshaft. With the lower 3rd, the 2nd-3rd transition is perfect. And I like the stock 6th on the highway. Have never had a regret about this setup.
#17
Rennlist Member
"And I like the stock 6th for the highway. ....."
"And I like the stock 6th for the highway. Have never had a regret about this setup."
Very few track will allow you to get into 6th gear. The stock 6th is certainly something to consider. At times I have regretted having a 0.912 6th...other times no, bivalent guy that I am.
My present 1.094 5th gear will get me to about 138 mph at 6800 RPM, maybe 138 is fast enough?
Very few track will allow you to get into 6th gear. The stock 6th is certainly something to consider. At times I have regretted having a 0.912 6th...other times no, bivalent guy that I am.
My present 1.094 5th gear will get me to about 138 mph at 6800 RPM, maybe 138 is fast enough?
#18
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Central California
Posts: 3,484
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
11 Posts
A new gearbox for your 993 is the responsible thing to do. It is much, much cheaper than buying an F355 anyways. You don't really have to buy a whole new Italian car just to get some desired gear ratios ----- just buy the gearbox itself.
There! A new gearbox is the cheap option. :-) :-) :-)
There! A new gearbox is the cheap option. :-) :-) :-)
#19
Banned
My Stock G50 can enter 6th at Mosport FYI.
The Track is now called CTMP.
Love Old School Tracks!
But I hate waiting for elevators - my excuse / justification for a Reveal
: > }
The Track is now called CTMP.
Love Old School Tracks!
But I hate waiting for elevators - my excuse / justification for a Reveal
: > }
#20
Pro
Thread Starter
What I did years ago on my /20 box was swap out 3, 4, and 5 for /31 gears. You get 90 percent of the benefit with zero hassle and only a small dent in your wallet. IMHO the differences between 2nd gear ratios aren't enough to warrant the change, even if you can remove it from the mainshaft. With the lower 3rd, the 2nd-3rd transition is perfect. And I like the stock 6th on the highway. Have never had a regret about this setup.
Thanks for the info, that sounds like a possible option to me.
Based on my research 4th (1 : 1.24), and 5th (1 : 1.02) are the same ratios for the /21 and the /31 boxes 3rd is (1 : 1.56) for the /21 box and (1 : 1.52) for the /31 box. Are the /31 gears constructed differently than the /21 gears?
When you say "zero hassle" do you mean the gear inner diameters, synchro teeth and gear widths are the same as the /20 gears? That would eliminate the need for inner races and spacers. Also, would you mind sharing where you sourced the gears and, if possible the part numbers (you can reply by PM if you'd like although I hope this thread will benefit others in the future). As much as I like Sunset I realize that especially for non-US parts it is more "challenging" for the parts counter folks to find the parts.
Best
/alex
#21
Pro
Thread Starter
Update
Update
after more research I have narrowed my choices down to pretty much the 2 options below, which suit my (non-track) driving style, where I tend to upshift in 2nd and 3rd between 5,200 and 5,800.
1st, 2nd stay stock G50/20, chiefly for cost reasons, although based on my research 2nd is loose on my box and could be replaced. I am strongly leaning toward keeping 6th stock as well for cost reasons.
Option 1 - bring 3rd and 4th to their proper place for backroads driving and sacrifice a bit around that goal in terms of spacing of 5th and 6th
Option 2 - bring 3rd and 4th to a good place but amortize the big step from 5th to 6th a bit across the range
I am always open to other suggestions.
I will likely opt for new steel (over brass) synchros for 3rd and 4th.
Much of the above has been arrived at with help from Matt Monson at Guard who has been superbly helpful.
Now, where to find an MWF?
Thanks
/alex
after more research I have narrowed my choices down to pretty much the 2 options below, which suit my (non-track) driving style, where I tend to upshift in 2nd and 3rd between 5,200 and 5,800.
1st, 2nd stay stock G50/20, chiefly for cost reasons, although based on my research 2nd is loose on my box and could be replaced. I am strongly leaning toward keeping 6th stock as well for cost reasons.
Option 1 - bring 3rd and 4th to their proper place for backroads driving and sacrifice a bit around that goal in terms of spacing of 5th and 6th
- 1st gear: 11 : 42 (= 1 : 3.818) <-- stock G50/20
- 2nd gear: 21 : 43 (= 1 : 2.048) <-- stock G50/20
- 3rd gear: 19 : 30 (= 1 : 1.579)
- 4th gear: 22 : 27 (= 1 : 1.227)
- 5th gear: 25 : 25 (= 1 : 1.000)
- 6th gear: 40 : 31 (= 1 : 0.775) <-- stock G50/20
- 3rd is brought reasonably close to 2nd
- 4th is brought reasonably close to 3rd
- the spacing between 5th and 6th remains wide
Option 2 - bring 3rd and 4th to a good place but amortize the big step from 5th to 6th a bit across the range
- 1st gear: 11 : 42 (= 1 : 3.818) <-- stock G50/20
- 2nd gear: 21 : 43 (= 1 : 2.048) <-- stock G50/20
- 3rd gear: 20 : 31 (= 1 : 1.550)
- 4th gear: 25 : 30 (= 1 : 1.200)
- 5th gear: 34 : 33 (= 1 : 0.971)
- 6th gear: 40 : 31 (= 1 : 0.775) <-- stock G50/20
I am always open to other suggestions.
I will likely opt for new steel (over brass) synchros for 3rd and 4th.
Much of the above has been arrived at with help from Matt Monson at Guard who has been superbly helpful.
Now, where to find an MWF?
Thanks
/alex
Last edited by ard; 09-11-2016 at 12:51 PM. Reason: fix typos, formatting