Rear Drop Link Mount
#1
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Rear Drop Link Mount
I am testing a new two-piece rear drop link mount that will fit just about all threaded damper bodies.
I wanted to throw this out there to gauge interest since these are not easy to machine nor will they be really inexpensive. Preliminarily I could offer these in the $280/pair range.
There is a slight interference fit local to the threads such that they are clamping onto the damper tube once the two fasteners are tightened. This will eliminate the need for multiple lock rings to keep them clocked in place. Also, one would not need to remove the shock and subsequently disrupt the rear toe settings to change or adust the height of the rear anti roll bar mount height.
For those who dont have adjustable drop links, I have a slotted hole at the drop link mount area to allow any bar preload to be zeroed quite easily.
If one already has suspension on the car and its aligned, the old cast mount can be cut off provided its done so carefully with a Dremel type of tool.
Tell me what you think?
I wanted to throw this out there to gauge interest since these are not easy to machine nor will they be really inexpensive. Preliminarily I could offer these in the $280/pair range.
There is a slight interference fit local to the threads such that they are clamping onto the damper tube once the two fasteners are tightened. This will eliminate the need for multiple lock rings to keep them clocked in place. Also, one would not need to remove the shock and subsequently disrupt the rear toe settings to change or adust the height of the rear anti roll bar mount height.
For those who dont have adjustable drop links, I have a slotted hole at the drop link mount area to allow any bar preload to be zeroed quite easily.
If one already has suspension on the car and its aligned, the old cast mount can be cut off provided its done so carefully with a Dremel type of tool.
Tell me what you think?
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that looks very nice, I haven't had problems recently so not interested at present. Will these fit other socks or just Bilsteins. I believe VB also has something similar (never seen pics though).
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Yes, Devek (circa VB being there) was modifying the standard cast ARB link mounts by drilling a hole through it and installing a bolt through the thing to clamp it down. I recall there were reports of them failing local to where the hole was drilled. I dont know anything more than that honestly.
The thing I dont care for in modifying the existing cast piece is simply the material its made from -- crappy cast who knows what
The key to get this to work as a product would be to take manufacturing cost out of it. I will be working with the machinist in efforts to do just that.
The thing I dont care for in modifying the existing cast piece is simply the material its made from -- crappy cast who knows what
The key to get this to work as a product would be to take manufacturing cost out of it. I will be working with the machinist in efforts to do just that.
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Hi Doug, there is further discussion on the 993 NA forum -- a few others mentioned concern about the slot, so we can just place a hole there instead.
The factory supplied mount (on the short life Monroe/Boge) has a slot to mount the drop link. However, the slot is there to allow the droplink stud to articulate into position upon assembly. ....And honestly I have had a few of those come loose on me as well.
I am working with my machinist now on ways to get some cost out of these things. Just too many setups!!
The factory supplied mount (on the short life Monroe/Boge) has a slot to mount the drop link. However, the slot is there to allow the droplink stud to articulate into position upon assembly. ....And honestly I have had a few of those come loose on me as well.
I am working with my machinist now on ways to get some cost out of these things. Just too many setups!!
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In efforts to get cost out of these mounts as well as beating on the outfit that machines these mounts for me (and promising to send more work his way), he has extended a better deal to me, therefore to any of you who are interested. I'll pass this along, no sweat.
$200.00 / car set would be group buy pricing without the need for a group buy.
$200.00 / car set would be group buy pricing without the need for a group buy.
#7
This is a great idea.
Have you run the numbers from a design standpoint? All the pocketing and weight savings looks maybe a little aggressive to me. On the other hand it is probably 6061 and so much stronger than the cast parts.
Moton made a bunch of similar parts and they all failed at a sharp inside corner.
I will take a set if you are certain it meets the strength/fatigue requirements.
Have you run the numbers from a design standpoint? All the pocketing and weight savings looks maybe a little aggressive to me. On the other hand it is probably 6061 and so much stronger than the cast parts.
Moton made a bunch of similar parts and they all failed at a sharp inside corner.
I will take a set if you are certain it meets the strength/fatigue requirements.
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I'm glad this came up again as this could be the solution to half my problem.
I went to adjust my sway bars last night and found out there is quite a bit of preload in the bars. I know there wasn't any when I installed the suspension so I have to assume it is the result of the corner balance or alignment.
Maybe the first question I should ask is: how bad is preload? My rear bar was off by a 1/4 inch. Enough that I had to jack up one side of the car to get the bolt back in.
Greg H.
I went to adjust my sway bars last night and found out there is quite a bit of preload in the bars. I know there wasn't any when I installed the suspension so I have to assume it is the result of the corner balance or alignment.
Maybe the first question I should ask is: how bad is preload? My rear bar was off by a 1/4 inch. Enough that I had to jack up one side of the car to get the bolt back in.
Greg H.
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