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993GT2EVO dyno report number two

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Old 04-08-2008, 05:05 PM
  #151  
Geoffrey
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As a comparison, we just had a 964 resprayed here in the US for $11.2k without any new parts or major bodywork required. I think you need to identify all of the work that was done before making an assessment of whether or not it was overpriced. If the car required panel replacement which may only have been determined after the car was stripped, then the cost can increase at an alarming rate. I douvt that 23k gbp was just for a respray. One of the 964 Cups we have worked on has had significant rollover damage and was only discovered when being repaired for another accident. These performance oriented car can live a harsh life and damage can sometimes be hidden well.
Old 04-09-2008, 09:03 AM
  #152  
andy tims
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OK the re-spray tale may be a bit O/T, but I got it from the horses’ mouth & a few points need correcting. Circa £4.5k had already been spent at 9M on paintwork before the current owner bought it.
The actual quote to FINISH the job (remember the previous expenditure) was £7,750 - You'd think by then there could have been few remaining surprises. The only additional work (the customer should have expected to pay for) was a new boot floor. However, the car did have to be re-painted (apparently at the paint providers cost ) because the 2-pack paint had separated. The owner had been asking for the final bill for several days in the week before he was due to collect the car on the Monday. At 5:30pm on the Friday night the £23k bill was emailed. Why the owner agreed to pay £16k is his own business, but it's beyond me.
How many of us would expect our customers to stomach even a 100% price escalation after quoting for a job?

Last edited by andy tims; 04-09-2008 at 10:06 AM.
Old 04-12-2008, 02:56 PM
  #153  
datax
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Originally Posted by graeme36s
I have no problem at all with the thread evolving, prey continue. It makes for very interesting reading. A mate of mine came down from Doncaster last night was telling me that 9M quoted £6000 to repaint a 964RS. The chap was told that there was some additional work required whilst the bodywork was progressing. The invoice ended up at £23,000 and settled at £16,000
A couple of piccies to make you smile, well they make me smile anyway

Your car looks amazing!! That's all I know. Didn't read the 10 page thread.
Old 04-12-2008, 07:40 PM
  #154  
Felix
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Graeme, looking at those photos again the rear tyre looks like it's about to roll off the rim. What pressures were you running?
Old 04-13-2008, 03:29 AM
  #155  
graeme36s
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I was aiming for about 30psi hot, started them at 22psi nearside, 24psi offside, it wasn't a bad guess.
Old 04-13-2008, 08:17 AM
  #156  
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Graeme, I see what Phelix is getting at. Your tyres look like they are too 'in' compared to the rims. Optical illusion or unsafe situation?
Old 04-13-2008, 09:49 AM
  #157  
Felix
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Originally Posted by graeme36s
I was aiming for about 30psi hot, started them at 22psi nearside, 24psi offside, it wasn't a bad guess.
Curious what other comments are but I would have thought starting that low runs the risk of tire damage until the pressure reaches the target. Wouldn't it be better to start nearer the target pressure and then bleed air out as they heat up? And 30 psi seems low to me; I would have said 34-36 hot...
Old 04-13-2008, 07:59 PM
  #158  
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Felix,

Sometimes (well in my case) you have to start low (depepnding on track temp I start my MPSC about the same range) because you cant come in...

30PSI hot is where I personaly found them to be the fastest...

As far as tyre damage - 1 it is a track so SHOULD be clear of debris and 2 - you would be surprised how fast you can heat a tyre near to OT.

BTW a tip for getting your tyres up to temp - dont swerve side to side - you generate much more temp using a stop / start method - and the side benefit is that you can heat your brakes up too!

Simon.
Old 06-23-2008, 08:41 PM
  #159  
sicoyne
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Originally Posted by andy tims
OK the re-spray tale may be a bit O/T, but I got it from the horses’ mouth & a few points need correcting. Circa £4.5k had already been spent at 9M on paintwork before the current owner bought it.
The actual quote to FINISH the job (remember the previous expenditure) was £7,750 - You'd think by then there could have been few remaining surprises. The only additional work (the customer should have expected to pay for) was a new boot floor. However, the car did have to be re-painted (apparently at the paint providers cost ) because the 2-pack paint had separated. The owner had been asking for the final bill for several days in the week before he was due to collect the car on the Monday. At 5:30pm on the Friday night the £23k bill was emailed. Why the owner agreed to pay £16k is his own business, but it's beyond me.
How many of us would expect our customers to stomach even a 100% price escalation after quoting for a job?
Interesting post but just to correct the above. I owned the Maritime Blue Clubsport before Mr Whittle and had the bodywork mentioned above carried out. The amount spent was actually £2,700 the rest of the bill consisted of other work and a MOTEC ECU being fitted etc which brought the total bill to £7.5k.

As for the work carried out after I sold the car I know the work and stage by stage photo's have been viewed by an Insurance Assessor and his view was that the amount paid was extremely good value for money and the original invoice was strong but not too unrealistic.

I can only comment on my own dealings with 9M and can say I have never had any issue with their work and I had LOTS done on the car. I took the car back for bits and bobs of work, some done Free of Charge and know I Mr Whittle is very happy with the car and has good experience of using them too.
Old 06-23-2008, 09:38 PM
  #160  
JamesE
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Lucky you is all I can be arsed to say. No offence intended towards yourself.
Old 06-24-2008, 04:28 AM
  #161  
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Still not one single satisfied forced induction customer, and no comeback from Colin with regards to any of my or James' accusations. Speaks for itself really
Old 06-26-2008, 06:41 PM
  #162  
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isn't 9m a sponsor on this board?
Old 07-01-2008, 07:37 AM
  #163  
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I was reading the Porsche Post the other day, I'm a few months behind reading them... Anyway, some one went on a dyno day with other cars and his car was significantly down on power to what he had been told it was by his tuner. Yes, he too was a 9M customer and of the NA variety...
Old 12-26-2008, 07:16 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by graeme36s
I've yet to run the 60-130 with or without a data logger to see what the numbers are on the GT2. That said I feel the performance is inconsistent. If you've had the opportunity to nail it for a bit it wakes up and goes very well, other times it feels half asleep. Perhaps a slight exageration but there is a difference. If anyone could shed some light on this I would very much appreciate it. Perhaps because the boost is mechanically controlled and she does not get used regularly it takes a little while to get itself sorted out ?.
Took this from the 60-130 thread as we don't need to clog that up any more than it is
I think if you read back through this thread I would guess that your programming is too aggressive to give you your chassis dyno 490hp when the limit of your K24s is about 460-470hp so this will be the root of your problem. Current low temperatures in the UK will really show up these shortcomings since your car was "mapped" on a chassis dyno in warmer temps - the cold temps will mess up the air mass numbers and cause the sort of problems you are getting. On some cars mapped this way the engine will actually cut out as too much mass is ingested, seems yours is not that bad..... Some data logged runs 60-130 etc will tell us a lot ?
Old 12-26-2008, 08:26 AM
  #165  
JBL930
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Toby, Fearnsport don't map the cars on a dyno, I asked Matt how they do this and he didn't really give me an answer apart from that they have a guy who programs a chip, they take the car out on the road and and look at the boost, fuel and ignition timing. If everything looks good then that's it, if something needs adjusting the guy adjusts the map and they go out and have another look.

I thought the whole point was to hold the engine at a certain rpm point and adjust everything to get maximum torque, then move on to the next rpm point, obviously keeping the boost etc within the capabilities of your build, that's my very crude understanding, there is obviously a lot more too it. How Fearnsport manage to do this without a dyno is a mystery to me.

My car is behaving like you discribe in cold weather, i only see the boost go to about 1.1bar when it's really cold but it does cut out, it's like an overboost protection, i can't tell if it's cutting boost or ignition but it isn't happy. When it's a little warmer it runs great but this colder weather is making it play up


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