TheMitch

2003 986 Boxster S, manual 6 speed 37,000 miles, turns over but won't start after driving 20 minutes and parking the car. Outside air temp 71-72F or 21-22C Like my ex, she left me stranded. Any help with the car is greatly appreciated.

OK I may have left out a key bit of information. About a month ago the red led on my key began to blink even when I wasn't pressing it. I thought it meant I needed a new battery so I put in a new Duracell CR 2032 battery. The light would activate when I pushed the button with the new battery but the remote would no longer work. I went on youtube, read the owners manual and followed the procedures to re-sync the key but to no avail. OK so I just locked and unlocked the the car with the key. Then after driving it for about 20 minutes and locking the door, I unlocked the door, the engine would turn over, but would not start. I had the car towed to my home as I live about 125 miles from the closest Porsche repair facility.




Today I tried to raise the top for the first time since the car wouldn't start, to get into the engine compartment. Battery is fully charged, Hand brake pulled up, ignition switch on and nothing happened when I pushed the convertible top button. I even put my feet on the brake and clutch to to make sure. Nothing.




Did I somehow disable the system? Can I fix this myself?

cds72911

Crank position sensor.

808Bill

Bad gas?

De Jeeper

U need air, fuel and spark for a motor to run. Just internet guess without a little of diagnostic. U need to make sure the air filter is clear, that takes care of air. U need to test fuel pressure when cold and hot. Thats the fuel. Both kind easy and cheap. Next is spark thats the hard and expensive one. It could be ignition related, plugs, coils or computer. Get a scanner, a duremetric would be better, and see if u have any codes.

My educated guess from the vary limited info is gonna be fuel pump is weak and dieing when hot.

TheMitch

Would an OBD scanner indicate if it this issue is a crank position sensor, clutch lockout switch or MAF? I had fresh 92 Octane non ethanol fuel in the tank.

Thanks.

Ahsai

Does the tach needle bounce a bit (like 1/8") or so when you crank?

Ahsai

Not the clutch lock out switch for sure since the starter still cranks. If you suspect the MAF, you can disconnect it and crank. Also do a e-gas recalibration first. Put the key in the last position before crank and leave it there for 60s. Then turn key off for 10s. Foot off the gas pedal the whole time.

Also check fuses c1-c4 and e1.

Prelude Guy

How long after the drive will it eventually start?

Easy things to try:
-Push the gas pedal to the floor, then crank the engine. Be prepared to let off the gas pedal if it starts.
-Make sure your battery ground wire is clean and secured at the chassis and at the battery.
-Unplug your MAFS, then try to start.
-Check for vacuum leaks

Other than that, I've had a bad crank sensor and coolant temp sensor cause starting issues.

Imo000

Spray some starter fluid into the throttle body and see if it fired up.

TheMitch

OK I may have left out a key bit of information. About a month ago the red led on my key began to blink even when I wasn't pressing it. I thought it meant I needed a new battery so I put in a new Duracell CR 2032 battery. The light would activate when I pushed the button with the new battery but the remote would no longer work. I went on youtube, read the owners manual and followed the procedures to re-sync the key but to no avail. OK so I just locked and unlocked the the car with the key. Then after driving it for about 20 minutes and locking the door, I unlocked the door, the engine would turn over, but would not start. I had the car towed to my home as I live about 125 miles from the closest Porsche repair facility.

Today I tried to raise the top for the first time since the car wouldn't start, to get into the engine compartment. Battery is fully charged, Hand brake pulled up, ignition switch on and nothing happened when I pushed the convertible top button. I even put my feet on the brake and clutch to to make sure. Nothing.

Did I somehow disable the system? Can I fix this myself?

NuttyProfessor

Ok, first, let's rule out if the car is in immobilized state. Do you have another working keyfob that is mated to this car and if you do, then try it? The reason I ask is because the RFID "pill" in your transponder could be malfunctioning. If you don't have another working keyfob, you may need to plan for a tow to the dealership.

TheMitch

Thank you for your response.

Unfortunately I do not have another key fob with the RFID "pill" I do, however have a key without the RFID "pill" or remote function. I tried that other key and get the same results.

NuttyProfessor

Mitch, I think this may very well be the source of the problem. I've experience this kind of problem before of some of my other cars.

For example, you have keys, but the remote portion doesn't work. You can unlock the door using the key hole on the driver side, but once you put the key into the ignition, the car doesn't recognize the RFID and the car will not start properly. In the past, traditional metal cut key is all we needed, right? But not with modern cars that have security features and immobilizers to help prevent the chance of your car being stolen.

Here's my theory - the RFID "pill" inside your lone keyfob is probably malfunctioning. You can access the car (because it was never remotely armed) and attempt to crank the car, but the ECU refuses to start the car because the ECU doesn't recognize or "see" the RFID code. Basically, the way I understand it, the keyfob's RFID pill has an encrypted code that "handshakes" with the ECU. If it functions properly, the key is recognized by the ECU and gives the green light for proper ignition. I could be mistaken. In some situations, when the remote lock/unlock function is not working, you can still start the car if the RFID is functioning properly. You can still access the car using the metal key, but you MUST put the key in the ignition within a short time frame (20-30 secs) or else the car alarm will go off. However, in your case, you didn't lock and arm the car, correct?

Regardless, you need to get the car and remotes to a dealership for reprogramming. I'm not sure if there is a work around. I recently had a problem where my remote wasn't recognized by the car. In other words, nothing worked - not the hood release nor lock or unlocking the car. It was BLIND to the car. I freaked out because I just paid Porsche $400 for that brand new keyfob remote. I took a deep breath and got into the car, put the key in the ignition, switched to first position which examines the oil level, started the car, and then turned it off again. Walked outside and tried the remote. Bingo... it worked again. In my opinion, it needed to be re-recognized by the car.

I hate to say it, but you may need to tow the car to Porsche and have them reprogram new keys. I always recommend having a backup set programmed to prevent cases like what you're going through. Good luck!

DBJoe996

Look up the fuse diagram for your 986 Boxster. On a 996 fuse panel C3 and E1 provide power to the immobilizer circuits and alarm system. Could it be as simple as a blown fuse?

NuttyProfessor

^^Good advice right there!