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Low oil pressure on rebuild

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Old 10-06-2019, 09:03 PM
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turkis_tii
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Default Low oil pressure on rebuild

I have a 2000 996 with 107K miles. Full rebuild with oversized LNE cylinders and pistons, F6I pinned IMS and IMS Solution, rebuilt heads, new main bearings, coated rod bearings, etc. done by local experienced Indy. Running BR30 oil.

The problem: Oil pressure is 5 bar at 3-4K rpm and 3-4 bar at idle when cold. I picked up car with the fresh engine on a hot day—94-degrees outside— water temp around 200F, oil pressure at 3-4K rpm is 4 bar but it dropped to less than 1 bar at idle and engine died. Several times. Would not stay lit unless maintained above idle. Engine builder said it showed no fault codes. Two days later, 75F day, idle o.p. with hot engine was about 0.8 bar and idle is smooth. So, engine builder says it’s normal function, let the ECU relearn, etc. Is the issue running a 30 weight oil or is it more likely due to improper build such as main bearing clearances.
Old 10-06-2019, 09:38 PM
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Porschetech3
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30wt oil...
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:42 PM
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wildbilly32
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Isn't BR30 a 5w-30 break in oil?

Copied from Driven website:
Good for full power pulls on the dyno, one night of racing or up to 400 miles on the street.
How many miles has it been driven with this oil?
Old 10-06-2019, 09:57 PM
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turkis_tii
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Less than 100 IMHO. Switch to Driven BR40 or Brad Penn Breaking 40wt.?
Old 10-07-2019, 04:01 PM
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turkis_tii
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Default Still need help!

Flat Six or LNE recommend 30 wt oil for break in, so low op is normal function. Engine builder indicates could be too-low idle, not a low pressure issue, that causes stall. This is e-throttle, so would need new throttle body or ? Comments?
Old 10-07-2019, 04:14 PM
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rogazilla
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Turn the key on but not start the engine while keeping your feet off the pedals. Wait about 60 seconds and you should hear the e-throttle re-calibrate itself.
Old 10-17-2019, 12:32 PM
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Charles Navarro
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Originally Posted by turkis_tii
Flat Six or LNE recommend 30 wt oil for break in, so low op is normal function. Engine builder indicates could be too-low idle, not a low pressure issue, that causes stall. This is e-throttle, so would need new throttle body or ? Comments?
We recommend BR40 for break-in. Many years ago, there was no 40 wt available, so we had to use a 30 wt, but that hasn't been the case for a very long time.
Old 10-17-2019, 12:34 PM
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Charles Navarro
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Originally Posted by turkis_tii
I have a 2000 996 with 107K miles. Full rebuild with oversized LNE cylinders and pistons, F6I pinned IMS and IMS Solution, rebuilt heads, new main bearings, coated rod bearings, etc. done by local experienced Indy. Running BR30 oil.

The problem: Oil pressure is 5 bar at 3-4K rpm and 3-4 bar at idle when cold. I picked up car with the fresh engine on a hot day—94-degrees outside— water temp around 200F, oil pressure at 3-4K rpm is 4 bar but it dropped to less than 1 bar at idle and engine died. Several times. Would not stay lit unless maintained above idle. Engine builder said it showed no fault codes. Two days later, 75F day, idle o.p. with hot engine was about 0.8 bar and idle is smooth. So, engine builder says it’s normal function, let the ECU relearn, etc. Is the issue running a 30 weight oil or is it more likely due to improper build such as main bearing clearances.
May need to do a vehicle handover and then turn all the accessories and lights on to increase the load on the alternator, which will force the DME to adjust the idle speed.

The throttle re-learn as instructed by another poster is a good idea.
Old 10-18-2019, 01:10 PM
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relinuca
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Default My 2cents

My experiences were similar to those of the initial posting...96K miles, #6 cylinder "holed", fully rebuilt engine installed...checking account emptied.

With the "new" engine, oil pressure is steady 2-3 bars once fully warmed and cruising at 50-60 mph....and absolutely no oil leaks (really) !!

Anything less than 2-3 bars on a recently rebuilt and fully warmed engine would be deeply suspect to me.

relinuca
Old 10-18-2019, 01:16 PM
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Byprodriver
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996 oil pressure sending units are not very reliable in my experience, if you don't like what you see try buying a new one.
Old 10-18-2019, 01:19 PM
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Charles Navarro
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Originally Posted by relinuca
My experiences were similar to those of the initial posting...96K miles, #6 cylinder "holed", fully rebuilt engine installed...checking account emptied.

With the "new" engine, oil pressure is steady 2-3 bars once fully warmed and cruising at 50-60 mph....and absolutely no oil leaks (really) !!

Anything less than 2-3 bars on a recently rebuilt and fully warmed engine would be deeply suspect to me.

relinuca
Ditto. Whenever I've seen low oil pressure at idle warmed up, it's typically an oil squirter was left out accidentally.
Old 10-18-2019, 06:04 PM
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Mike Murphy
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My engine idles at 675, but bumps to 800 or 850 with the AC button depressed. And if the engine builder wants 30-weight, you might have to listen. But then switch to 40 when you can.

Its possible the rebuilt engine just has slightly larger tolerances, resulting is a bit less pressure.

Last edited by Mike Murphy; 10-18-2019 at 06:43 PM.
Old 10-19-2019, 03:14 AM
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pdxmotorhead
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Originally Posted by Charles Navarro
Ditto. Whenever I've seen low oil pressure at idle warmed up, it's typically an oil squirter was left out accidentally.
SO gotta ask,, can they be put in without splitting the case?? Just curious...
Old 10-19-2019, 05:14 AM
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AnthonyGS
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Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead
SO gotta ask,, can they be put in without splitting the case?? Just curious...
Ain’t no way. These are literally the first parts installed during assembly.
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Old 10-19-2019, 10:17 AM
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FWIW, agree with Mike in post #12. On hot weather days with ac off I occasionally get the low op light. With ac on idle is higher and no light.


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