The 133,333 mile engine rebuild thread
The following 4 users liked this post by Scott at Team Harco:
10-10-2020, 08:46 PM
#785
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Nice!
Still got the Yoke?
Still got the Yoke?
The following users liked this post:
808Bill (10-12-2020)
10-11-2020, 02:37 PM
#787
Racer
10-11-2020, 05:42 PM
#788
RL Community Team
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My M96 is mounted on a Harbor Freight engine stand.
I may pick up a yoke soon.
without one you can’t easily uninstall/install IMSB
10-12-2020, 09:40 AM
#789
Just a car guy
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If you decide to send your block halves to LN - I still have the box with foam inserts specifically for shipping. It carries a $100 core charge. It would probably cost nearly that to send it back to get the core refund. The point being, I would let it go for cheap to anyone that wants to come and get it. Since you are in Michigan, it might be something you could use and might not involve a huge expense to get it.
10-12-2020, 09:36 PM
#790
Racer
As Bruce mentions, it is nice to have. You have complete access to the the back of the engine - think IMSB, RMS, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. You don't have to drop the engine off the stand to get at this area.
If you decide to send your block halves to LN - I still have the box with foam inserts specifically for shipping. It carries a $100 core charge. It would probably cost nearly that to send it back to get the core refund. The point being, I would let it go for cheap to anyone that wants to come and get it. Since you are in Michigan, it might be something you could use and might not involve a huge expense to get it.
If you decide to send your block halves to LN - I still have the box with foam inserts specifically for shipping. It carries a $100 core charge. It would probably cost nearly that to send it back to get the core refund. The point being, I would let it go for cheap to anyone that wants to come and get it. Since you are in Michigan, it might be something you could use and might not involve a huge expense to get it.
10-13-2020, 12:10 PM
#791
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Once I get the engine out and determine if it is just a cracked head or if it is the cylinders I will let you know. May do the complete overall anyway once I have it apart. I have a good 3.4 that I am going to swap into the chassis when I get the engine out but I would eventually like to put the original engine back in. Did you happen to keep the box you sent the heads out in as well?
10-15-2020, 07:20 PM
#792
Racer
I didn't read the whole thread agsin and don't recall if you addressed these questions. If you did, i appologize.
Did you have to do any tuning by going to 3.8 or are you using the stock tune. Is it possible to go to 4.0 on a 3.4? Just curious why you chose 3.8.
10-16-2020, 09:18 AM
#793
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No tuning. I followed the recommended start-up and break-in procedure as suggested for RND engines. The ECU seems to have adapted to the displacement increase. I selected 3.8 because that is what LN suggested. If you want to go to 4.0 you may want to bring that up with them.
10-16-2020, 11:14 AM
#794
Rennlist Member
No tuning. I followed the recommended start-up and break-in procedure as suggested for RND engines. The ECU seems to have adapted to the displacement increase. I selected 3.8 because that is what LN suggested. If you want to go to 4.0 you may want to bring that up with them.
The ECU should be able to adjust as long as the sensors are operating properly and you don't have any issues like bad injectors or vacuum leaks. Smoke testing the engine is a must as are new injectors. We also recommend replacing all the sensors that can affect tune and adaptation.
However, ECU tuning can optimize the engine and squeeze out a few more horsepower, but it adds significant cost as you'll need a custom tune and extensive dyno time to ensure the tune is correct. Using an off the shelf tune not designed for the combo would be very bad.