Calibrating Convertible top
03-19-2024, 12:20 PM
#46
Three Wheelin'
I wouldn't mess with the manual operation drive motor "screw" unless you truly understand what's wrong. Something is preventing the clamshell from fully closing. Forcing it will only make it worse. Keep looking.
The 3 latches that secure the clamshell are driven by the same motor/rack&pinon/bowden cable assembly that move the clamshell. During the last bit of travel during closing, the left and right sliders engage the secondary slider. That slider moves an arm that secures the latches on the left or right side.
The rear center latch is driven by an small bowden cable that is attached directly to the rack&pinon drive. It moves during the last bit of travel.
The way the motor knows how many revolutions to turn to fully secure all of this is via a potentiometer attached to the motor drive shaft. This is one of the key settings in "convertible top calibration". Perhaps calibration is out of sync? Although there should be no reason for it to get "out of sync" unless something breaks.
The 3 latches that secure the clamshell are driven by the same motor/rack&pinon/bowden cable assembly that move the clamshell. During the last bit of travel during closing, the left and right sliders engage the secondary slider. That slider moves an arm that secures the latches on the left or right side.
The rear center latch is driven by an small bowden cable that is attached directly to the rack&pinon drive. It moves during the last bit of travel.
The way the motor knows how many revolutions to turn to fully secure all of this is via a potentiometer attached to the motor drive shaft. This is one of the key settings in "convertible top calibration". Perhaps calibration is out of sync? Although there should be no reason for it to get "out of sync" unless something breaks.
03-19-2024, 07:58 PM
#47
I wouldn't mess with the manual operation drive motor "screw" unless you truly understand what's wrong. Something is preventing the clamshell from fully closing. Forcing it will only make it worse. Keep looking.
The 3 latches that secure the clamshell are driven by the same motor/rack&pinon/bowden cable assembly that move the clamshell. During the last bit of travel during closing, the left and right sliders engage the secondary slider. That slider moves an arm that secures the latches on the left or right side.
The rear center latch is driven by an small bowden cable that is attached directly to the rack&pinon drive. It moves during the last bit of travel.
The way the motor knows how many revolutions to turn to fully secure all of this is via a potentiometer attached to the motor drive shaft. This is one of the key settings in "convertible top calibration". Perhaps calibration is out of sync? Although there should be no reason for it to get "out of sync" unless something breaks.
The 3 latches that secure the clamshell are driven by the same motor/rack&pinon/bowden cable assembly that move the clamshell. During the last bit of travel during closing, the left and right sliders engage the secondary slider. That slider moves an arm that secures the latches on the left or right side.
The rear center latch is driven by an small bowden cable that is attached directly to the rack&pinon drive. It moves during the last bit of travel.
The way the motor knows how many revolutions to turn to fully secure all of this is via a potentiometer attached to the motor drive shaft. This is one of the key settings in "convertible top calibration". Perhaps calibration is out of sync? Although there should be no reason for it to get "out of sync" unless something breaks.
I will keep looking!
Can I pls request that Workshop manual regarding the Pot resistance check and calibration for Clamshell?
I think I should start there.
Also wanted to ask, working on the pot, does it trigger a need to recalibrate the whole top?
Last edited by virtual_law; 03-19-2024 at 08:45 PM.
03-20-2024, 03:59 PM
#48
Three Wheelin'
I'll see if I can find the workshop manual. PM me your email address.
As far as the potentiometer, I was able to remove it, note the position of the clamshell, and carefully mark the potentiometer's position (not turn it.). I reinstalled everything, and put the pot. back with the clamshell in the exact same position. Voila, no recalibration needed. Your mileage may vary.
As far as the potentiometer, I was able to remove it, note the position of the clamshell, and carefully mark the potentiometer's position (not turn it.). I reinstalled everything, and put the pot. back with the clamshell in the exact same position. Voila, no recalibration needed. Your mileage may vary.
