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Losing my mind - 02 Sensors from hell

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Old 08-28-2022, 03:11 PM
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hkovalcik
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Default Losing my mind - 02 Sensors from hell

I cannot get them out. The exhaust needs to come out of the car.

If I remove the headers and the two bolts holding the back boxes, wouldn't the whole exhaust drop out in one piece? Anyone know how much it weighs?

Old 08-28-2022, 03:45 PM
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hkovalcik
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Yep, cracked a head off a manifold bolt... Saw that one coming.

Towing it to the stealership or this shop by my place tomorrow - hands are up...

Last edited by hkovalcik; 08-28-2022 at 04:45 PM.
Old 08-28-2022, 04:47 PM
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Put a torch to it don’t let it cool off too much and see what happens
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Old 08-28-2022, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by NYPOWR4
Put a torch to it don’t let it cool off too much and see what happens
I've done just about anything you can think of to try and get them out. I don't see another option aside from cutting the bungs out and welding new ones in place, which is what they'll probably do.

Also I don't want to drive the car to the shop because I just put new plugs in - worried about them getting fouled. Am I being too "OCD" with that or do you think it's safe to drive? I have really banged up the pre and post cat o2's on bank 1 so they definitely will not work.

Last edited by hkovalcik; 08-28-2022 at 04:51 PM.
Old 08-28-2022, 05:27 PM
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Disconnect both sensors on bank 1 from the wiring loom and drive there. You won't foul the plugs and you won't destroy the cat on bank 1 either.
The ecu will mirror the injector time of bank2 on bank1 and you'll probably get a CEL but nothing gets damaged.
Old 08-28-2022, 06:04 PM
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I have never had a problem getting them out, even 30 years later. Propane torch won't get them hot enough. You need oxyacatylene. Heat the bungs until they are glowing all around and unscrew the sensor. An exhaust shop should be able to do this for you.
Old 08-28-2022, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by hardtailer
Disconnect both sensors on bank 1 from the wiring loom and drive there. You won't foul the plugs and you won't destroy the cat on bank 1 either.
The ecu will mirror the injector time of bank2 on bank1 and you'll probably get a CEL but nothing gets damaged.
bank 2’s precat 02 is dead though. Are you sure?

Originally Posted by theprf
I have never had a problem getting them out, even 30 years later. Propane torch won't get them hot enough. You need oxyacatylene. Heat the bungs until they are glowing all around and unscrew the sensor. An exhaust shop should be able to do this for you.
ah ok - yeah taking it there tomo. I was using a propane torch. went through a can of propane on 1 sensor. Don’t know if it’ll matter though because my 22mm 02 socket rounded out the corners on the nut. Only way I see it happening now is the heat you mention, channel locks and a pipe big enough to fit over the channel locks. Or they cut the bungs out which is what they probably do anyway for time.




Old 08-28-2022, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by hkovalcik
bank 2’s precat 02 is dead though. Are you sure?.
Unplug that as well then.
I am still sure you won't damage anything. It will run open loop and base fuel on the MAF signal and rpm. The engine will still run close enough to stochiometric at part throttle for the cats to not suffer damage (they'll actually work).


Last edited by hardtailer; 08-28-2022 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 08-28-2022, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by hardtailer
Unplug that as well then.
I am still sure you won't damage anything. It will run open loop and base fuel on the MAF signal and rpm. The engine will still run close enough to stochiometric at part throttle for the cats to not suffer damage (they'll actually work).
cool, thanks man. Saved me $125 on the tow.
Old 08-28-2022, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by hkovalcik
ah ok - yeah taking it there tomo. I was using a propane torch. went through a can of propane on 1 sensor. Don’t know if it’ll matter though because my 22mm 02 socket rounded out the corners on the nut. Only way I see it happening now is the heat you mention, channel locks and a pipe big enough to fit over the channel locks. Or they cut the bungs out which is what they probably do anyway for time.
They will heat it with oxyacetylene and use a small pipe wrench, they will come right out.
Old 08-28-2022, 07:42 PM
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Exhaust work is the worst. While all header bolts came out fine on my car, the shop that quoted me some service that required removing the headers said almost 1/2 the time, at least 1 stubborn bolt needs to be drilled out.
Old 08-29-2022, 03:34 AM
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I'd make sure everything gets reassembled with anti-seize to help out future you.
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Old 08-29-2022, 02:21 PM
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Better still, use exhaust studs of a BMW with 8mm studs and the corresponding nuts and you'll never have to drill out any header bolts again
BMW Exhaust Manifold Stud - Genuine BMW p/n 11627583110

Copper Exhaust Lock Nut, M8 - 18307620549


Last edited by hardtailer; 08-29-2022 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 08-29-2022, 02:39 PM
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I use a basin wrench, intermittent heat, and lots of PB blaster to get the O2 sensors out. The split O2 sensor sockets always strip out. If you get a decent basin wrench with hardened jaws, you can grunt the sensors out. Get one with a long (telescoping) handle for best results. The harder you pull, the harder the jaws bite...


Last edited by 5CHN3LL; 08-29-2022 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 08-29-2022, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 5CHN3LL
I use a basin wrench, intermittent heat, and lots of PB blaster to get the O2 sensors out. The split O2 sensor sockets always strip out. If you get a decent basin wrench with hardened jaws, you can grunt the sensors out. Get one with a long (telescoping) handle for best results. The harder you pull, the harder the jaws bite...


I put my hands up last night, 5CHN3LL. Car's at the exhaust shop as we speak. I've worked with these guys a few times in the past and they do a nice job. I told him to give a go at the trans fill plug too as I stripped that out. I did tell him not to drill it out.

If they can't get it maybe I'll tell them about this. Don't want to tell a mechanic what to do though. A fine balancing act there.
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