168glhs1986

3/98 build, 6 speed, currently mint condition, lol.

Ok so the white car is going to be going through some changes. I drive Sammy pretty much everyday so this makes perfect sense for a intro into 911 / track / my son.

So far I have the following installed:

GT3 Buckets

The car is stock otherwise and I have the following parts ready for install:

Skips AOS
Ohlins R/T coilovers
X51 oil pan
Rennline Shifter
New Shifter Cables

Need a roll bar so I can add some harnesses. I dont want to use the factory tequipment bar, I have that in Sammy.

Any recommendations on a cool X brace style roll bar that bolts in? GMG Roll bar?

Any other "needed" mod recommendations for a beginner for safety of him and the car?

So just remember this is a kid so he won't be pulling major G forces just yet.

Oh and please refrain from the usual....you're letting your 17 year old skid pad and autocross your 911?

Or this one....geez, nothing says entitlement like a 17 year old kid using a 911. Buy a Miata

or another one of my favorites: 911 isn't the easiest to learn on, get a Miata

RngTrtl

definitely get a miata.

hatchetf15

OP - Pagid RS 29 yellow front/RS 14 black rear or PFC 08s historic faves. 996 pads are ridiculously easy to change. Slotted rotors. BK makes a basic harness bar. Titan sells a reasonably priced full X bar.

hatchetf15

OP has plenty of “spares”.

GC996

Couple things to consider if you haven't already.

1. make sure the UAOS is the track version so you have the drainback and can run 1 qt extra oil.
2. Along with X51, make sure to run the 2 qt deep sump. Extra oil will help with oil pressure instability, starvation and cooling.
3. Agree with Hatchet on Pagid Yellows and slotted rotors.
4. Alot of good roll bar options available. It does stiffen up the chassis and helps. When the kids outgrew the back seat, I went with a Heigo roll cage with removable center bars so I could fit my golf clubs in the back. I went thru FVD and had them walk me thru the options available and settled on Heigo. It's been great. Nice to know I can use the back if I want to. But never did.
5. Tires are critical, what are you thinking about running?

yoonietang

What does "skid pad" mean on the C2 in your sig?

TheChunkNorris

I think there’s a Teq cage for sale in the classifieds.

De Jeeper

I use a DAS roll bar in my car. its pretty easy to install.

ill second the pagid yellow or similar pads. Also fresh castrol srf or endless 650 brake fluid.

theprf

Brake pads, 997 GT3 front brake ducts, brake fluid, change the gearbox fluid regularly, as much negative camber as you can get up front (don't be shy about this, -3.5* is a good start), oil temperature gauge, spare engine.

pdxmotorhead

Since I've never met your son,, this is painting with a wide brush....
As someone who spent a ton of years supporting rental race cars for new drivers.. IMHO a Porsche is a horrible teaching car. Same as a Mustang or a Corvette or any V8 car really.
They don't teach driving skills, they teach throttle skills unfortunately.. Not that you cant learn in a porsche but you don't learn the finesse of being fast.

Miata is a way way better learning car. It is tolerant of small errors, or at least goes off track way slower.. And they are way more repairable than a 911.
If you shop around you can find a basic spec Miata thats may not be a lead car but it gives the training and they can be had for less than tires and fuel for a 911 if you do a lot of track days a year.
It's less to run cost wise for a whole summer than a set of tires on the Porsche. A early Rx7 is another great teaching car but they are disappearing these days.
Any rear wheel drive car with < 150 HP is a good starter car.

Everyone should start on a momentum car and work up to a power car, it teaches better skills and makes you THINK..
Spec racer ford rentals are super common and are another car that teaches track awareness and car control and are extremely safe..

If there are racing aspirations,, Best option,, start on dirt and run a midget or a spec sprint car for a season, then go pavement. Learning to radically slide a car under control is a priceless skill and dirt teaches it so much faster than pavement. .

De Jeeper

Its like everyone on rennlist has stock in mazda .

Yes its cheaper, slower and easier to repair but its not the car he has.

I see 16 fo 18 yr/olds driving their parents caymans and 911s all the time at pca's and they do fine.

Plus its not like r cars r rocket ships... a mk1 is around 260 rhp and a mk2 is maybe 290 rhp st 3.1k lbs. 0.0839 hp/lb (3.4l)

An nc miata is around 2400lbs and probably 150 rhp. 0.0625 hp/lb

2015 mustang 5.0l is 3700lbs and 380rhp. 0.103 hp/lb

playswithcars

Since you say you are concerned with your son's safety, please consider whether the car will be driven on public roads in normal traffic. Unless it's a dedicated track car, be careful about mixing in race safety systems (rigid bucket, 5- point harness, roll cage,etc) with public road safety systems (3-point belts, collapsible seat, airbags). The following linked article is a real eye opener as to the potential dangers of doing that. Other than that, I couldn't think of a better father-son bonding experience!
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/201...-safety-facts/

4Driver4

Another vote for Miata. Not a stock owner, but a do track an NB and daily an NC1. I love my 911s, but the Miata is a far better learning tool, and consumables are insanely cheap.

GC996

Yeah, it's a progression with safety equipment, especially in how you integrate the safety equipment with the standard street-car safety mechanisms. I still use my seat belts on the street as well as still have my airbags even though I have GT3 seats, a roll cage in the back and 6-point harness. But this seems to be standard operating procedure for most street/track guys. Nothing to worry about on the street with negating any safety functionality.

But you do take on "street-safety-risk" as you replace OEM parts. Probably the biggest risk you run is removing your oem steering wheel which includes an airbag and replacing it with an aftermarket one that doesn't have one. Same can be said for gutting your interior and removing the side airbags. While some will do this, most don't do it. Another risk is replacing your roof, frunk lid and engine lid with carbon fiber. Carbon fiber is a very fast burning material. You get into an accident and they catch fire, you will be roasted very quickly within minutes if you are delayed in some way getting out of your car. If you do replace these parts with carbon fiber parts, it would be advised to get the best damn fire extinguishing system you can that will go off if you can't push the button. Happened to a buddy of mine in a street accident and his 911 was a burnt skeleton within a few min. This changed my mind on adding a carbon fiber roof, trunk and lid. Lastly, a fixed seat and a full cage has its own set of issues that protect you on the track but can be a nightmare on the street.

With all this being said, you can set your car up for joint street and track safety and should. Just like everyone should try tracking your car a few times. You will develop great appreciation for the art of driving and most importantly, the beauty of a 996 on the track. IMHO, tracking your 996 is number one on the list of the 8 wonders of the world.

I think it is pretty cool that Mike is doing this with his son.

zbomb

If I were in your shoes, this is what I would do - I would also, at least for my boy, have this be a track only car. For a track car, it will be mild (still can hurt or kill though) - for a road car, it would be too much with too much temptation.

DTC60 pads
Sebro slotted rotors
SRF Fluid
GT3 Master
GT3 Barke ducts
240 TW Tire
Bucket seat W/Harness, HANS
Roll bar
Aim data system with steering position sensor, brake pressure, TPS, oil pressure, oil temp
TPMS Sensors
Comm system
Full fire system (I would have one activation switch in reach of driver and one in reach of me passenger with a 3rd on the cowl)
Master kill switch (I would have one activation switch in reach of driver and one in reach of me passenger with a 3rd on the cowl)
I would gut the car, if its a track car, it does not need an interior and all the stuff is just more stuff to burn. Get everything out that can distract from the process of driving, keep only what's needed to drive the car.

If there was ANY difficulty getting out of the car quickly with the stock steering wheel in, I would put a removable in.

I would get him used to maintaining and checking over the car. After each event a nut and bolt check, flush the fluid out of the calipers and replace whole system with with fresh every 8-10HRS, engine and gearbox service.

Putting Ohlins in right off rip is dumb IMO, sell them and you can afford a good chunk of my list with the money. I would run the stock suspension for a while and have him focus on how the weight transition of the car directly affects how the car responds to driver input, it will be easier to feel with a softer spring. The 240 TW tire will give up the ghost pretty fast if the inputs are not appropriate and hopefully limit the speed of consequences for bad decision somewhat.

I think the key thing if you really want him to learn, not to mention get the most out of your investment if you're funding this whole shindig is putting a data system in the car that will allow him, you and coaches to analyze his progress via review of inputs and not just lap times. This also allows time at the track to be spent in a more finely focussed way because the data that you have reviewed from the comfort of your couch has told you what you need to work on when you're racking up expensive track time.