HK G36C

I have had a 993, 991, but never a 996 C4S. I need advise to look out for issues that are common on these cars. My 993 has issues of its own which ended up costing a ton to fix. My 991 was trouble free! Thank you!

brontosaurus

The best advice would just be to either buy a 1999 C2 or a 996.2 Turbo. C4S has all the weight and nothing you really want. For the money a nice C4S commands, I'd much rather end up in a slightly less nice Turbo and not have to deal with a $15k M96.0 time bomb and having two pointlessly driven front wheels.

pulpo

love my 996 C4S it is my favorite driving car I've ever owned, including other 911s.

Things to look out for are consistent with the other M96 engine cars, so you'll want to check that the IMS bearing has been replaced, or you should do so upon acquiring. The other bogeyman is bore scoring, which you can rule out by scoping the bottom of the cylinders from the sump. A warm weather car with regular oil changes is less likely to have scoring.

Other than that I cannot think of anything. Many of them will have little cosmetic things, like cracked taillights is incredibly common. Black foam coming through the hvac vents. And then there are the things going out with age, like the window regulators will likely be busted. Water pump and thermostat replacement seem to be a common preventative maintenance item, and many people upgrade the AOS to the UAOS. The problems are all well known and documented and most have an easy fix.

HK G36C

Thank you! Is there any way to tell whether the IMS bearing has been replaced? Are there any signs to look for? Thank you! The car has been in the PNW for all of its life and maintained by the dealer.

pulpo

I believe you'd need the engine or trans out to 100% verify if the IMS has been changed. People usually do it when they replace the clutch. If there is no invoice/proof it it being done I'd assume it's original and should be done.

HK G36C

What is the cost of getting the IMS changed?

pulpo

Usually $1500-$3000 depending on labor and if you do the clutch while you're in there.

HK G36C

Thank you! I am getting a PPI and see what turns out, so I need to budget 3k! The car has 58k on her! I remember knowing how to test my clutch in my 993...that was many years ago!

allcool

If you're lucky, might see an extra aftermarket oil line going to the imsb and you'll know...

GC996

Since you will be in the area, consider testing your oil, drop the sump to see what's in there, check the oil filter, and scope the bores as well. If all checks out, next step is imsb, rms, check the clutch and flywheel.

If you are feeling your oats, might as well do the uaos, spark plugs, coils, fuel injectors and the water pump.

Then drive the hell out of it.

parris

Yeah, except for the fact that was the faster NA car of the 996 range (non GT cars) or that was considered by most of the specialized press from the era as "The best 996, second only to the GT3"...

To the OP. Make your due diligence before the buy, as with any used car: ask for maintenance records (the most well taken care, the better) and do a PPI if possible. If everything seems ok, go for it and assume that they are all 20+ years old cars and past reliability does not guarantee future reliability

brontosaurus

IF you're referencing the ring time, that was only due to the upgraded tires that came on the C4S vs C2. All things equal the C2 wins every time. Adding 200lbs and more driven wheels when the car isn't traction limited by power only makes for a slower car.

wdb

FYI to the OP: this is highly opinionated.

C4S 996's are highly sought after and good ones bring a price premium. That doesn't happen if they're bad cars.

mtnroads

Another point of view about the C4S awd. 1. It's the same suspension as the revered Turbo. 2. The added front weight helps balance the rear engine weight bias, yielding superb handling (especially on track). 3. TRACTION in all situations.

mtnroads

I forgot to mention - 4. The best butt of all 996s!