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thought I'd do a simple weekend project and try to see the issue with my saggy driver seat and then in the process stripped one of the bolt heads. It must've been installed by a giant. yes using an e12 socket.
I don't think there's anything I can do to get that one out really worried I'm going to have to drill it out now. the torx head is twisted. tried an impact driver too hoping it would at least loosen it a tad. then the breaker bar I guess was too much for it
I also had an extension on it at one point and my own force snapped the extension head off in the socket (granted cheap ext apparently). Friend is going to bring an impact gun. I'll try sacrificing a smaller socket, good idea.
Ah, here is one more potential trick. Since the head is already a mess, you may find you can use a regular 10mm or 11mm socket on it. Some idiot used a regular socket on a T12 and wrecked it, but the regular socket worked.
Try a 12 point socket as it will have more bite points, then use the shortest extension possible, as you extend the length of the extension it will reduce the torque applied, i would also try a penetrant over night.. as well.
you might also try to hand tighten the head very slightly to break the seal so to speak.
another trick i used is a heat gun, then cool heat gun then cool repeatedly.
hot cold hot cold..
i know this all seems too fussy, not as fussy as drilling and tapping and or picking out the threads with a pick..
The job maybe done already but……. That socket appears to have reliefs or taper (for the lack of better words).If you were to grind or cut that socket back you might have more contact ‘patch’.
The job maybe done already but……. That socket appears to have reliefs or taper (for the lack of better words).If you were to grind or cut that socket back you might have more contact ‘patch’.
I didn't notice that, your correct that was likely a factor... the other one being it is very very tight.. I had service work done which required removing the passenger seat, later when i came to remove the seat myself one of the bolts was pretty rounded, i got it out but immediately ordered new bolts from suncoast or it might have been porsche atlanta they came in a couple days and were just a few bucks i then replaced the worn one...
I didn't notice that, your correct that was likely a factor... the other one being it is very very tight.. I had service work done which required removing the passenger seat, later when i came to remove the seat myself one of the bolts was pretty rounded, i got it out but immediately ordered new bolts from suncoast or it might have been porsche atlanta they came in a couple days and were just a few bucks i then replaced the worn one...
If the individual removing or tightening those bolts isn’t concentrating (or as someone else said, was using a long extension at an angle) the heads are easily damaged.
I dislike the bolts immensely, so I use fastener **** :
Grade 8.8, Xylan coated, M10 flanged bolts of the same length as OE.
They look more “factory” than the factory items, and you’ll never have issues getting them undone or torqued up.
The deed is in fact not done. I'm about to go try to work on it again. Though I'm not sure what good it'll do. I've tried hammering on a sacrafical socket, and while it does go on there, it still doesn't budge, and eventually slips off.
And to think this was the 'easy' job before i was about to start the water pump replacement project... eish
I’ve measured the head of an OE seat mount bolt , and it should allow the smallest bolt removing socket to grip.
Failing that, I’d get a brand new centre punch with a good sharp tip, and use it on the flange of the bolt to either shock or loosen the bolt.
Sorry to say, but as an ex Airforce mech/tech but there is an art to removing stubborn bolts and studs, i learned my techniques on 40 year old gas turbine engines where we stripped them down for refurbishment, each stud had been heat cyckled 1,000 - 2,000 times, of the 40 or 50 we removed from the hot side we were lucky if we could get 80-90 % out then it was drilling and using an easy out (not easy) penetrant included, that technique carefully used would usually work, but it was always touch and go on one or two, then we would drill out the stud and pick the threads out with a scriber, when we contacted the manufacturer of the engine, they simply said "oh we use a spark eroder" takes 5 minutes per stud..
recently i had to remove a bicycle pedal on a pretty nice road bike, steel pedal shaft in an aluminum alloy crank, it took days of heat cycles and penetrant, i am pretty sure it had been red loctite affixed, i was at the point of giving up after a week, i thought well one last try, heated it up with a heat gun, applied the full monty with a long bar extension, an almighty CRACK!!! my wife said oh no the wrench broke... i was of the same mind, then as i pick up the pieces and realized the socket wrench was in tact, i gently tried the bolt and it had come free... i couldn't believe it.. i can only suggest watch lots of you tube videos to try a few techniques..
Sorry to say, but as an ex Airforce mech/tech but there is an art to removing stubborn bolts and studs, i learned my techniques on 40 year old gas turbine engines where we stripped them down for refurbishment, each stud had been heat cyckled 1,000 - 2,000 times, of the 40 or 50 we removed from the hot side we were lucky if we could get 80-90 % out then it was drilling and using an easy out (not easy) penetrant included, that technique carefully used would usually work, but it was always touch and go on one or two, then we would drill out the stud and pick the threads out with a scriber, when we contacted the manufacturer of the engine, they simply said "oh we use a spark eroder" takes 5 minutes per stud..
recently i had to remove a bicycle pedal on a pretty nice road bike, steel pedal shaft in an aluminum alloy crank, it took days of heat cycles and penetrant, i am pretty sure it had been red loctite affixed, i was at the point of giving up after a week, i thought well one last try, heated it up with a heat gun, applied the full monty with a long bar extension, an almighty CRACK!!! my wife said oh no the wrench broke... i was of the same mind, then as i pick up the pieces and realized the socket wrench was in tact, i gently tried the bolt and it had come free... i couldn't believe it.. i can only suggest watch lots of you tube videos to try a few techniques..
The main problem is limited space. I want to use a torch, but it'll destroy the seat rail and carpet around it. The torx threads are totally destroyed at this point. I'm so frustrated. I think my only options are to JB Weld on a 3/8" socket and hope to hell I can get the bolt out, otherwise I then have a socket stuck on a bolt and won't be able to move my seat back.
10-22-2023, 03:32 PM
Stripped a seat bolt :(
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