GC996

The FVD sump is only a 0.5. It's suboptimal unless you are only autocrossing the car. You need 1.5 qts more oil. You are putting your engine at risk.

Sure your brand new OEM AOS may be in fine working order. That's not the issue. The issue is twofold.

(1) the factory AOS cannot handle running "full" oil. So you have to run 0.5 qts less oil which means you are suboptimzed even before you get on the track.

(2) the factory AOS CANNOT process the oil under Gs on the track due to its inability to separate and then drain the oil back into the sump.

Why do you think Porsche came out with the Porsche Motosports AOS?

Vect

Don't get me wrong, I believe most of what is said on this thread. However I am trying to assess what is really necessary to participate at a 30 min track session. With my old e46 / e92 I never heard of so many mods needed. Yet here with the 996 there is always something.

GC996

No worries. You can do what you feel is best. I'm just giving you a historical perspective on the issues and solution from what was done on the track with the M96 engine to keep it running and why. This issues and solutions are ongoing today and are continually being enhanced with the development of new solutions every race and HPDE season.

IMHO, you are putting your expensive new rebuild at risk if you dont protect it from hydralock and oil starvation for a couple of thousand dollars in parts. The faster you get, the more Gs you pull. The more Gs, the more risk.

Then BOOM.

plpete84

I'd listen to GC, Zbomb, Skip and few other folks. These guys have put in substantial time in at the track with their cars and are speaking from experience. A flat six platform that is not a mezger has it's share of issues when pushing to the max and can't be compared to other engines. I'd do the UAOS track version and do a max oil fill at the minimum if you want to avoid a 2nd engine rebuild.

Vect

I need to sleep on this, but you have all convinced me of trading my 2 996s for a turbo

hbdunn

Are you using any data logging to see oil temp and pressure?
The .1 dipstick is shorter so the same thing can be achieved using a .2 and over filling. If you do this you will get the occasional big white puff on the track. I experienced this in my .1 three years ago and moved to skips uaos with excellent results. Probably close to 50 track days.

GC996

Why take the loss when you have a brand new rebuilt engine in an exceptional car? All you need to do is add a couple of parts that you are missing and you have solved for the well documented and known risks that we have all been discussing and managing for 20+ years.

The M96 is an extremely durable engine if you add the right parts and procedures. The problem is most folks don't. You are starting with a clean slate with a new rebuild. Why not do it right going forward. It's pretty easy with adding 2 parts. WDB gave you a link for one of the two parts in a previous post.

Mike Murphy

Well, you can’t go wrong, but drive it to make sure. Turbos handle differently.

Mike Murphy

I have a buddy who spent 5 figures sorting his E46 M3, versus my car, which is bone stock. A data point of one or two is not helpful.

Overall, these are both German cars, and they are both hit or miss, but the 911 is considered generally one of the most reliable car models.

GC996

Yeah, I don't loose any sleep over the M96. All issues are well documented and every issue has a preventative solution that's cost effective and easy to implement.

With a properly rebuilt engine and the proper bolt on parts, i would sleep like a baby with a smile on my face, dreaming about how i can shave a couple of seconds a lap off my times. Followed by where I would take my wife out to dinner in my 996 after the track day.

They are durable cars if you want them to be.

Vect

Already have an X50 slick top with Aero and I love it 😻

Vect

I agree with you 100%, personally I think the m96/97 platforms are great. For one they allow for nearly anyone to get into the hobby.

I love the sound the character and all. What I personally need to think about is simply does one turbo with dry sump, more power etc answer more what I need it to be on the track and that’s all.

GC996

I guess it all depends on what you got out of your rebuild and how good of a driver you are. Did you get any performamce enhancement?

The best advice I ever got early on was to learn to drive an underpowered car without nannies to develop the skills to balance the car around the track. To put it another way, the more horsepower and nannies your car has, the easier it is to get great laptimes, but the less you learn how to drive.

If it was my 996 with a freshly rebuilt engine, i would add the UAOS and 2qt deep sump, LSD if you don't already have one, add a great set of coilovers and sway bar, a floating hat big brake kit like the Brembo GT or the next best case the Girodisc 2 piece system, and then learn to drive the car fast with balance and under control.

In a few years, you may decide that you want a full time dedicated track car and then pick up a 996 or 997 Cup.

Tracking your car and learning to become a great driver is a process over time. Anybody can get a brand new GT4 and drive fast around the track. I watch them every track day. But a subset can actually drive.

theprf

I love my 6TT on track. I removed the awd, unplugged the psm, put on an awesome set of coilovers and it's a fantastic machine. It cannot be overheated and the oil temperature and pressure are perfect. They are no longer cheap to buy and prices continue to increase so "devaluing" one with track driving might not be the best financial plan.

JP_Gervs

Incredibly informative thread that’s not 100+ pages long (yet), therefore nice and easy to read and comprehend. Thankful for all you RL’ers that put in the time to educate the rest of us.

I also vote for prepping your C2 over going to a TT. (Like you’re not going to mod the turbo anyway? Lol)

NB + NA + RWD =