CosmosC4S

Some really strange things happened today.
Started my car after 5 days, car started on first crank, no problems.
Drove for about 15 mins, got a PSM failure light, followed by ABS light.
Then, came battery/generator light,
Few minutes later, the airbag light joined in,
Next it said Brake distribution error?
Tiptronic warning, then it was in limp mode (4th gear)
Finally, the rear spoiler fault light came on.

Got home, put it in reverse, and the car stalled.
Won't start again, the normal rapid click click click sound.
Jump started it...engine ran fine...let it idle for a few minutes,
idling got sluggish, no power when stepped on the gas, and finally engine stalled.
Voltmeter was showing minimum at the bottom.

Tried starting again, this time there is silence, not even a click.


I suspect it's a dead battery, no idea how old the battery is.
Car is a 02, and the battery doesn't look OEM, so must have been replaced sometime. I bought the car a year ago. Never had any starting problems or warning signs.

I plan to go look for a new battery tomorrow. No big deal.
The Big Question is, are all those electrical phenomenon described above normal for a battery going bad and about to die???

Or am I looking at an alternator replacement too?

Thanks guys!

Tippy

I bet it is the alternator, the battery is probably good.

Jump it again, if it reads 13 volts at a slight rev, the alternator is probably fine.

If the gauge reads below 12 at idle but raises over 12 once revved, the battery may of lost a cell and needs replacing if you have ruled out it will not hold a charge.

The fact you were driving and all the gremlins happened points to the alternator, even if the battery KO'd, the alternator should carry everything electrical.

carbonfiber

I also agree that it sounds like an alternator. Once running the car should have enough voltage from the alternator to run itself without those electrical problems. It sounds like the alternator stopped charging and you ran the battery completely out. If you jump it without recharging the battery then it won't be long before the electrical problems show up again as the alternator is not attemping to recharge. Replacing the battery may seem like the fix at first but eventually you will run the charge out of that battery as well. Put a batter charger on the car overnight to give the battery a good full charge, then hook a voltage meter accross the battery and start the car while watching the volts. The volts will dip down as you start the car and come back to 12 volts or more. If you raise the rpm's you should see about 13 to 14 volts. My guess is you will only see battery volts (12 to 12.5).
JIM

99firehawk

is the belt still there?

HHPorscheTech

Yep if the belt is still there take a simple volt meter with the car running and check the output of the alternator at the battery ...if it is below 13.5v then the alternator is the culprit. That is just a simple easy test. Also, look at the battery terminals the date is stamped into it. should read something like this 65/02 which is the 65th week of 2002

CosmosC4S

99firehawk, Yes, the belt is still there! LOL!

HHPorscheTech, Can I use a multimeter? I assume that is a volt meter?
Will the dash gauge in the car tell me anything?

One question: If the battery is bad, is it true that the alternator will not be able to put any power thru' to the car's components with the bad battery connected? But if the bad battery is removed, the alternator will work the car, however, I know it's not recommended as the battery is not there to buffer the output.

99firehawk

check the voltage at the battery with the car running if your udner 13.5 you need a alternator

CosmosC4S

Right now, I'm rapid-charging the battery on the car. I'm trying not to jump start it unnecessarily.
99FHawk, I will try out the test once the battery is good to start the car.
Or, if it won't charge, then I know it's a bad battery.

CosmosC4S

Well, the battery charged fully, and I could start the car. But it still shows only around 12V on the gauge. And the CEL and battery/generator light is on.

I am waiting at this moment, for a flatbed to come and pick up the car to get it to my mechanic.
My mechanic is about 35miles away, so I don't think I can get there running on the battery alone.
I'll follow up and let you'all know the verdict. Most likely it's the alternator.

Oh, and as if that was not stressful enough, last night I backed my opened door up into the side of the garage door/pillar. The top edge and inside of the door is slightly buckled! How stupid of me, I was so mad the whole night. That's probably gonna cost me another $1k to get the door fixed, just coz' of a careless mistake. Can someone please slap me good?

heelix

Another gotcha is you might have issues unlocking the fuel cap. All sorts of weird stuff will happen when the alternator/battery goes. Once you get proper voltage to the system, that will unlock just fine. (me bangs head on the wall for trying to fix the fuel release first, then finding out I needed a jump)

Einstein

tst alt. clk here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2034953/11

dont pcars have a stock vm gauge?

99firehawk

if the altneranotr light is on you need a new one 99% of the time

gota911

Oh ****, that sucks! Man, I am really sorry to hear about the door! If I lived near you, I would come over and slap you good!

No, no, that's OK... you don't have to thank me... that's just the kind of guy I am! Anything to help out a fellow Rennlister!

Ken - I am not trying to make fun of your situation, bcause I know how I feel when I do something like that! I just didn't know what to say other than "oh ****." I thought maybe I could get you to laugh a little or, at the very least, get you to smile.

CosmosC4S

That's all right, Tim, I did laugh, Thanks! It's been bugging me for 2 days now,
Last night in bed, and when I woke up this morning in bed, Just wishing there was an "UNDO" button in real life.
Still can't believe I did that ****! Me of all people, always cautious and all.


Can't see much detail in these pics.
Doesn't look that bad in the pics, but I think it IS actually quite bad when it comes to restoring the damage to perfection.
It's a good thing though that the gaps around the door are all good and intact,
except the 12in or so along the top edge by the handle. Hinges must be pretty sturdy.

It really sucks just to think that they would have to remove the inside door leather panel,
and maybe the electronics, airbag, etc. I do not believe it will be reinstalled correctly, and I'd probably get rattles and creaks and visible gaps on the trim. And the thought of spray dust all over the interior!
Can't help it, my last paintjob in another car, was a nightmare.










My deductible for my insurance is $500. I'm thinking if I should make a claim, this would be my first claim ever!
Would anyone know how much it will affect my premium next renewal?
Is it worth making a claim? I'm now paying about $945 for 3 vehicles for 6 months (the Porsche alone is only $394).

CosmosC4S

You are Correct Sir,
my mechanic ran some tests right away as soon as the car was dropped off late this afternoon,
so he could order whatever parts for tomorrow. Talked to him on the phone and he confirmed it's the alternator.
The rebuilt Bosch alternator will be $320 with next day shipping, and he's charging me 3hrs labor ($275)!?
Oh well...I won't complain, he usually takes me in without an appointment and this time as well,
I just called him and told him I needed to tow the car in. Not really an emergency,
but he's kind enough to take care of a customer, and he IS busy.
I DO NOT believe the Porsche dealer here will do this for me.
NO...the last time I called to make an appointment, they told me I had to wait 2 weeks.

Here's a shot of the car being taken away...
the only consolation I have is that "Even though it's Fallen, it's still looking so Valiant on the stretcher!"
Just like a wounded warrior leaving the battlefield in Pride, and I could almost hear it say, "I Will Be Back!"