Tippy

I never have actually have done the work but I had a Porsche Tech tell me about this. He said if you put fluid in the resevoir and it leaks out, it is more than likely the hose that supplies the pump has popped off the nipple. Their fix is to simply put a zip tie around the hose, very common problem they say. To get to it, you have to remove the drivers side fender well.

I sold mine before I tried it.

kurtp

Thanks Cory,

Is this covered in the service manual? It sounds time consuming. Did you tech friend say it was simple?

Thanks.

kurt

kurtp

Thanks all.

I purchased fateners to RnR the fender well, but never got that far. After being totally impressed with the modularity of the headlights, I noticed the nozzle/recepticle connection and thought I would simply try to install the headlight more carefully. This worked, there are no leaks and it all functions well now. The last owner must have had one headlight removed for some reason and didn't have it installed so the nozzle and recepticle lined up. I don't know how this is possible, as it would seem to cause ofher fit problems and such, but that is what I did.

Thanks to all for your help.

I was very impressed by the headlight system. What a great company to be an engineer for.

Kurt

cdodkin

Yep - they are rather cool!

Just make sure you lock them back in place fully before you drive - otherwise they will shoot out (in a James Bond Missile style) next time you brake hard for the lights!!!!

kurtp

I couldn't tell you how many times I have driven around the block to see if I had closed my garage door again, only to find that it was closed. I will do the same with the Porsche.

Thanks.

Kurt

kurtp

I was surprised that there doesn't seem to be a fully locked position for these headlights, in that there is no absolute position that tells me that they are tightened enough. Also was surprising to me that there was no secondary catch that would keep the lights from ejecting if they weren't completely secure. Or, am I missing something?

Thanks.

Kurt

Tippy

Yes, he said pull some of the rivets and peel the liner back enough to access the tank. I dont think you have to remove the whole liner but I am not 100% sure. To pull the rivets, I used a needle nose pliers on the backside of the head and pulled away from the rivet, then the rivets just pop out. I would pull as many as it takes until the tank is visible along with the lines.

cdodkin

It's more of a cam that snaps into place, rather than a screw-tight fitment

You hear a definite clunk as you turn the locking cam with the Porsche tool provided - then you know it's in and locked.

Laura

There are some small grommets/gaskets that rot away and cause leaks. I believe there are two that cause the most problems. Access to the this area is thru the wheel area, remove the liners.

spender

Well, how about this for resurrecting a 3-year-old thread? But it's right on point.

I believe I've got this leak, went in yesterday to try to find it but couldn't figure out which hose people were referring to. I didn't remove my wheel so I couldn't get a super good look, though.

Is this the one (circled in red) that I should be checking connectivity on, and possibly putting a zip-tie on?



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spender

Ok, not getting much traction on this thread, maybe if I add some pictures. Basically, I'm trying to visualize where the leak on my washer tank could be coming from. Here's some pictures from the bay, I assume that it's the piece on the lower left that has all the hose connections that can drip:



Or, on this picture, the parts to the right:



This may win the "Captain Obvious" award, but I really can't see much of anything back there - and I don't really want to spend $200 at the mechanics if it's just a hose that needs to be tied down better.