Edit: Exactly how should the gas pedal (BE REMOVED?!) feel?
10-04-2007, 11:41 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
OK gang, I had great success! The key to getting the pedal out it, like Waynesworld said, it to pull the top of the pedal away from the bulkhead about 1/2 an inch. There's even a nice little "handle" on the top of the pedal for this (about the size of a cell phone antenna). There is a round "boss" that locks the pedal into the sheet metal, so by pulling the top away, this boss clears the metal and the pedal just slides right up.
The pictures below outline what I did to take it apart, disconnect the cable, clean the moving parts (which I did with some Q-tips, then used a very small amount of Krytox teflon grease) and reassemble it.
I also discovered the cause of the "side-to-side" play and used a little screw wedged in just the right place to eliminate it.
The metal shaft where the cable cam pivots was the primary area of "contamination". A bit of grit came out of there!
Now that pedal feels smooth as can be! And I spent about an hour on it.
Oh, one more thing to note: As Michael said, getting the screw to line up when you put the pedal back can cause some head scratching and cursing. I tried several times, but that screw just wouldn't line up... Then I realized, that locking boss, which I mentioned earlier, wasn't sitting in its hole. I pushed the pedal down firmly then pushed it AGAINST the bulkhead, the boss popped into place, and then it was lined up perfectly and the screw went right in!
The pictures below outline what I did to take it apart, disconnect the cable, clean the moving parts (which I did with some Q-tips, then used a very small amount of Krytox teflon grease) and reassemble it.
I also discovered the cause of the "side-to-side" play and used a little screw wedged in just the right place to eliminate it.
The metal shaft where the cable cam pivots was the primary area of "contamination". A bit of grit came out of there!
Now that pedal feels smooth as can be! And I spent about an hour on it.
Oh, one more thing to note: As Michael said, getting the screw to line up when you put the pedal back can cause some head scratching and cursing. I tried several times, but that screw just wouldn't line up... Then I realized, that locking boss, which I mentioned earlier, wasn't sitting in its hole. I pushed the pedal down firmly then pushed it AGAINST the bulkhead, the boss popped into place, and then it was lined up perfectly and the screw went right in!
10-07-2007, 11:46 PM
#20
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Notchy pedal
Yeah, I have owned my 996 for 2 weeks and it has this problem. I've had it repaired by the dealer for a smooth $500 and change. I had it listed on the contract when I bought it, so hopefully the used dealer I got it from is going to foot the bill. The entire gas pedal assembly has been replaced. Cost of the part is $332 according to the dealer. What a joke!
BMW calls it a "notchy" pedal and they have a TSB on it. I had to have it repaired on my 2002 330i as well. It will drive you crazy to drive a car with that problem!
BMW calls it a "notchy" pedal and they have a TSB on it. I had to have it repaired on my 2002 330i as well. It will drive you crazy to drive a car with that problem!
10-08-2007, 11:10 AM
#21
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Thread Starter
Yeah, I have owned my 996 for 2 weeks and it has this problem. I've had it repaired by the dealer for a smooth $500 and change. I had it listed on the contract when I bought it, so hopefully the used dealer I got it from is going to foot the bill. The entire gas pedal assembly has been replaced. Cost of the part is $332 according to the dealer. What a joke!
Bring it over, I'll do it for only $250!
02-25-2009, 02:42 PM
#24
Now that I've had a chance to really drive it, it is a startlingly amazing difference. I suspect some of those who have issues stalling their cars might benefit greatly from this. It's an order of magnitude easier to be smoother with the clutch when the accelerator pedal does what you tell it to do. Thanks again!
02-25-2009, 07:42 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Excellent write up with hi-res pictures too, great, thanks Man... a definite keeper for future reference as I am sure mine will exhibit this problem over time and added mileage.
02-25-2009, 10:58 PM
#27
FWIW, my problem dirt was in a different place. Mine was in the hinge at the base of the pedal. There was a ton of gunk in there. The bar where the cable pulley thing pivots was clean and smooth.
02-26-2009, 06:40 AM
#28
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Great write up. Well done.
But I am now confused about the cable and e-gas throttle systems on the '99 Carreras. I thought all of the '99 C2s were fitted with cable throttle while the C4s had e-gas. Yet Van's car is a C4 and has a cable throttle? What gives?
...Rickker
But I am now confused about the cable and e-gas throttle systems on the '99 Carreras. I thought all of the '99 C2s were fitted with cable throttle while the C4s had e-gas. Yet Van's car is a C4 and has a cable throttle? What gives?
...Rickker
02-26-2009, 07:20 AM
#29
Based on reading up on things prior to doing this, the difference between the two is where the cable attached to the pedal goes. With egas it is a short cable that goes to a potentiometer. With a cable throttle it is a long cable that goes probably all the way to the throttle body, but to be honest I didn't pay any attention to that because mine is egas. 
02-26-2009, 08:15 AM
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, the egas cars have a cable that's about 12" long and goes to a sensor (potentiometer) under the dash. I believe that the C2 has the cable coming off the bottom of the pedal assembly and it runs next to the center tunnel all the way to the engine.