Driving a 996 on ice, slush or snow hard?
#32
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I would have to say you are wrong on the Blizzak comment. I have the 11" wide turbo wheels on my porsche and have run a few tire options
A Bridgestone Blizzack in a 265 width, a Pirelli Sottozero in a 265 and 295 width, a Dunlop Wintersport 3D in a 265 and 285, and lastly Michelin Pilot Alpin PA2 in a 265 width. Out of all of these I prefer the Dunlop Wintersport 3D's in the 285 with.
The reason I say this is because I found the Blizzak's to me a little to mushy in dry conditions when you want to have fun with the car.
A Bridgestone Blizzack in a 265 width, a Pirelli Sottozero in a 265 and 295 width, a Dunlop Wintersport 3D in a 265 and 285, and lastly Michelin Pilot Alpin PA2 in a 265 width. Out of all of these I prefer the Dunlop Wintersport 3D's in the 285 with.
The reason I say this is because I found the Blizzak's to me a little to mushy in dry conditions when you want to have fun with the car.
I should have been more specific. These were the only 275's I could find. I've run 265's in the past but didn't like the way they fit on 11" wheels. Since both of my sets of wheels are 11" rears and I don't want to go through the hassle of selling one set and buying a set with 10" rears, I decided to put on 275's. I had previously run 275's on the Dunlop Wintersports but they apparently are no longer available.
#33
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A question to most is do you want to look good or drive better / safer in the Winter?
#34
Cardigan Millionaire
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I should have been more specific. These were the only 275's I could find. I've run 265's in the past but didn't like the way they fit on 11" wheels. Since both of my sets of wheels are 11" rears and I don't want to go through the hassle of selling one set and buying a set with 10" rears, I decided to put on 275's. I had previously run 275's on the Dunlop Wintersports but they apparently are no longer available.
I know that a narrower tire gives you better traction in the snow/ice but I much prefer the feel of the 285 to the 265 width and find I am not actually sacrificing a huge amount in traction by the little bit of additional width.
#35
Rocky Mountain High
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Porsche recommends dropping to a 10-inch rear wheel for the C4S/turbo and running a 265 width tire. That's what I do, and it works well.
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#37
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#38
True for snow. But I think a lot of people read that as true for winter, which it isn't. If, like me, your winter driving is largely urban and more about ice, moisture and cold pavement surface temps, taller, narrower tires are unnecessarily sacrificing safety and performance for no benefit. In those circumstances, you're better off with a winter performance tire in stock widths. It's gotta be about the right tool for the job.
#40
Drifting
The last 2 New England storms we had (including yesterday) I drove my C4S with the factory snow set-up. It was great, and I was making it up inclines that other cars couldn't.
One thing I noticed was this left to right pulling, almost like a floating feeling at 30-40 mph. I am sure the snow/slush had alot to do with it, but was that feeling the AWD system engaging and compensating for wheel slip?
One thing I noticed was this left to right pulling, almost like a floating feeling at 30-40 mph. I am sure the snow/slush had alot to do with it, but was that feeling the AWD system engaging and compensating for wheel slip?
#41
The last 2 New England storms we had (including yesterday) I drove my C4S with the factory snow set-up. It was great, and I was making it up inclines that other cars couldn't.
One thing I noticed was this left to right pulling, almost like a floating feeling at 30-40 mph. I am sure the snow/slush had alot to do with it, but was that feeling the AWD system engaging and compensating for wheel slip?
One thing I noticed was this left to right pulling, almost like a floating feeling at 30-40 mph. I am sure the snow/slush had alot to do with it, but was that feeling the AWD system engaging and compensating for wheel slip?
#42
Drifting
No PSM lights were going on. Maybe just the snow. The wheel/tire combo 225/265 is pretty wide for snows, so I bet there was some natural float going on. Once I got off the Merritt, while going down my road which was covered in snow, I gave it some gas and the PSM kicked in, it really works great and the car seemed very stable. I think I just have to get used to the handling charactoristics.
#43
Ironman 140.6
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#44
So, I am pretty low...
I have been considering the ride-height change. Initially, that was my plan.
IMHO - The primary benefit is related to ice chunks. Having some more clearance would be nice when you are coming up on a 6-8" chunk in the middle of the road. The next benefits would be ruts and deeper snow.
So far, I am not planning on making the ride height change this year. The snow season came late in Denver (still running on the track in November at 50+ degrees). Now, April/May seem so close that I don't feel like paying for 2 alignments in the next few months. Plus, if we get a warm-spell, all I need to do is swap tires for a track day.
~~~
BTW - I am using Blizzak LM-25 tires:
Front: 205/50/17 on 17x7.5
(exact diameter match to stock 25.1")(.5" narrower)
Rear: 255/40/17 on 17x9
(slightly less diameter than stock 25.0" vs 25.3") (1" narrower)
~~~
Regarding the PSS10 and Sway Bar settings...
I have been experimenting quite a bit this year.
First: Sway Bars
So far, I like the H&R (front and rear) set to the softest setting. I tried different combinations, but feel like sway should be as soft as possible. Then leave the oversteer/understeer bias control to the PSS10. (BTW - If I do go for ride-height adjustment next year, I'll probably also go for full sway disconnect)
Next: PSS10
Normal (daily) Setting F=3, R=4
Bias= neutral to slight oversteer on slick conditions.
More fun in an open parking lot with PSM off.
Super slick conditions, pushing the limit of the car (mountain driving, not urban) F=2, R=2
Bias = neutral to slight understeer, safer at higher speeds, less "twitchy"
Plenty of throttle oversteer and throttle-lift oversteer (pitch and catch), but the car is easier to save if it is pushed a little too far.
More notes:
If we have mostly dry weather, I'll tighten up 1 notch F and R, although staying even or slight stiffer bias to rear.
I have run F=1, R=1 and F2,R1 and F1,R2. At the #1 settings the car bounces/rebounds too much over bumps. Kind of a porpoise effect, not good.
I have tried stiffer front settings (i.e. F3,R2), but find the car pushes badly at slow speeds.
For some perspective, here are some of my summer suspension settings:
Sways: Front = middle, Rear=stiffest
Normal Daily: F7,R8
slower, technical track(i.e. High Plains): F9,R10
faster, flowing track (i.e. Laguna Seca): F10,R10
~~~~
A couple more thoughts...
Weight is a big factor as well. Fully loaded down with two people and board/ski gear, etc the car does perform better (in snow/ice) than with just me.
Assuming best possible performance, skinnier/thinner tires are better in snow, snowpacked, slush, however wider tires (up to stock widths) are better on ICE. So, choose your width depending on the typical conditions where you live.
Just like everything else, there is compromise...best on ice is studded, but studded are LAME on dry (loud and slippery), etc.
If you push the car when it is dry, or if you live where it is mostly dry with a few snowy days, stick to stock widths. If you push the skinny, snow tires on dry pavement, they will scare you on a freeway offramp you are used to hitting with your summer tires and simply wear out very quickly.